I love my Bushwacker flares. Fit is excellent, and very solid. Install isn't bad at all, just take your time.

 

X2, I have seen a few sets of xenons and decided to go with the bushwackers, they look great, go on easy and no more rubbing at full stuff

 

Installation is not to bad, the first one is the most time consuming. Then after that the others go on pretty quickly. Make sure you follow the directions closely. When cutting the inner liner you just have to take your time. The fenders have a plastic mounting bracket that goes thru existing holes and the fender fits over then screws into the brackets. Difficulty scale 1-10 I would give it a 3 or 4. A 4 because of the trimming of the inners.

 

Like everyone has said. First one takes the longest but not hard at all to install. Happy with my Bushwackers.

 

Good looking rig!! I love the Hi-Lift mount location, I need some details on how you mounted it. Is that how the new Rugged Ridge bumpers look now?

EDIT: I see you have an ARB front now. Whats the rear since I dont think its the Rugged Ridge.

 

Hey YingYang

The bumper is a Smittybilt XRC with tire carrrier. The Hi-Lift is mounted with just some bolts, washers, and lock nuts. I used some rubber grommets over the nut and bolt. The entire mod took 5 minutes. I just needed to drill 2 holes and that was it. The base of the Hi-Lift stays in the recovery bag and I have a quick release Cotter pin for it. Super strong. Didn't lose any clearance. NO rattle. Solid Solid Solid! Looks like it should be a factory XRC mount location.

 

Are the Xenon or Bushwackers held onto the body by nutserts? I used nutserts for my teraflex sliders and swore I'd never use nutserts ever again.

 

I e-mailed Bushwacker and they said they sell the front flares separate. I don't care for the rear ones. Do they match the factory flares? I love the shape of the fronts and want to find someone who sells the front only... any sponsors???

 

No to the nutserts on the Bushwackers. The subframe is plastic and is held on with bolts thru existing holes in the sheetmetal. The rear subframe uses bolts and the plastic push rivets. The flares then go over all the subframing and use metal screws thru flare and into a metal clip.

 

They are real close to the texture of the factory flares.