New Guy from OK
Hi everyone!
I've had a 2011 JKU Sport S for 3.5 years. It has just over 100k on it. Pretty stock right now except for minor stuff (hoodlatches, radio receiver, gas cover, and a Cold Air Intake.) I found this while looking up how to do maintenance beyond oil changes myself now that I've moved away from my trusted mechanic I had since I bought it. Looking forward to just getting great advice from the community
I've had a 2011 JKU Sport S for 3.5 years. It has just over 100k on it. Pretty stock right now except for minor stuff (hoodlatches, radio receiver, gas cover, and a Cold Air Intake.) I found this while looking up how to do maintenance beyond oil changes myself now that I've moved away from my trusted mechanic I had since I bought it. Looking forward to just getting great advice from the community
So far my plans for maintenance are:
Transmission pan drop, with replacement gasket, filter, and fluid
Clean and replace of Front and Rear Diff Fluid
Replacement of Transfer Case Fluid
Replacement of Spark Plugs, Ignition Coil, and Wires
Replacement of PCV
Replacement of Serpentine Belt
Flush of Coolant System
Replacement of Brake Rotors, Pads, and Hardware, with a brake fluid flush
Inspection of Ball Joints
and Install of Cold Air Intake/ Rear Seat Recline Kit
Most of it has been amazingly easy to follow from the forum, if I'm missing anything for major maintenance I'd love to know now while I still have parts coming in.
Transmission pan drop, with replacement gasket, filter, and fluid
Clean and replace of Front and Rear Diff Fluid
Replacement of Transfer Case Fluid
Replacement of Spark Plugs, Ignition Coil, and Wires
Replacement of PCV
Replacement of Serpentine Belt
Flush of Coolant System
Replacement of Brake Rotors, Pads, and Hardware, with a brake fluid flush
Inspection of Ball Joints
and Install of Cold Air Intake/ Rear Seat Recline Kit
Most of it has been amazingly easy to follow from the forum, if I'm missing anything for major maintenance I'd love to know now while I still have parts coming in.
Just a couple quick hit tidbits based on your post there -
Transmission fluid - idk about the 3.8L, but the pan on the 3.6L was a booger. Since we don't have a drain plug, it's highly advisable to get a mittyvac and pull as much fluid out through the dipstick tube before dropping the pan. Since you won't have to do a "controlled spill", you can easily keep track of what you pulled out and replace with the same amount of new fluid. It's a win-win.
Diff fluid changes - I always remove the cover to clean and inspect. If you do this, $15 Lube Lockers are really convenient as opposed to RTV to seal it back up.
TC fluid - easy job, get a little hand pump cuz you can't pour the new fluid into the TC.
Coolant flush - don't waste your time with the petcock, it's worthless. pull the lower hose to drain efficiently.
Ball Joints - def get to know that test. Bad BJs, loose TB bolts, and worn TB joints are the top causes of death wobble.
Transmission fluid - idk about the 3.8L, but the pan on the 3.6L was a booger. Since we don't have a drain plug, it's highly advisable to get a mittyvac and pull as much fluid out through the dipstick tube before dropping the pan. Since you won't have to do a "controlled spill", you can easily keep track of what you pulled out and replace with the same amount of new fluid. It's a win-win.
Diff fluid changes - I always remove the cover to clean and inspect. If you do this, $15 Lube Lockers are really convenient as opposed to RTV to seal it back up.
TC fluid - easy job, get a little hand pump cuz you can't pour the new fluid into the TC.
Coolant flush - don't waste your time with the petcock, it's worthless. pull the lower hose to drain efficiently.
Ball Joints - def get to know that test. Bad BJs, loose TB bolts, and worn TB joints are the top causes of death wobble.








