Another lift kit question
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 152
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From: CONCORD, NH
Another lift kit question
Ok, I'm new to Jeeps. I used to have a 06 Frontier 4x4 that i lifted usung PRG products. It was a given due to his reputation on the clubfrontier forumn.
My question, looking for a lift kit to fit max 35 " tires. Been reading up and see that keeping a low center of gravity is better then getting a nose bleed. I do like a high vehicle but I'm going to go with the know how of people who have been working with Jeeps longer then I have. So entry level that I can build on as needed. I will be taking my Jeep off road fishing and hunting to where I go up powerlines and will need to clear stumps and rocks. I prefer coil over spacer and body lifts. Also don't want to purchase a lift that is crap. Any sugestions will be great.
Forgot to add: 2010 JK Sport 2dr with soft top. 6M for tranny and I ordered the Mopar front off road bumper with the Mopar credit they gave me.
My question, looking for a lift kit to fit max 35 " tires. Been reading up and see that keeping a low center of gravity is better then getting a nose bleed. I do like a high vehicle but I'm going to go with the know how of people who have been working with Jeeps longer then I have. So entry level that I can build on as needed. I will be taking my Jeep off road fishing and hunting to where I go up powerlines and will need to clear stumps and rocks. I prefer coil over spacer and body lifts. Also don't want to purchase a lift that is crap. Any sugestions will be great.
Forgot to add: 2010 JK Sport 2dr with soft top. 6M for tranny and I ordered the Mopar front off road bumper with the Mopar credit they gave me.
Last edited by ssgthooligan; Jul 12, 2010 at 06:54 PM.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Start with the FAQ's at the top of this modified area.
Get wheels with the correct backspace, chop your flares or go to flats, add some bumpstop, do some minor trimming and you can run 35's with no lift.
If you go with a coil lift, you're looking at 3+ inches. (check around, but they are all taller than stated...) You will want to start adding more components, up to and including driveshafts. Check this one in the faq's for a full list:
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
Eveyone has different opinions and tolerances for non-stock handling/driving characteristics. Only you can decide what in that list is needed, what is wanted but can be added later, and what is not needed...
Get wheels with the correct backspace, chop your flares or go to flats, add some bumpstop, do some minor trimming and you can run 35's with no lift.
If you go with a coil lift, you're looking at 3+ inches. (check around, but they are all taller than stated...) You will want to start adding more components, up to and including driveshafts. Check this one in the faq's for a full list:
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
Eveyone has different opinions and tolerances for non-stock handling/driving characteristics. Only you can decide what in that list is needed, what is wanted but can be added later, and what is not needed...
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: CONCORD, NH
Start with the FAQ's at the top of this modified area.
Get wheels with the correct backspace, chop your flares or go to flats, add some bumpstop, do some minor trimming and you can run 35's with no lift.
If you go with a coil lift, you're looking at 3+ inches. (check around, but they are all taller than stated...) You will want to start adding more components, up to and including driveshafts. Check this one in the faq's for a full list:
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
Eveyone has different opinions and tolerances for non-stock handling/driving characteristics. Only you can decide what in that list is needed, what is wanted but can be added later, and what is not needed...
Get wheels with the correct backspace, chop your flares or go to flats, add some bumpstop, do some minor trimming and you can run 35's with no lift.
If you go with a coil lift, you're looking at 3+ inches. (check around, but they are all taller than stated...) You will want to start adding more components, up to and including driveshafts. Check this one in the faq's for a full list:
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
Eveyone has different opinions and tolerances for non-stock handling/driving characteristics. Only you can decide what in that list is needed, what is wanted but can be added later, and what is not needed...
Who makes a good lift? I've been looking at Rough Country 4" and rubicon 3 in. Plus about 20 other companies.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
They all have fans and haters, I guess, but TeraFlex, Old Man Emu and Rough Country seem to be very popular here. Best bit of advice for you is to look past the dirt cheap price tag and compare the components included. Is there any caster correction? New links? Axle centering? An option for brake lines? Bumpstops? At the lift height you choose, how much are you going to have to add to make it driveable?
4" on a 2door, plan on a rear driveshaft. And you'll also need rear upper ca's to set it. You'll want a set of front ca's for the caster. See where this is going?
4" on a 2door, plan on a rear driveshaft. And you'll also need rear upper ca's to set it. You'll want a set of front ca's for the caster. See where this is going?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: CONCORD, NH
They all have fans and haters, I guess, but TeraFlex, Old Man Emu and Rough Country seem to be very popular here. Best bit of advice for you is to look past the dirt cheap price tag and compare the components included. Is there any caster correction? New links? Axle centering? An option for brake lines? Bumpstops? At the lift height you choose, how much are you going to have to add to make it driveable?
4" on a 2door, plan on a rear driveshaft. And you'll also need rear upper ca's to set it. You'll want a set of front ca's for the caster. See where this is going?
4" on a 2door, plan on a rear driveshaft. And you'll also need rear upper ca's to set it. You'll want a set of front ca's for the caster. See where this is going?
I just looked at the Rancho Sport lift w/ 9000 shocks. it's 4" lift. I was reading the posts and didn't see where anyone changed out drive shaft yet. If I wheel carefully will it last for a bit? And what needs to be changed on the drive shaft? My friend works at Drive shaft shop and hopefully will help me out. I will go back to that thread and look to see if 2dr model did anything else.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
You have a 2door. It's about lift height and steep angles, not the brand of the lift. Check the 4" kits from the other vendors and you'll see notes on driveshafts. I suppose you could ask why rancho does not mention it...
Trending Topics
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Here is one of the topics...
Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
And another...
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 4" lift?
A: For a 4" lift, you should have a set of 4" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, extended brake lines, longer sway bar links, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, front and rear track bar relocation brackets, dropped pitman arm, adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear and new double cardin u-joint style drive shafts.
A: For a 4" lift, you should have a set of 4" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, extended brake lines, longer sway bar links, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, front and rear track bar relocation brackets, dropped pitman arm, adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear and new double cardin u-joint style drive shafts.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: CONCORD, NH
Wow, I guess I will haveto make a list and start purchasing parts. I have looking at a few systems and also like the 3.0" "Economy" Lift System for Jeep JK Wrangler 2-Door Model
from Full Traction. Looks like I can add to this as I need. Thanks for all your time.
from Full Traction. Looks like I can add to this as I need. Thanks for all your time.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Yep, you can always add on to any kit. The recommendations in the faq's are just that, recommendations. Everyone will have their own opinions on what is 'needed', and everyone will have their own tolerances for the non-stock handling that lifting causes. You know your budget and how you will use your jeep. And only you can decide which components you need, which you want but can add later, and which you can live without.