What C - Gussets to get and where to have the installed (Jersey Shore Area)?!
#11
JK Junkie
Good to hear and nice to know that they won't have to worry about heat. That was my biggest concern when it came down to choosing a welder. I knew they all could do it, it was just a question of whether or not they would disregard my situation. Artec it is! Last and final question i promise, leave them bare, paint them black, coat them with something undercoat? Maybe something else I am not mentioning. Thanks again!
If I did it again, I'd paint the inside of the brackets before welding. Just keep the welding edges clean.
To save time and help the welder, you can grind the spots clean on the axle right before he/she shows up. Line it up, use a marker to mark the axle where the welds will be. Pull bracket off and grind the paint off.
#12
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As for skids, I like the synergy kit (gussets, sleeves, and skids) but my truck will not see many rocks in its life. Its wheeled but wheeled lightly. Could save the 60$ for the skids and put it towards some rear facing led cubes I have been eyeing up.
#14
I put my nitro's in without issue after 36,000 miles and after welding on a truss. I left them in the freezer for a few days and cleaned the slag from the first couple inches of the tube. A little anti seize and a 4LB sledge is all it took.
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Great to hear. Just read the more recent post you guys replied to on the nitro sleeve questions. Looks like some dry ice and a warm axle housing are the key to this project. A little lithium white grease will probably help as well. Thanks for the info!!
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Additional info on axle reinforcement
Good information in this thread! You guys really know your stuff. If I may add just a little bit more. You originally asked about gussets but axles can be reinforced in a number of ways...
Sleeving reinforcement can be done in two ways. Internal sleeves are inserted into the axle housing and increase the "thickness" of the housing between the housing and the axle. Some manufactures of internal sleeves are: Rock-Slide Engineering, Poly Performance, Tereflex, Iron Rock, EVO, and Nitro. I believe all but the Nitro require holes to be drilled in the housing then plug welding the sleeve to the axle tubes. The Nitro is pressed/(pounded) into place using friction of a precision fit. Nitro sleeves are preferred by some as they have a slightly larger I.D (resulting in a thinner wall thickness) that is just large enough to allow use of 35 spline axles.
An alternate method is to sleeve the outside of the housing. Rock Slide Engineering has an outer sleeve kit. This increases the "thickness" of the axle tube by adding material to the external or outside of the tubing.
Gusseting is installed at least on the upper sections of the "C" where the "C" is the weakest. However, gussets can be installed on the lower section as well . There are two options for these. Solid flat (and thick) gussets are available through Rock Slide, Terraflex, JKS, TMR, and Pure Jeep. The other option is thinner gauge metal that is formed into a "U" shape and is welded in place on both sides of the "U" channel of the gusset to the outer edges of the "C" section. This style can be obtained through, Poly Performance, Iron Rock, Nitro, and EVO.. Some users have stated that part of the "U" section can interfere with the speed sensor (when the wheels are fully turned to the steering stop) while others have not experienced (or expressed) this.
Trusses (reinforce the entire axle tube assembly and are welded to the "pumkin" and typically to each side of the housing) are available from Pure Jeep and Artec.
The topic of how much reinforcement is enough has been discussed numerous times with almost as many opinions. However, all agree that running larger tires should include at least some reinforcement and how "extreme" you wheel should be taken into consideration. Obviously, if you haven't bent your axle you are OK. However, if you have bent it, the reinforcement installed was not enough.
Larger tires is a bit like swinging a hammer using a longer handle.
When my gussets were welded I left the factory ball joints in and alternated welding each side and cooled with a wet rag frequently. No problems with the ball joints have been observed.
I was originally going to use the thick ones but someone familiar with metal engineering advised that the thinner ones would actually be stronger so I went with his advise.
My $.02 worth, ah what the heck, make it a nickle
KG6SLC aka Eugene
Sleeving reinforcement can be done in two ways. Internal sleeves are inserted into the axle housing and increase the "thickness" of the housing between the housing and the axle. Some manufactures of internal sleeves are: Rock-Slide Engineering, Poly Performance, Tereflex, Iron Rock, EVO, and Nitro. I believe all but the Nitro require holes to be drilled in the housing then plug welding the sleeve to the axle tubes. The Nitro is pressed/(pounded) into place using friction of a precision fit. Nitro sleeves are preferred by some as they have a slightly larger I.D (resulting in a thinner wall thickness) that is just large enough to allow use of 35 spline axles.
An alternate method is to sleeve the outside of the housing. Rock Slide Engineering has an outer sleeve kit. This increases the "thickness" of the axle tube by adding material to the external or outside of the tubing.
Gusseting is installed at least on the upper sections of the "C" where the "C" is the weakest. However, gussets can be installed on the lower section as well . There are two options for these. Solid flat (and thick) gussets are available through Rock Slide, Terraflex, JKS, TMR, and Pure Jeep. The other option is thinner gauge metal that is formed into a "U" shape and is welded in place on both sides of the "U" channel of the gusset to the outer edges of the "C" section. This style can be obtained through, Poly Performance, Iron Rock, Nitro, and EVO.. Some users have stated that part of the "U" section can interfere with the speed sensor (when the wheels are fully turned to the steering stop) while others have not experienced (or expressed) this.
Trusses (reinforce the entire axle tube assembly and are welded to the "pumkin" and typically to each side of the housing) are available from Pure Jeep and Artec.
The topic of how much reinforcement is enough has been discussed numerous times with almost as many opinions. However, all agree that running larger tires should include at least some reinforcement and how "extreme" you wheel should be taken into consideration. Obviously, if you haven't bent your axle you are OK. However, if you have bent it, the reinforcement installed was not enough.
Larger tires is a bit like swinging a hammer using a longer handle.
When my gussets were welded I left the factory ball joints in and alternated welding each side and cooled with a wet rag frequently. No problems with the ball joints have been observed.
I was originally going to use the thick ones but someone familiar with metal engineering advised that the thinner ones would actually be stronger so I went with his advise.
My $.02 worth, ah what the heck, make it a nickle
KG6SLC aka Eugene
#19
JK Freak
Good information in this thread! You guys really know your stuff. If I may add just a little bit more. You originally asked about gussets but axles can be reinforced in a number of ways...
Sleeving reinforcement can be done in two ways. Internal sleeves are inserted into the axle housing and increase the "thickness" of the housing between the housing and the axle. Some manufactures of internal sleeves are: Rock-Slide Engineering, Poly Performance, Tereflex, Iron Rock, EVO, and Nitro. I believe all but the Nitro require holes to be drilled in the housing then plug welding the sleeve to the axle tubes. The Nitro is pressed/(pounded) into place using friction of a precision fit. Nitro sleeves are preferred by some as they have a slightly larger I.D (resulting in a thinner wall thickness) that is just large enough to allow use of 35 spline axles.
An alternate method is to sleeve the outside of the housing. Rock Slide Engineering has an outer sleeve kit. This increases the "thickness" of the axle tube by adding material to the external or outside of the tubing.
Gusseting is installed at least on the upper sections of the "C" where the "C" is the weakest. However, gussets can be installed on the lower section as well . There are two options for these. Solid flat (and thick) gussets are available through Rock Slide, Terraflex, JKS, TMR, and Pure Jeep. The other option is thinner gauge metal that is formed into a "U" shape and is welded in place on both sides of the "U" channel of the gusset to the outer edges of the "C" section. This style can be obtained through, Poly Performance, Iron Rock, Nitro, and EVO.. Some users have stated that part of the "U" section can interfere with the speed sensor (when the wheels are fully turned to the steering stop) while others have not experienced (or expressed) this.
Trusses (reinforce the entire axle tube assembly and are welded to the "pumkin" and typically to each side of the housing) are available from Pure Jeep and Artec.
The topic of how much reinforcement is enough has been discussed numerous times with almost as many opinions. However, all agree that running larger tires should include at least some reinforcement and how "extreme" you wheel should be taken into consideration. Obviously, if you haven't bent your axle you are OK. However, if you have bent it, the reinforcement installed was not enough.
Larger tires is a bit like swinging a hammer using a longer handle.
When my gussets were welded I left the factory ball joints in and alternated welding each side and cooled with a wet rag frequently. No problems with the ball joints have been observed.
I was originally going to use the thick ones but someone familiar with metal engineering advised that the thinner ones would actually be stronger so I went with his advise.
My $.02 worth, ah what the heck, make it a nickle
KG6SLC aka Eugene
Sleeving reinforcement can be done in two ways. Internal sleeves are inserted into the axle housing and increase the "thickness" of the housing between the housing and the axle. Some manufactures of internal sleeves are: Rock-Slide Engineering, Poly Performance, Tereflex, Iron Rock, EVO, and Nitro. I believe all but the Nitro require holes to be drilled in the housing then plug welding the sleeve to the axle tubes. The Nitro is pressed/(pounded) into place using friction of a precision fit. Nitro sleeves are preferred by some as they have a slightly larger I.D (resulting in a thinner wall thickness) that is just large enough to allow use of 35 spline axles.
An alternate method is to sleeve the outside of the housing. Rock Slide Engineering has an outer sleeve kit. This increases the "thickness" of the axle tube by adding material to the external or outside of the tubing.
Gusseting is installed at least on the upper sections of the "C" where the "C" is the weakest. However, gussets can be installed on the lower section as well . There are two options for these. Solid flat (and thick) gussets are available through Rock Slide, Terraflex, JKS, TMR, and Pure Jeep. The other option is thinner gauge metal that is formed into a "U" shape and is welded in place on both sides of the "U" channel of the gusset to the outer edges of the "C" section. This style can be obtained through, Poly Performance, Iron Rock, Nitro, and EVO.. Some users have stated that part of the "U" section can interfere with the speed sensor (when the wheels are fully turned to the steering stop) while others have not experienced (or expressed) this.
Trusses (reinforce the entire axle tube assembly and are welded to the "pumkin" and typically to each side of the housing) are available from Pure Jeep and Artec.
The topic of how much reinforcement is enough has been discussed numerous times with almost as many opinions. However, all agree that running larger tires should include at least some reinforcement and how "extreme" you wheel should be taken into consideration. Obviously, if you haven't bent your axle you are OK. However, if you have bent it, the reinforcement installed was not enough.
Larger tires is a bit like swinging a hammer using a longer handle.
When my gussets were welded I left the factory ball joints in and alternated welding each side and cooled with a wet rag frequently. No problems with the ball joints have been observed.
I was originally going to use the thick ones but someone familiar with metal engineering advised that the thinner ones would actually be stronger so I went with his advise.
My $.02 worth, ah what the heck, make it a nickle
KG6SLC aka Eugene
#20
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Bahahaha! It took me all day to get through the Punisher thread but it was some of the best reading all year. Maybe I will mount my gussets upside down too. I mean according to them its easier. F**k it, I might as well put dubs on it while I am at it. I really can't believe that a shop would be so stupid to put themselves out that way.
Last edited by jeepJK199; 06-20-2014 at 06:32 AM.