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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Weak Link

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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 10:12 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Altered Ego
Thanks Tony. I didn't think about the axle u-joints. The skid plates are in the works.
You're welcome.
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #12  
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So far the weak links I've noticed through this forum and my experiences:

Front Drive shaft...design flaw lets it hit the oil pan, and on 4door autos it contacts the skid too...I'm on my third one...
All of the U-joints... Jeep used u joints without full circle clips that have a tendency to fail


Thats about it so far...

I'm planning on notching my skid plate to allow more clearance and later on upgrading the driveshafts and axles shafts to preventatively avoid the most common breakage....


hope that helps
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 11:19 AM
  #13  
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just so that i'm clear on things, the question at hand is "what component should be the weak link" and NOT, what are the weak links? i am reading this correctly?
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 11:34 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
just so that i'm clear on things, the question at hand is "what component should be the weak link" and NOT, what are the weak links? i am reading this correctly?
That is right. But I'll take the latter as well so I will know what to replace 1st. Seems like being easy on the pedal and some spare stock u-joints should do the trick for the unexpected (or in this case...expected) breakage.
Thanks Wayoflife.
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 07:47 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
well, going easy on the skinny pedal will help prevent breaks in the first place but the easiest and cheapest weak link to deal with would probably be a drive shaft u-joint.
What he said.

And with the front locked do what ever you can to avoid turning the steering wheel hard. The easiest way that I can think to break something, is lock the front, turn the wheels hard and gas it. This is sure to be followed by a pop sound.

I carry a spare outer, axle u-joint and rebuild tools.
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Old Oct 11, 2008 | 09:59 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Woods
What he said.

And with the front locked do what ever you can to avoid turning the steering wheel hard. The easiest way that I can think to break something, is lock the front, turn the wheels hard and gas it. This is sure to be followed by a pop sound.

I carry a spare outer, axle u-joint and rebuild tools.
How much will I spend on a spare outer, u-joint and tools?
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 03:40 AM
  #17  
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Harbor Freight sells a U-joint C-press for about $40.

You'll need a 35mm socket and a 13mm 12 point wrench.

I'd look around for a take-off outer and u-joint. I got mine free, from a buddy and I make them available to locals that want to borrow them.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 07:02 AM
  #18  
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Default strap tear

Originally Posted by wayoflife
most of the times, the u-joint will break and tear off the straps as well but.... i will tell you that i have broken a yoke before as well. either way, you can pull your shaft and still hobble off the trail without too much fuss.
I guess when the straps tear off the only thing you can do is pull the shaft and limp off the trail, right? Or can you fix this on the trail and how?
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 07:17 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Altered Ego
I guess when the straps tear off the only thing you can do is pull the shaft and limp off the trail, right? Or can you fix this on the trail and how?
Well, my plan to to have my stock spares intact and ready to slide in for trips far from home, but I would like to hear specific advice on limping home with only one axle or drive shaft (front or rear). I know a fella who just went to Moab and broke a rear D44 axle shaft (TJ), and he ended up paying about $1000 for a chrome-alloy upgrade in Moab. I think they hammered him.
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