who's running 38's? What's your setup?
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who's running 38's? What's your setup?
Hey guys, I'm looking to run 38x15.50 tires and I'd love to hear from people that are running 38's and see what your set up is and mods you've done... what has worked and what doesn't... if you had to do it all over what would you do differently.
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I'm running 38x13.50s on a 4" suspension, 1" body lift, flat fenders, 3.5" extended rear bumpstops, and adjustable trackbars/control arms...among a bunch of other little things...you can check out my build thread as well for more details
-Adam
-Adam
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That thing is a BEAST... great build thread!
Could you see a big boost in performance after adding the 5:13's? how bad was it before?
If you had to do it again from stock would you go with a 4" lift + body lift or would you go for a 5-6" lift?
Can't wait to see more
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Thanks! Yes, I could definitely feel the performance difference with the new gearing. Honestly, its slightly over-geared for as much highway driving as I do. (Only because I have a 6speed...5.13s would be perfect for an auto) As it stands now I run right at 3000rpms at 75mph. Here in Tennessee the speed limit is 70, so 4.88s would have been ideal with the 6sp if I wasn't ever going any larger than a 38" tire. With the 4.10s it wasn't HORRIBLE, but it struggled to maintain speed in 6th gear.
Honestly, if I did it again, I wouldn't have went any higher with the suspension lift--I would have went slightly lower! The issue with 4" and above is that even with adjustable arms, you will always be compromising between enough caster to keep the handling in check and a straight enough pinion angle to eliminate vibrations. The only way I would go any higher would be if I added manual hubs, in which case I wouldn't have to worry about pinion angle on the highway since the driveshaft would free-spin.
If I did it again I would go with a 3-3.5" lift, up the body lift to 1.5-2", and simply cut more of the wheelwells and added a little more bumpstop.
BUT--instead I just pulled the axles and suspension and sold everything in preparation for 1-ton axles, coilovers, and 40" tires! O lol
Honestly, if I did it again, I wouldn't have went any higher with the suspension lift--I would have went slightly lower! The issue with 4" and above is that even with adjustable arms, you will always be compromising between enough caster to keep the handling in check and a straight enough pinion angle to eliminate vibrations. The only way I would go any higher would be if I added manual hubs, in which case I wouldn't have to worry about pinion angle on the highway since the driveshaft would free-spin.
If I did it again I would go with a 3-3.5" lift, up the body lift to 1.5-2", and simply cut more of the wheelwells and added a little more bumpstop.
BUT--instead I just pulled the axles and suspension and sold everything in preparation for 1-ton axles, coilovers, and 40" tires! O lol
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Honestly, if I did it again, I wouldn't have went any higher with the suspension lift--I would have went slightly lower! The issue with 4" and above is that even with adjustable arms, you will always be compromising between enough caster to keep the handling in check and a straight enough pinion angle to eliminate vibrations. The only way I would go any higher would be if I added manual hubs, in which case I wouldn't have to worry about pinion angle on the highway since the driveshaft would free-spin.
If I did it again I would go with a 3-3.5" lift, up the body lift to 1.5-2", and simply cut more of the wheelwells and added a little more bumpstop.
BUT--instead I just pulled the axles and suspension and sold everything in preparation for 1-ton axles, coilovers, and 40" tires! O lol
If I did it again I would go with a 3-3.5" lift, up the body lift to 1.5-2", and simply cut more of the wheelwells and added a little more bumpstop.
BUT--instead I just pulled the axles and suspension and sold everything in preparation for 1-ton axles, coilovers, and 40" tires! O lol
Dude, you're going full tilt with the 40's and coil overs... can't wait to see the results