Weld On Control Arm Skids / Reinforcement
Hi Yall,
I have a welder and some 1/4" steel and a pattern for the front and rear LOWER control arm brackets on my 2010 JK 4dr.
I am planning on cutting out the skids and welding them to the bracket face to create a box and a skid at the same time...both protecting and reinforcing the brackets.
I have two questions
Question ONE: I have chosen a standard "fillet" weld and was wondering if I need to weld all 3 edges or if I can get away with a 1" weld on all 4 corners?
Question TWO: If I take breaks for cooling...do you think I need to remove the control arm from the bracket to tack weld these skids on?
My reason for wanting to keep the control arms in place for the weld is simple. Once these suckers go on I will have to remove the whole control arm just to get it back on again because the skid will close off the bracket preventing me from being able to simply rotate it back up and in. Ideally, if I can leave them in place that aspect of my suspension remains undisturbed.
Thoughts, tips?
I have a welder and some 1/4" steel and a pattern for the front and rear LOWER control arm brackets on my 2010 JK 4dr.
I am planning on cutting out the skids and welding them to the bracket face to create a box and a skid at the same time...both protecting and reinforcing the brackets.
I have two questions
Question ONE: I have chosen a standard "fillet" weld and was wondering if I need to weld all 3 edges or if I can get away with a 1" weld on all 4 corners?
Question TWO: If I take breaks for cooling...do you think I need to remove the control arm from the bracket to tack weld these skids on?
My reason for wanting to keep the control arms in place for the weld is simple. Once these suckers go on I will have to remove the whole control arm just to get it back on again because the skid will close off the bracket preventing me from being able to simply rotate it back up and in. Ideally, if I can leave them in place that aspect of my suspension remains undisturbed.
Thoughts, tips?
I would weld the full legth of each seam. Leaving gaps would just provide a good edge for a rock to get a grip an do some damage.
I would also remove the arms. The heat will damage the bushings and you will be removing them anyways. Only do one arm off at a time and you will not impact the geometry. If your arms are upgradded adjustable types them be sure to take care not to let the arm length change.
I would also remove the arms. The heat will damage the bushings and you will be removing them anyways. Only do one arm off at a time and you will not impact the geometry. If your arms are upgradded adjustable types them be sure to take care not to let the arm length change.
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Okay - I'm convinced that I have to remove the arms AND weld all 3 seams to complete the box with the bolt being the 4th side of the box. 
Sooooo...allow me to hijack my own thread:
Best way to remove control arms? I will do ONE side at a time FRONT then REAR. LOWERS ONLY obviously.
I've heard, jack the truck - don't jack the truck - remove tires - don't remove tires.
All I really know is that I should only torque it back up to 120ftlbs AFTER it's on the ground...the rest I could use some guidance rather than simply seeing what happens when I start unbolting stuff.
Sooooo...allow me to hijack my own thread:
Best way to remove control arms? I will do ONE side at a time FRONT then REAR. LOWERS ONLY obviously.
I've heard, jack the truck - don't jack the truck - remove tires - don't remove tires.
All I really know is that I should only torque it back up to 120ftlbs AFTER it's on the ground...the rest I could use some guidance rather than simply seeing what happens when I start unbolting stuff.
I notch a 2x4 so the arm rest in the notch on one end and put the other end on the bump stop. Then jack up the axle to push out the arm. I have not removed them on my JK, this is what I did on my TJ, so you might find something other than the bumpstop to line up with... But you get the idea. Many guys just use a prybar too.


