Most lift for a '09 2 Dr without changing drive shafts?
Is it 4" ? 3.5"? Any specific recommendations on lifts that will let me run 35's without changing driveshafts or any other major mods? Thanks!
'09 2 Dr Rubi
'09 2 Dr Rubi
It's not the height it's the length of the extended shock that destroys driveshafts. You really should stick with a 3" lift and 27" long shocks.
You should be alright with something that nets less than 3"(new TF 2.5" for a 2DR). There's not a huge selection of coil lifts netting less than 3". Above that, you're eventually going to be replacing the front and rear DS.
You might want to look into a leveling kit or budget boost(BB) lift, if you're not trying to spend much. These lifts are just pucks that sit above your stock coils.
You might want to look into a leveling kit or budget boost(BB) lift, if you're not trying to spend much. These lifts are just pucks that sit above your stock coils.
The way to do 35's for a two door, (going cheapest to most expensive):
2" Budget Boost with shock extenders (several good companies make these)
TeraFlex 2.5" Coil Spring lift with shock extenders
Rusty's 2" coil spring lift with shocks
OME 2" coil spring lift with shocks
Plus a set of rims with about 4.5-5" of backspacing or Spidertrax spacers.
Then some fender trimming or flat flares. I did the Rusty's 2" coil spring lift plus a .75" spacer on both my JK's and I ran 35" tires on both with no problems. It depends on how deep your pockets are.
2" Budget Boost with shock extenders (several good companies make these)
TeraFlex 2.5" Coil Spring lift with shock extenders
Rusty's 2" coil spring lift with shocks
OME 2" coil spring lift with shocks
Plus a set of rims with about 4.5-5" of backspacing or Spidertrax spacers.
Then some fender trimming or flat flares. I did the Rusty's 2" coil spring lift plus a .75" spacer on both my JK's and I ran 35" tires on both with no problems. It depends on how deep your pockets are.
Short answer is less than 3" of physical suspension lift for a 2 door. The auto trans will take less due to the front shaft being longer and hitting the transmission support. During flex generally the shock length limits travel, which is what the FT guy is talking about. As the axle drops obviously the angle at the joint will be greater.
Here are some pics of mine.
First the front DS with a manual trans 3.5 Rubicon express coil lift. This is sitting on flat ground, not flexed. As you can see this joint will be wearing at a accelerated rate and will need to be replaced soon but is does work. The rear would have been worse due to the shorter distance between the trans and rear differential.

After research I bought a rear DS at the same time as my lift. As you can see the double U-joint takes the angles better than the factory CV style joint. The last pic is what a DS should look like with pinion angle corrected.


Hope the pics help to get a visual of the problem.
Here are some pics of mine.
First the front DS with a manual trans 3.5 Rubicon express coil lift. This is sitting on flat ground, not flexed. As you can see this joint will be wearing at a accelerated rate and will need to be replaced soon but is does work. The rear would have been worse due to the shorter distance between the trans and rear differential.

After research I bought a rear DS at the same time as my lift. As you can see the double U-joint takes the angles better than the factory CV style joint. The last pic is what a DS should look like with pinion angle corrected.


Hope the pics help to get a visual of the problem.


