Big Problem installing Benchmark Oil Pan.
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JK Junkie
Joined: May 2009
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From: The Jersey Shore House
Big Problem installing Benchmark Oil Pan.
So thread says it all, I started out installing the Benchmark oil pan concluding that it didn't have any holes in it to the best of my knowledge(different thread). Followed the write up exactly as it's written. This is where the shit hits the fan, upon re-installing the new oil pan I was hand tightening the OEM screws as it says to and two of them just keep spinning. I readjusted the new pan and tried again swapping the screws out for different ones... same problem, still spins. Upon closer inspection the threads are stripped?!?!?!? from hand tightening??? is the aluminum that weak? Break out the tap and thread and go up one size to an M7 taps clean and threads clean. Go to tighten them town to the spec and spins again!!! FUCK! I'm up shits creek now and don't have an oil pan on the Jeep and don't have any idea what to do. I'm about to call the flatbed and have someone else deal with this mess, because I feel like it's slipping past my ability to be fixed.... Any words of wisdom or should I just get it towed and have my Mechanic fix my mess.
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JK Junkie
Joined: May 2009
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From: The Jersey Shore House
Big Problem installing Benchmark Oil Pan.
The taps were "just tight" not even to the factory spec. I'm gonna deal with this mess in the morning. Maybe run helicoils up through them... Gotta get fixed for this weekend. I'm positive the factory ones were shot since they just spun from hand tightening.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: Lake Stevens, WA
Sounds like the original M6 threads may have been in bad shape from the factory. The factory torque spec for those are 105 in/lbs (9 ft/lbs ).
A few options that are pretty manageable at home:
1. Pull off the aluminum casting and tap & helicoil it on the bench.
2. If the 2 bad holes are not next to each other, you could skip them and as long as you use good RTV like Permatex "The Right Stuff" it's almost certainly not going to leak.
3. See if you can use an M8 self-tapping bolt and run it in.
I'll keep thinking and see if I have any other ideas.
A few options that are pretty manageable at home:
1. Pull off the aluminum casting and tap & helicoil it on the bench.
2. If the 2 bad holes are not next to each other, you could skip them and as long as you use good RTV like Permatex "The Right Stuff" it's almost certainly not going to leak.
3. See if you can use an M8 self-tapping bolt and run it in.
I'll keep thinking and see if I have any other ideas.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: Lake Stevens, WA
Also, just a quick tip -
When using a tap in soft aluminum, try to use a roll tap, not the more common cut tap.
A roll tap "forms" threads, a cut tap "cuts" threads.
Example of a roll tap:
Example of a cut tap:
When using a tap in soft aluminum, try to use a roll tap, not the more common cut tap.
A roll tap "forms" threads, a cut tap "cuts" threads.
Example of a roll tap:
Example of a cut tap:
Last edited by sm_rubi; Aug 11, 2010 at 11:45 AM. Reason: fixed IMG link
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Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,093
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From: The Jersey Shore House
Sounds like the original M6 threads may have been in bad shape from the factory. The factory torque spec for those are 105 in/lbs (9 ft/lbs ).
A few options that are pretty manageable at home:
1. Pull off the aluminum casting and tap & helicoil it on the bench.
2. If the 2 bad holes are not next to each other, you could skip them and as long as you use good RTV like Permatex "The Right Stuff" it's almost certainly not going to leak.
3. See if you can use an M8 self-tapping bolt and run it in.
I'll keep thinking and see if I have any other ideas.
A few options that are pretty manageable at home:
1. Pull off the aluminum casting and tap & helicoil it on the bench.
2. If the 2 bad holes are not next to each other, you could skip them and as long as you use good RTV like Permatex "The Right Stuff" it's almost certainly not going to leak.
3. See if you can use an M8 self-tapping bolt and run it in.
I'll keep thinking and see if I have any other ideas.
I'm gonna try helicoil first...
JK Super Freak
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From: Middle of no where
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,093
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From: The Jersey Shore House
I didn't want to use JB weld because it's not the easiest fix to reverse if ever needed. That would be a lst ditch option.
And as for that Aluminum housing it looks like it goes back into the trans and I'm not exactly sure how that comes off without pulling the trans apart
And as for that Aluminum housing it looks like it goes back into the trans and I'm not exactly sure how that comes off without pulling the trans apart