What does each part of a lift kit do?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 259
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From: Parker, CO
What does each part of a lift kit do?
I am a newbie at this stuff so i apologize... but can anyone explain what the different parts of a lift do? Which ones are required and which ones are optional?
Or if someone knows of a thread already with this info. I have searched and couldn't find anything. THANKS
Or if someone knows of a thread already with this info. I have searched and couldn't find anything. THANKS
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Bryan, OH
i love these really basic questions. they help me out a lot. but one thing you should do is use the search function to get answers to other basic stuff or people get frustrated answering the same thing all the time.
that said, i didn't search so i can't say if there is a post discussing the simple parts of lifts.
that said, i didn't search so i can't say if there is a post discussing the simple parts of lifts.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
This write-up might be a good place to start. Copy the pic on the upper left and make it your new desktop or screensaver. 
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment
Were you asking about any parts in particular? Or is there a certain lift kit that you're trying to decide on? There is a lot of personal preference in which parts you 'need', so knowing where you are starting from and what you intend to do with your JK would help with answers.
-Trackbars or relocation brackets - center the axles after a lift.
-Adjustable Control Arms - Let you adjust the Caster after the lift. (not adjustable with fixed 'stock' arms. Adjusting caster will stop the 'flightyness/bumpsteer/etc caused by the lift)
-Ext. Bumpstops - help keep the springs from bottoming out and the tires from contacting the fenders.
-Ext brake lines/brackets - keeps them from snapping or being pulled off the frame when flexing.
-Extended Sway Bar links - put the sway bar back to level after the lift.
-Coil Spacers - 'pucks' you put on top of the coils. Can be used to level the front/back or as an inexpensive lift if you don't want to get new coils.
Also, this was posted by Planman. I copied it to notepad, so can't give a link to it.
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment
Were you asking about any parts in particular? Or is there a certain lift kit that you're trying to decide on? There is a lot of personal preference in which parts you 'need', so knowing where you are starting from and what you intend to do with your JK would help with answers.
-Trackbars or relocation brackets - center the axles after a lift.
-Adjustable Control Arms - Let you adjust the Caster after the lift. (not adjustable with fixed 'stock' arms. Adjusting caster will stop the 'flightyness/bumpsteer/etc caused by the lift)
-Ext. Bumpstops - help keep the springs from bottoming out and the tires from contacting the fenders.
-Ext brake lines/brackets - keeps them from snapping or being pulled off the frame when flexing.
-Extended Sway Bar links - put the sway bar back to level after the lift.
-Coil Spacers - 'pucks' you put on top of the coils. Can be used to level the front/back or as an inexpensive lift if you don't want to get new coils.
Also, this was posted by Planman. I copied it to notepad, so can't give a link to it.
JK Lift, Gearing, Skidplate, Tire, & Wheel Considerations
Build for 35” Tires (Budget is $2,500+)
LIFT CONSIDERATIONS (Budget is $400+)
Minimum 2.5” lift (1” body lift and/or flat/trimmed flares add more room)
Spacers or taller springs
Longer rear swaybar links (move stock rears to front)
Rear trackbar or trackbar relocation bracket
Extended bumpstops (fronts not required if you go with flat/trimmed flares)
Rear extended brakeline bracket (easy to fab if not in your kit) or longer brakelines
At 3” you will want an adjustable front trackbar.
Over 3” you will want adjustable lower control arms and an adjustable front trackbar.
If you add a heavy front bumper/winch, you will need a 0.75” front spring spacer to level the JK.
At 3” a 2 dr should consider a rear driveshaft, at 4” a 4dr should consider one due to steep driveshaft angles causing failures.
Lifted JK's with automatic transmissions may have stock driveshaft clearance problems with their stock automatic transmission skid and with their transmission case.
The Rubicon stock shocks are high quality. So, Teraflex and Rough Country sell kits with shock extensions.
Teraflex:
(Teraflex lifts include longer swaybar links, rear trackbar bracket, & extended bumpstops)
2.5” Budget Boost spacer lift with shock adapters is about $249, or $395 with shocks
2.5” Spring lift with shock adapters is $440, or $600 with shocks
3” Spring lift with shocks is $829, (higher than 2.5” lift and you will want to add an adjustable front trackbar from JKS for $140)
Rough Country:
2.5” Spring lift with shocks is $329 plus shipping, but you will want longer swaybar links ($40), rear trackbar relocation bracket ($40), extended bumpstops ($75), and rear brakeline relocation brackets for a total of about $500 shipped.
Superlift, Black Diamond, Zone, and others are similar. Just be sure you have all the components.
Performance Accessories or M.O.R.E: 1” body lift is about $100-$150
Xenon: Flat flares are about $500-$550 depending upon whether you go narrower or wider than stock.
GEARING (Budget is $380 for Programmer, Add $1500 to re-gear)
With taller tires, you may want to add a Hypertech Programmer for about $380 to modify your tune, and to adjust for different size tires and gears. The stock gears are bearable with 35s, a Programmer, and turning off the Overdrive on an automatic or not using 6th gear on a 6 speed. AEV's Procal programmer is less expensive, but does not do performance tuning. Superchips has a new programmer out that is worth a look.
With an Automatic, 5.13 gears are best for 35”+ size tires. If you live at a higher elevation, drive a 4dr, or tow, you'll want 5.38s.
With a 6 speed, 4.88 gears are best for 35” tires and 5.13 gears for 37”+ size tires. If you live at a higher elevation, drive a 4dr, or tow, you'll want 5.13s with 35s.
Superior Axle Gears with overhaul kits run about $700.
American Expedition Vehicles in Missoula, MT, will do the gear install for about $800 for labor. Other shops around the country charge about the same for labor.
SKID PLATE CONSIDERATIONS (Budget is $480+)
The stock automatic transmission skid plate can cause driveline clearance problems when an automatic JK is lifted. There is no stock engine skid plate. The stock gas tank skid plate is thin.
The stock rocker guards/sliders are strong enough to support the jeep.
Minimum recommended skid plate is the Rock Hard engine skid for $380, and EVAP canister skid for $100 (or you can buy a kit for relocation).
TNT Customs/TREKS is selling their combo engine, transfer case and gas tank skid system for $1000
Front and rear bumpers are expensive and start at about $1000 for the pair.
Running a larger than 35” on the stock tire carrier is not advisable.
TIRE CONSIDERATIONS (Budget is $400+ for spacers or wheels and $1200+ for tires)
The stock wheels are narrow with significant backspacing. In order to run wider than a stock tire on the stock wheels, wheel spacers from Teraflex or Spidertrax are necessary to avoid tire damage due to rubbing on suspension components. The spacers are about $100 a pair.
Aftermarket wheels should have no more than 4.5” backspacing. The JKs 5x5 bolt pattern is different than the TJ (5x4.5).
If you sell your stock tires and wheels, you may be able to get $500-$700 for them to offset the cost of larger tires and wheels.
Some 15” wheels may rub the front calipers—requiring grinding some of the material off the calipers for clearance. Most 16” and 17” wheels with 5x5 bolt patterns and 4.5” or less backspacing fit with no problems. 15" wheels and tires for 15" wheels cost less. I prefer load range C tires for a softer ride, but they are usually only available for 15" wheels.
Costco is the least expensive place to buy BFG KM2s. You have to special order them. They mount them to your wheels for carry out. They will not install the tires/wheels on your jeep.
Discount Tire is also extremely compeititve in pricing and service.
Tires for 16” or 17” wheels cost about $80-$100 more per tire than for 15” wheels.
Notes:
Also plan on a CB ($100-$200 installed).
For offroading, you will need to carry tools, recovery gear, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, and a cooler (lunch & drinks). For more extreme offroading, plan on carrying fluids and spare parts.
37” tires will eventually require re-gearing ($1500), upgraded driveshafts ($1,000+), upgraded front axle shafts ($700), and more clearance from either a body lift, flat fenders, or taller lift ($600-$1000s). 37” tires will eventually cause factory parts to fail. The factory warranty will not cover failures caused by non-factory parts.
Build for 35” Tires (Budget is $2,500+)
LIFT CONSIDERATIONS (Budget is $400+)
Minimum 2.5” lift (1” body lift and/or flat/trimmed flares add more room)
Spacers or taller springs
Longer rear swaybar links (move stock rears to front)
Rear trackbar or trackbar relocation bracket
Extended bumpstops (fronts not required if you go with flat/trimmed flares)
Rear extended brakeline bracket (easy to fab if not in your kit) or longer brakelines
At 3” you will want an adjustable front trackbar.
Over 3” you will want adjustable lower control arms and an adjustable front trackbar.
If you add a heavy front bumper/winch, you will need a 0.75” front spring spacer to level the JK.
At 3” a 2 dr should consider a rear driveshaft, at 4” a 4dr should consider one due to steep driveshaft angles causing failures.
Lifted JK's with automatic transmissions may have stock driveshaft clearance problems with their stock automatic transmission skid and with their transmission case.
The Rubicon stock shocks are high quality. So, Teraflex and Rough Country sell kits with shock extensions.
Teraflex:
(Teraflex lifts include longer swaybar links, rear trackbar bracket, & extended bumpstops)
2.5” Budget Boost spacer lift with shock adapters is about $249, or $395 with shocks
2.5” Spring lift with shock adapters is $440, or $600 with shocks
3” Spring lift with shocks is $829, (higher than 2.5” lift and you will want to add an adjustable front trackbar from JKS for $140)
Rough Country:
2.5” Spring lift with shocks is $329 plus shipping, but you will want longer swaybar links ($40), rear trackbar relocation bracket ($40), extended bumpstops ($75), and rear brakeline relocation brackets for a total of about $500 shipped.
Superlift, Black Diamond, Zone, and others are similar. Just be sure you have all the components.
Performance Accessories or M.O.R.E: 1” body lift is about $100-$150
Xenon: Flat flares are about $500-$550 depending upon whether you go narrower or wider than stock.
GEARING (Budget is $380 for Programmer, Add $1500 to re-gear)
With taller tires, you may want to add a Hypertech Programmer for about $380 to modify your tune, and to adjust for different size tires and gears. The stock gears are bearable with 35s, a Programmer, and turning off the Overdrive on an automatic or not using 6th gear on a 6 speed. AEV's Procal programmer is less expensive, but does not do performance tuning. Superchips has a new programmer out that is worth a look.
With an Automatic, 5.13 gears are best for 35”+ size tires. If you live at a higher elevation, drive a 4dr, or tow, you'll want 5.38s.
With a 6 speed, 4.88 gears are best for 35” tires and 5.13 gears for 37”+ size tires. If you live at a higher elevation, drive a 4dr, or tow, you'll want 5.13s with 35s.
Superior Axle Gears with overhaul kits run about $700.
American Expedition Vehicles in Missoula, MT, will do the gear install for about $800 for labor. Other shops around the country charge about the same for labor.
SKID PLATE CONSIDERATIONS (Budget is $480+)
The stock automatic transmission skid plate can cause driveline clearance problems when an automatic JK is lifted. There is no stock engine skid plate. The stock gas tank skid plate is thin.
The stock rocker guards/sliders are strong enough to support the jeep.
Minimum recommended skid plate is the Rock Hard engine skid for $380, and EVAP canister skid for $100 (or you can buy a kit for relocation).
TNT Customs/TREKS is selling their combo engine, transfer case and gas tank skid system for $1000
Front and rear bumpers are expensive and start at about $1000 for the pair.
Running a larger than 35” on the stock tire carrier is not advisable.
TIRE CONSIDERATIONS (Budget is $400+ for spacers or wheels and $1200+ for tires)
The stock wheels are narrow with significant backspacing. In order to run wider than a stock tire on the stock wheels, wheel spacers from Teraflex or Spidertrax are necessary to avoid tire damage due to rubbing on suspension components. The spacers are about $100 a pair.
Aftermarket wheels should have no more than 4.5” backspacing. The JKs 5x5 bolt pattern is different than the TJ (5x4.5).
If you sell your stock tires and wheels, you may be able to get $500-$700 for them to offset the cost of larger tires and wheels.
Some 15” wheels may rub the front calipers—requiring grinding some of the material off the calipers for clearance. Most 16” and 17” wheels with 5x5 bolt patterns and 4.5” or less backspacing fit with no problems. 15" wheels and tires for 15" wheels cost less. I prefer load range C tires for a softer ride, but they are usually only available for 15" wheels.
Costco is the least expensive place to buy BFG KM2s. You have to special order them. They mount them to your wheels for carry out. They will not install the tires/wheels on your jeep.
Discount Tire is also extremely compeititve in pricing and service.
Tires for 16” or 17” wheels cost about $80-$100 more per tire than for 15” wheels.
Notes:
Also plan on a CB ($100-$200 installed).
For offroading, you will need to carry tools, recovery gear, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, and a cooler (lunch & drinks). For more extreme offroading, plan on carrying fluids and spare parts.
37” tires will eventually require re-gearing ($1500), upgraded driveshafts ($1,000+), upgraded front axle shafts ($700), and more clearance from either a body lift, flat fenders, or taller lift ($600-$1000s). 37” tires will eventually cause factory parts to fail. The factory warranty will not cover failures caused by non-factory parts.
Last edited by nthinuf; Aug 31, 2009 at 10:19 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: Stuttgart, Germany
nthinuf gave a great answer as to what the various parts of a lift do. Really can't add that much. The link he gave is also really good. Sit and look at the picture a bit, read the accompanying article, then look at the picture again, then go out and look at the Jeep, drive it somewhere where you can get some articulation, get out and look at the suspension and what things are doing, and you will figure it out relatively quickly.
Which ones are required and which ones are optional? That all depends on what you are trying to do - how high you want to go or how much you want to be able to fine tune your Jeep. As a good starting point, most of the lifts that you find have pretty much what it required in the kit and offer the optional parts as, well, an option. If you are thinking about one of the higher lifts out there, say 2.5" or more, you are going to change your suspension geometry to the point where you want to have as much as possible adjustable so that you can get everything back to where it should be and to get the best ride possible. I would say, at a minimum, adjustable track bars are an option that should really be considered, even on a mild lift. The relocation brackets work, but not as well. Extended brake lines are also a plus, even if you don't go high enough to really need them, the majority are braided steel lines, which, in addition to being longer, provide for a stiffer brake. It won't be as noticable on a new vehicle as on an older one. IMO, adjustablity is not optional, it is required; everything that can be adjustable should be - other people have other thoughts.
After you figure out what you want to do with your Jeep - no one can tell you, you have to decide for yourself, and there are plenty of threads on here discussing the merits and downfalls of the various lift heights. Then, buy a quality lift kit. Look at things like warranty, company reputation, and reviews on this forum. Just because a kit includes more things and costs less, doesn't mean it is a better buy. Your suspension is important, not only for being able to do more off road, but for safety and ride quality. Invest a bit more $ here and save somewhere else if you have to. There is no sense in saving a ton of cash and having to suffer with a Jeep that rides poorly.
Another question that will probably soon follow is long arm or short arm. There are tons of threads here on the topic, so I will keep it short. A long arm will provide for more linear axle movement and a smoother ride. Keep in mind, though, that the control arms on the JK are already of considerable length.
For what it's worth, I am a big fan of Clayton and Currie (currently have a Clayton lift). Take a look at what they offer. I'm not saying that they are the best, but I have allways been satisfied with their lift kits.
Which ones are required and which ones are optional? That all depends on what you are trying to do - how high you want to go or how much you want to be able to fine tune your Jeep. As a good starting point, most of the lifts that you find have pretty much what it required in the kit and offer the optional parts as, well, an option. If you are thinking about one of the higher lifts out there, say 2.5" or more, you are going to change your suspension geometry to the point where you want to have as much as possible adjustable so that you can get everything back to where it should be and to get the best ride possible. I would say, at a minimum, adjustable track bars are an option that should really be considered, even on a mild lift. The relocation brackets work, but not as well. Extended brake lines are also a plus, even if you don't go high enough to really need them, the majority are braided steel lines, which, in addition to being longer, provide for a stiffer brake. It won't be as noticable on a new vehicle as on an older one. IMO, adjustablity is not optional, it is required; everything that can be adjustable should be - other people have other thoughts.
After you figure out what you want to do with your Jeep - no one can tell you, you have to decide for yourself, and there are plenty of threads on here discussing the merits and downfalls of the various lift heights. Then, buy a quality lift kit. Look at things like warranty, company reputation, and reviews on this forum. Just because a kit includes more things and costs less, doesn't mean it is a better buy. Your suspension is important, not only for being able to do more off road, but for safety and ride quality. Invest a bit more $ here and save somewhere else if you have to. There is no sense in saving a ton of cash and having to suffer with a Jeep that rides poorly.
Another question that will probably soon follow is long arm or short arm. There are tons of threads here on the topic, so I will keep it short. A long arm will provide for more linear axle movement and a smoother ride. Keep in mind, though, that the control arms on the JK are already of considerable length.
For what it's worth, I am a big fan of Clayton and Currie (currently have a Clayton lift). Take a look at what they offer. I'm not saying that they are the best, but I have allways been satisfied with their lift kits.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,824
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From: Utah
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