Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Warrior LED Taillights?

Thread Tools
 
Old Sep 25, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #1  
ferdis's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Mount Cobb, Pennsylvannia
Default Warrior LED Taillights?

Was looking through a magazine yesterday and saw a jk with LED's in the back, the flush mount type. ive seen a few TJ's with em and i love them, a few months ago i backed my jeep into a small pole in a parking lot and it dented my back right quarter panel, so i was looking into getting a set and just covering it over instead of repairing the quarter lol, i love the look and LED's are always nice to have, and the extra armor wouldnt hurt, anyone have em on? suggestions/opinions/pictures would be awesome^^
Reply
Old Sep 25, 2011 | 04:52 PM
  #2  
bbrown626's Avatar
JK Freak
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 723
Likes: 2
From: Murrieta, CA
Default

Originally Posted by ferdis
Was looking through a magazine yesterday and saw a jk with LED's in the back, the flush mount type. ive seen a few TJ's with em and i love them, a few months ago i backed my jeep into a small pole in a parking lot and it dented my back right quarter panel, so i was looking into getting a set and just covering it over instead of repairing the quarter lol, i love the look and LED's are always nice to have, and the extra armor wouldnt hurt, anyone have em on? suggestions/opinions/pictures would be awesome^^
I found some pics on another site that use the press-in round fixtures. Cut a hole in your bumper with a hole saw and stick em in. they are held in place with a rubber grommet.

try googling led tail light jeep
Reply
Old Sep 25, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #3  
wildandwillin's Avatar
JK Jedi
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,022
Likes: 0
From: Copperopolis Ca
Default

Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110608_180835.jpg
Views:	553
Size:	46.4 KB
ID:	215470

you mean like this? EVO rear armor with fenders.
Reply
Old Sep 26, 2011 | 08:23 AM
  #4  
westchester's Avatar
JK Super Freak
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Long Island, NY
Default

Sounds like you're asking about Warrior corners with their LED light kit. The corners are a pain to install, but great once installed. Let me know if you want further details.



Before and After, Left and Right...

Last edited by westchester; Sep 27, 2011 at 04:29 PM.
Reply
Old Sep 26, 2011 | 07:55 PM
  #5  
norice4me66's Avatar
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: sewaren new jersey
Default

This makes me realy want to get them looks great
Reply
Old Sep 27, 2011 | 09:21 AM
  #6  
ferdis's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Mount Cobb, Pennsylvannia
Default

yea the warrior ones are the ones i saw, i love them xD but id love to hear more about the troubles on install if your willing to share? whatever you have to do im sure its worth it, the look awesome!
Reply
Old Sep 27, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #7  
westchester's Avatar
JK Super Freak
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,866
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Long Island, NY
Default

Originally Posted by ferdis
yea the warrior ones are the ones i saw, i love them xD but id love to hear more about the troubles on install if your willing to share? whatever you have to do im sure its worth it, the look awesome!
The Warrior corners are well priced and achieved my goal to get rid of the stock cumbersome taillights before they were clobbered.

#1. You need to buy the Warrior light kit AND their two resistors. Neither manufacturer or dealer tells you that the circular lights will blink too fast without them, so buy them together. I’ll find you the part #s if needed.

#2. With a grinder and cut-off wheel you'll need to slice away a decent portion of the stock sheet metal where the stock taillights presently are. I was happy to do this (another opportunity to use the fun tools), I just wasn't aware it was needed when bought the corners.

#3. The stock metal skin is two layers thick, and you'll drill and cut through both layers to get the new brake and reverse lights to sit flush. This means weakening the tailgate hinge area on passenger side - if you have an aftermarket rear tire carrier that supports the weight of the spare tire then I see no issue in doing this, but I'd think twice if your spare tire hangs on the stock tailgate mount and depends on tailgate hinges not sagging.

#4 Given the cutting involved there is obviously no going back to stock.

#5 The stock taillight wiring has a grey male-female connector. I mounted the pair of corners on separate weekends, being careful to note which color wire connected to which new pigtail connection on new lights. On the first corner, I kept the grey connector and connected the wire coming from connector to the new lights, but on the second corner I removed the gray connector realizing it wasn't needed. I wired same color wires to new pigtails and couldn't figure out why the new lights wouldn't work correctly. Took me the darndest time to realize the wires before the grey connector are not the same function after the grey connector despite being the same frigging color (but different functionally).

#6 To avoid keep cutting repeatedly, cut at least 1/2 inch of stock metal in addition to the diameter of the hole you trace using a sharpie. The lights are a tight press fit into the provided rubber grommets.

#7 The resistors need to be secured to the stock metal with a metal screw, the large hole from #6 will give you more access to achieve a solid bite and hold the resistor securely.





Reply
Old Sep 27, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #8  
dillUSMC's Avatar
JK Freak
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia, PA
Default

Originally Posted by westchester
The Warrior corners are well priced and achieved my goal to get rid of the stock cumbersome taillights before they were clobbered.

#1. You need to buy the Warrior light kit AND their two resistors. Neither manufacturer or dealer tells you that the circular lights will blink too fast without them, so buy them together. I’ll find you the part #s if needed.

#2. With a grinder and cut-off wheel you'll need to slice away a decent portion of the stock sheet metal where the stock taillights presently are. I was happy to do this (another opportunity to use the fun tools), I just wasn't aware it was needed when bought the corners.

#3. The stock metal skin is two layers thick, and you'll drill and cut through both layers to get the new brake and reverse lights to sit flush. This means weakening the tailgate hinge area on passenger side - if you have an aftermarket rear tire carrier that supports the weight of the spare tire then I see no issue in doing this, but I'd think twice if your spare tire hangs on the stock tailgate mount and depends on tailgate hinges not sagging.

#4 Given the cutting involved there is obviously no going back to stock.

#5 The stock taillight wiring has a grey male-female connector. I mounted the pair of corners on separate weekends, being careful to note which color wire connected to which new pigtail connection on new lights. On the first corner, I kept the grey connector and connected the wire coming from connector to the new lights, but on the second corner I removed the gray connector realizing it wasn't needed. I wired same color wires to new pigtails and couldn't figure out why the new lights wouldn't work correctly. Took me the darndest time to realize the wires before the grey connector are not the same function after the grey connector despite being the same frigging color (but different functionally).

#6 To avoid keep cutting repeatedly, cut at least 1/2 inch of stock metal in addition to the diameter of the hole you trace using a sharpie. The lights are a tight press fit into the provided rubber grommets.

#7 The resistors need to be secured to the stock metal with a metal screw, the large hole from #6 will give you more access to achieve a solid bite and hold the resistor securely.





your tailgate looks like it went thru a war, love the corners tho
Reply
Old Sep 28, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #9  
ferdis's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Mount Cobb, Pennsylvannia
Default

damn a lot of cutting, lol but it seems possible, ill get back to ya if i really decide to do it, im in need of a new right back corner anyway, may as well replace the hideous stock tail lights xD
Reply




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:14 PM.