what is the new designed axle called. it has a something like a ball and socket instead of u-joint. I was told they are equal to 60s in strength. any info on these would be appreciated or if anyone even knows what thyey are called i can search from there.

 

RCV axles. David at Northridge stocks them. Give him a call. He will set you up.

 

thanks, i was planning on him anyways for the rear axles.

 

RCV is a sponsor here

rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/index.php"]http://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/index.php

 

CV's are awesome. They allow you to turn sharp without any binding like u-joints have. Friend has some in the front D60 in his buggy with a 450hp V8 and 40" Kreepy Krawlers. They have held up great so far.

 

wow thats a nice setup. that would be great to get better turning radius, this would be a plus on the trail. on tight trails i might have to back up , forward a couple times to make it around some turns, but i know part of it is because of long wheel base. thanks for the replies guys.

 

they are CV joints, 'Constant Velocity'. They allow angles with no binding or weak points. You won't get that front wrap-up when turning like you do with a u-joint that wants to straighten out every rotation (that gives that wrap/bind).

They are the cats meow. Pathetic that JKs still run front u-joint axles to this day. They only came out like 60 years or so (at least)

 

Some of the Toyota guys I know I removing the CVs and the JK guys are installing them. They are great when straight, heard they don't do very well when completely turned when the cup is maxxed out on the joint. Even if the shafts are comparable to the D60s strength, is the R&P up to the task is the question...

 

I wouldn't imagine the ball bearings to pop out of the RCVs. When going cross-gender (toyota>jeep) there are always pros/cons. Something has to be the weakest link, case, joints, shafts, ring and pinion, drive shaft, transfer case, trans, clutch, differential, etc, etc...Putting something stronger just raises the "amperage" on the fuse. May make it more expensive, but takes more to blow it.

 

The amperage on the fuse is raised on the shaft side. Since the torque value is raised to shear the shaft, the load is now transfered onto the R&P and carrier. So instead of a u-joint popping, the added torque can now shear off the teeth on the R&P which can cause the carrier to get chewed up as well. $250 front R&P, $500+ carrier, $labor. The damage can be expensive and time consuming. In some cases, as WOL I believe, the broken pieces marred the tubes and seals to the point of trashing the entire axle.

I'm a firm believer in stronger housing and carrier and leaving the shafts stock. I've seen more damage done to R&Ps due to upgraded shafts. Hardly anyone in the club I'm in uses Inferior shafts. They either broke before the OEM shafts did or caused more damage. Most of them run Detroits on OEM shafts. The occasional 20 minute shaft swap on the trail beats removing carriers and gearsets to continue moving on the trail.

My opinion and 2 cents.