Worth swapping an axle?
Hey guys got a stock no locker Dana 30?35? I found a Dana 44 front axle from a rubi with elocker. U guys think it's worth swapping if the price is right? What would u guys pay for a Dana 44 and locker ? Thanks!
Note the guy says one of the control arm mounts are bent. Only issue not broken but bent maybe an easy fix
Note the guy says one of the control arm mounts are bent. Only issue not broken but bent maybe an easy fix
Hey guys got a stock no locker Dana 30?35? I found a Dana 44 front axle from a rubi with elocker. U guys think it's worth swapping if the price is right? What would u guys pay for a Dana 44 and locker ? Thanks!
Note the guy says one of the control arm mounts are bent. Only issue not broken but bent maybe an easy fix
Note the guy says one of the control arm mounts are bent. Only issue not broken but bent maybe an easy fix
If the price is right for you get the 44 with locker. Control arms mounts are easy to fix. I have seen prices vary. I have also seen people selling them for way more than they are worth.
Maybe obvious, maybe not, but make sure it has the correct ring and pinion gear ratio, or get your rear differential re-geared to match, otherwise the first time you kick it into 4 wheel, something will explode, very likely the transfer case.
Happy Jeeping!
Happy Jeeping!
The rubi 44 has internal upgrades, not external. The housing itself is just as strong/weak as your current front d30. Just something to keep in mind. As noted above, the gears need to match, so you may have another added expense on one end.
Haven't seen a link for the ebay guy posted in a while. If he is still around, that seems to be a great deal. Under 2k, including shipping, for a complete front axle with the gears of your choice. Should be a good starting point for a price comparison, anyway.
Haven't seen a link for the ebay guy posted in a while. If he is still around, that seems to be a great deal. Under 2k, including shipping, for a complete front axle with the gears of your choice. Should be a good starting point for a price comparison, anyway.
Thanks guys! This is a noob question. Although with a locker can I regear the front without needed to get a new locker? This used on seems like a steal. It's bare bones all have to take stuff from my Dana 30 and put it on the 44 like the break calipers and rotors etc. can I regear the front if it has a locker? I want 5.10 gearing front and rear. Also opions welcome. What is more important front or rear locker to start? Thanks!
What is the purpose of going Dana 44? Locker?
I'm moving to 37" and had to do something about my Dana 30.
1) Sleeve, Gusset
2) Rubi Dana 44 take off
3) Prorock 44 with ARB locker.
After all the math, i chose option 3. Hopefully i can start the build next week.
I'm moving to 37" and had to do something about my Dana 30.
1) Sleeve, Gusset
2) Rubi Dana 44 take off
3) Prorock 44 with ARB locker.
After all the math, i chose option 3. Hopefully i can start the build next week.
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Thanks guys! This is a noob question. Although with a locker can I regear the front without needed to get a new locker? This used on seems like a steal. It's bare bones all have to take stuff from my Dana 30 and put it on the 44 like the break calipers and rotors etc. can I regear the front if it has a locker? I want 5.10 gearing front and rear. Also opions welcome. What is more important front or rear locker to start? Thanks!
If the new front axle comes with a locker, front or rear is irrelevant. For those who are not swapping axles and can only afford to lock one end, there is some debate. Personally, I think the rear is the better choice. You are more likely to need the lockers going uphill than downhill. When going up, weight is transferred off of the front end and onto the rear end. More weight = more traction, more weight + locked = ? Then there are the folks who say a locked front will 'pull' you over an obstacle. But is there enough weight on the front end for those tires to hook up?
And then there is the discussion of whether you want to lock a front d30 or a rear d44. Many people would lock the 44 first and not spend a dime on the 30. But, you will get opinion on both sides of the argument. Probably not a right or wrong answer.
People are still snapping D30s on 35s, heck even stock tires too. All depends on how you wheel it or you're just unlucky. Some kind of axle reinforcement will be good for the D30 regardless, if you don't have the money to drop on brand new axles, or can build up your own. Im just hoping these sleeves, gussets, and lower control arm plates will hold up till I can buy a D60. Selling a used D30 sleeved, gusseted, or built is easy to sell on around these forums. Obviously won't get what you put in, but can help go towards the new ones.
A d30 with 3.21 gears will need a new carrier when moving to any other jk gear ratio. Any jk d44 carrier is ok with any jk gear ratio. The locker will be fine. If the new front axle comes with a locker, front or rear is irrelevant. For those who are not swapping axles and can only afford to lock one end, there is some debate. Personally, I think the rear is the better choice. You are more likely to need the lockers going uphill than downhill. When going up, weight is transferred off of the front end and onto the rear end. More weight = more traction, more weight + locked = ? Then there are the folks who say a locked front will 'pull' you over an obstacle. But is there enough weight on the front end for those tires to hook up?
And then there is the discussion of whether you want to lock a front d30 or a rear d44. Many people would lock the 44 first and not spend a dime on the 30. But, you will get opinion on both sides of the argument. Probably not a right or wrong answer.
And then there is the discussion of whether you want to lock a front d30 or a rear d44. Many people would lock the 44 first and not spend a dime on the 30. But, you will get opinion on both sides of the argument. Probably not a right or wrong answer.



