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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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At what lift height are rear coil correction wedges desireable?

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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 07:41 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
IF you can't weld, find a friend with a welder or find a shop. Its not like they don't exist. I am getting tired of people that cry that they can't weld and only can bolt crap bandaids on their jeeps.
If you’re tired of it then don’t respond. Not everyone has the trust of in someone to cut/weld on their Jeep. To us it may not be a big deal but to others it’s a huge deal. No sense in being an abrasive ass.
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 07:48 AM
  #12  
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Because there are people out there that can cut and weld that may not have thought of doing something as simple as moving a coil perch. Putting the ideas out there will give people better understanding of how to fix an issue rather than bolting on an expensive piece of junk. Maybe it will get some to pick up a cheap welder and start a new skill.Its amazing people can afford $1000 light bars they will never use but picking a a 110 flux core welder and a grinder is such a big deal and expense.
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 09:56 AM
  #13  
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Some people are just ass holes, we all have one except others are bigger.
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 10:42 AM
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Some can weld, some can't. Not that big of a deal. It is indeed a nice hobby and once you learn how it's amazing the whole new world that opens up as far as problem solving. That said, I don't fault anyone for not welding either due to lack of knowledge/skill, or just lack of interest. It's really not that big of a deal. Before I could weld I'd run down to the mom & pop muffler shop with a simple thing every now and then. They'd run a bead here or there for me, but they were less likely to actually fabricate something on the jeep for me. I really can't blame anyone for going bolt on route for this particular thing. I'm just happy to see people willing to do crap themselves......even if it is just bolt on. You know how many people just go to a shop and pay someone else to fix things?
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 11:18 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by resharp001
You know how many people just go to a shop and pay someone else to fix things?
I can’t count how many times I’ve wanted to pay a shop to fix or work on my vehicles over the years. Whether it’s due to my laziness, lack of time, simplicity in just letting someone else hassle with it, etc.. I tell myself often that “next time I’m just gonna let someone else mess with it”. But every time a new part shows up I have a hard time trusting someone else to do it. Heck, I’m having a shop mount my beadlocks next week and I’m having trust issues with something that simple. I don’t care to wrestle the tires off my old wheels or else I’d do that myself too.
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 11:42 AM
  #16  
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Hornet - if you took the pictures with the Jeep on its suspension (IE no jack) then your driveshaft is too straight at the u-joint. Try angling the front of the diff down to about 4-5* shaft to pinion angle and a lot of the spring bow will go away and the u-joint will last way longer. Mine was straight too and it had a slight vibration at about 65mph turned it to about 4* and now smooth all the time. Advice from the guy who built my shafts. I presume you have adjustable CA's on the back?
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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Sixty4x4
Hornet - if you took the pictures with the Jeep on its suspension (IE no jack) then your driveshaft is too straight at the u-joint. Try angling the front of the diff down to about 4-5* shaft to pinion angle and a lot of the spring bow will go away and the u-joint will last way longer. Mine was straight too and it had a slight vibration at about 65mph turned it to about 4* and now smooth all the time. Advice from the guy who built my shafts. I presume you have adjustable CA's on the back?
That depends on what type of hoints you have in the drive shaft. With a CV or double Cardon shaft you want the pinion pointed at the output on the transfer case. If you have a single u joint on each end then you need to adjust the pinion down so both the upper and lower ujoints are running at the same angle. On the factory axle it does not really matter excppt by dropping the pinion angle down it further pinches the rubber boot around the upper joint and of course you will be more likely to hit the lower joint at the pinion when off road.

Tom Woods site has a good expanation with pictures. Lots of good driveline tech on there.
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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 09:01 AM
  #18  
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Dirtman - mine has a double cardan at the top and a single at the diff. Vibration went away with the adjustment. Not sure what Hornet has though. I know I have to constantly grease that mid section and be aware of u-joint wear but the double is silky smooth.
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