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Caster adjustment cut outs on front axle housing. How??

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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Default Caster adjustment cut outs on front axle housing. How??

So I think I'm going to fab up some caster adjuster type things like I've seen here. The square plates with the offset hole. Not sure how to easily remove the factory widgets that allow using cam bolts. Any help?? I'm not up for purchasing a one time use tool.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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You can either use a chisel or a rotary type grinding tool....You should do a search and read up on cam bolts before actually taking on the task...Instead of using cam bolts you should consider getting front adjustable lower control arms. This will allow you a wide range of adjustment to address your castor as compared to the cam bolts which have been known to work themselves loose & provide you w/minimum castor adjustment...Aside from that if you ever upgrade your lift (or return your JK to stock) and go higher and end up using adjustable control arms you would have to weld back the hole you enlarged from running the cam bolts...Best of luck...
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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Die grinder with a diamond bit will take it right out. Adj front lower control arms are a better choice though.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by tburk49760
... Not sure how to easily remove the factory widgets that allow using cam bolts. ...
Add me to the coming cacophony: If you wheel your rig, don't do it! Do the job right and get adjustable front lower control arms.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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I hear and appreciate what y'all are saying but intend to use regular bolts and weld the square "washers" to the lca brackets once I get the castor dialed in... I do wheel it on occasion but not hard. I can afford the adjustable lca but could use that $300 for other toy projects...
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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If you have acess to a welder, hell you should have a torch too, right? Just torch it out and finish it with a die grinder. Although a grinder with a $40 bit wil take it out too
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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I used a sawzall with a small blade and cut through it like butter. Just cut straight back to the end of the slot and wiggle the part you're removing back and forth and it'll snap off. I made something simular to what you're talking about when I went from cam bolts to adj. LCA's except my holes were centered. I just sheared some 1/8 plate into 40mm squares and punched a 15mm hole in the center. I didn't even bother to weld them in because they're not going anywhere.
I found that with the cam bolts adjusted so the bolt was all the way back in the slot I still did not have enough caster adjustment so I eventually went to adj control arms. I went with the Rusty's arms because they are stout and only cost $225 delivered.

Last edited by Bradlybob; Feb 1, 2010 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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That's exactly what I was looking for bradlybob. Thanks all for the input. I am concerned that I may not be able to get enuff castor with this method. But AEV uses cam bolts with their kit and I have a great deal of respect for them.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tburk49760
That's exactly what I was looking for bradlybob. Thanks all for the input. I am concerned that I may not be able to get enuff castor with this method. But AEV uses cam bolts with their kit and I have a great deal of respect for them.
I have the AEV kit and it handled fine with the cam bolts but it wasn't as good as it could be. I just needed a little more caster to make it handle like a caddy.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tburk49760
... AEV uses cam bolts with their kit and I have a great deal of respect for them.
AEV makes some nice stuff. However, general consensus on this issue is that adjustable front LCAs are best. Consider this post by WOL:

Caster Cam Bolts?

Now, if you don't wheel, you may not care that you're compromising the capability of your Jeep. That will have to be your call.
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