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Rubicon Express Electric Sway Bar Disconnects

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Old 10-18-2009, 09:14 AM
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Default Rubicon Express Electric Sway Bar Disconnects

I was out wheeling yesterday and thought I had maybe rolled my right front off of the rim, I was only aired down to 20PSI I have a 4.5' RE Long Arm Lift on my 2009 Rubicon Unlimited. Upon further investigation I found that the inboard side wall of my brand new Wrangler MTR Kevlar was torn up Now I'm really pissed that I have noticed that the bolt on my Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect link had evidence of rubber on it and is what had chewed a hole in the tire Has anyone ever had this problem and if so what was the fix?
Old 10-18-2009, 09:21 AM
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what kind of wheels are you running? more than likely you have too much backspacing on them. i see this happen all the time with wide 12.50's or 13.50 tires on stock wheels (even when running wheel spacers) and aftermarket wheels that have around 5" of back spacing.
Old 10-18-2009, 01:17 PM
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i blew out a stock tire when i first disconnectected .didnt have disconnects yet so i took the bottom bolt out pushed the swaybar up when i was flexxed and the wheel cut a little it hit pretty good put a nice gash in the sidewall.
Old 10-18-2009, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Steel Rain
I was out wheeling yesterday and thought I had maybe rolled my right front off of the rim, I was only aired down to 20PSI I have a 4.5' RE Long Arm Lift on my 2009 Rubicon Unlimited. Upon further investigation I found that the inboard side wall of my brand new Wrangler MTR Kevlar was torn up Now I'm really pissed that I have noticed that the bolt on my Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect link had evidence of rubber on it and is what had chewed a hole in the tire Has anyone ever had this problem and if so what was the fix?
Yep! I blew out a brand spankin new 37" BFG KM2 on the Rubicon. I have the R.E. 4.5 Long arm kit as well. I had AEV beadlock wheels on my rig back then. The top bolt in the E-discos is stock huh. With the R.E. kits sway bar extensions and using the stock bolts it tore the inside sidewall up and ruined the tire on my drivers side on full compress. I fixed it by replacing the top bolts with a smooth rounded torx bolt. Had to drill the R.E. sway bar extensions out a tad. But that trip cost me a brand new tire. If you used the drag link flip kit that came with the kit also make sure you know that it is screwed up to. It will hit the frame on the passenger side when it goes to full compress. Mine also hit the sway bar extensions on full droop that I had to replace the drag link. I went down there and talked to the engineer but he just said yeah your right. wow! I see what you mean. Also like what Eddie said watch your backspacing on the wheels too. Hope this helps.
Old 10-18-2009, 01:58 PM
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Default Re 4.5"

You mean you went to RE and talked with their engineer? The back space on my wheels is 4.5" just what RE specs for this lift. Thanks for your interest
Old 10-18-2009, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Steel Rain
You mean you went to RE and talked with their engineer? The back space on my wheels is 4.5" just what RE specs for this lift. Thanks for your interest
Yeah, they are in Rancho Cordova, CA Its just about 30 mins from my house. When I had a problem they took me in the back to show them what I had going on. After that it was clear.
Old 10-18-2009, 04:06 PM
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Don't wheel hard till you replace those bolts or it will happen again. Sucks! How long have you had the kit? R.E. says that if you bought your kit between 7/1/2008 to 7/1/2009 (there words not mine) you might have defective bushings. They will replace them but the labor is on you. Mine are toast, already split. I just haven't had the time to change them yet. Need your receipt to receive them to.



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