Going 40s and King Coilovers...which airbumps
#1
Going 40s and King Coilovers...which airbumps
Ok Ive searched the shite on this forum all night reading up on peoples expeiences with ORE coilover setups as opposed to going for front and rear coilover brackets, then incorporating the king coilovers into it. As funds allow later on, ill add on bypass shocks and probably the teraflex bare longarm upgrade kit. Im currently sitting on 35" mud grapplers but in 2 months this will change to trail ready hd17 b/locks on 40x13.5x17 mud grapplers. Few questions that, without loosing anyone, ill just list in point form
- considering i will add longarm, would I still be fine running 14" coilovers front
and rear, considering ill be running the stock arms for about 6 months?
- not sure which way to go regarding air bumpstops from either king, fox, teraflex
etc. Ive heard that the teraflex speedbumps give a smoother ride than the
kings, anyone with experience?
- am I defeating the purpose of running airbumps in the front only for now, then
later add the rears? Also, 2 or 4" travel on the bumps?
- Ill be looking at rear coilover conversion which
also gives provisions to run the currie antirock through the top coilover mount.
These have the shock mounts higher up..still run 14" coilovers in the rear?
- ride height: how does it work with coilovers? I know they are adjustable but
surely you dont be a goose and just crank it up to 8" without considering
steering/sway links/trackbar/control arms?
Yep, first coilover rig One of those "I want the best and will get the best...as funds allow" scenarios. Ive been pretty happy with the 4" superlift and ranch 9000xl shocks up until now, but it just needs more flex and stability at speed....and an all-round improvement in general.
Cheers in advance
- considering i will add longarm, would I still be fine running 14" coilovers front
and rear, considering ill be running the stock arms for about 6 months?
- not sure which way to go regarding air bumpstops from either king, fox, teraflex
etc. Ive heard that the teraflex speedbumps give a smoother ride than the
kings, anyone with experience?
- am I defeating the purpose of running airbumps in the front only for now, then
later add the rears? Also, 2 or 4" travel on the bumps?
- Ill be looking at rear coilover conversion which
also gives provisions to run the currie antirock through the top coilover mount.
These have the shock mounts higher up..still run 14" coilovers in the rear?
- ride height: how does it work with coilovers? I know they are adjustable but
surely you dont be a goose and just crank it up to 8" without considering
steering/sway links/trackbar/control arms?
Yep, first coilover rig One of those "I want the best and will get the best...as funds allow" scenarios. Ive been pretty happy with the 4" superlift and ranch 9000xl shocks up until now, but it just needs more flex and stability at speed....and an all-round improvement in general.
Cheers in advance
Last edited by Robar; 04-27-2011 at 06:33 AM. Reason: Blacklisted manufacturer
#2
I don't think you will be able to run the stock control arms with the 14" coilovers, just too much height. The pinion angles are going to be a bit severe without adjustable control arms. Forum member "Corona Doug" just had a nice thread documenting his build at ORE. He experienced some really bad driveline vibrations because of the non-adjustble control arms, basically had to take the jeep back and have new adjustable ones put on.
As for the bump stops, I am biased and partial to King's, but really any of the ones you listed are going to be a great addition. And like you said, add the bypass shock later, and thats even if you are going to need it. You may find the air bumps are more than enough. Good luck with the build
As for the bump stops, I am biased and partial to King's, but really any of the ones you listed are going to be a great addition. And like you said, add the bypass shock later, and thats even if you are going to need it. You may find the air bumps are more than enough. Good luck with the build
#4
Sorry, should have been 12" in the first place.
GCM 2, I thought someone might jump in and say I probably wont even need to resort to bypass shocks At least the coilovers with remote reservoir and airbumps will be a good place to start (and probably finish). Also, some people are running no swaybar in the rear?? How good is that with highway driving? I would imagine it would be pretty damn good offroad (maybe a bit excessive rolling left-right) can someone shed any info here?
dlinc, what height are you looking to run overall with the system and are you using flat fenders? I really cant see myself pushing the height any more than 6" as i dont wanna go spoiling everything with a high c.o.g, or at least taming the driving down so I dont roll You have adjustable control arms as well?
Until I get the long arm upgrade which probably wont be too long after the coilovers (max 4-6 months) I got no problems keeping the ride height to 4-5" with flat fenders and not wheelin hard at all. Also like the bypass shocks, are the coilovers still adjustable in stiffness? Not including the initial valving and spring rates when I order them.
GCM 2, I thought someone might jump in and say I probably wont even need to resort to bypass shocks At least the coilovers with remote reservoir and airbumps will be a good place to start (and probably finish). Also, some people are running no swaybar in the rear?? How good is that with highway driving? I would imagine it would be pretty damn good offroad (maybe a bit excessive rolling left-right) can someone shed any info here?
dlinc, what height are you looking to run overall with the system and are you using flat fenders? I really cant see myself pushing the height any more than 6" as i dont wanna go spoiling everything with a high c.o.g, or at least taming the driving down so I dont roll You have adjustable control arms as well?
Until I get the long arm upgrade which probably wont be too long after the coilovers (max 4-6 months) I got no problems keeping the ride height to 4-5" with flat fenders and not wheelin hard at all. Also like the bypass shocks, are the coilovers still adjustable in stiffness? Not including the initial valving and spring rates when I order them.
#5
Also, some people are running no swaybar in the rear?? How good is that with highway driving? I would imagine it would be pretty damn good offroad (maybe a bit excessive rolling left-right) can someone shed any info here?
I really cant see myself pushing the height any more than 6" as i dont wanna go spoiling everything with a high c.o.g, or at least taming the driving down so I dont roll You have adjustable control arms as well?
Also like the bypass shocks, are the coilovers still adjustable in stiffness? Not including the initial valving and spring rates when I order them.
I really cant see myself pushing the height any more than 6" as i dont wanna go spoiling everything with a high c.o.g, or at least taming the driving down so I dont roll You have adjustable control arms as well?
Also like the bypass shocks, are the coilovers still adjustable in stiffness? Not including the initial valving and spring rates when I order them.
I would not recommend running without the sway bar on the road, the jeep will feel deadly in long and fast turns and also in the slower sharper ones too. Offroad it would be no issues.
The coil rates will determine the majority of the intial and secondary softness/stiffness (because of the two different coils rates for the upper and lower) and the custom valving will determine how quickly you feel it and or recover from it.
Last edited by GCM 2; 04-27-2011 at 08:37 AM.
#6
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I plan to run probably a teraflex 4 inch coil in the rear with possibly a 1 inch spacer and then around 4- 5 inches of lift in the front. i have a teraflex 3 inch kit right now and im not really sure how much actual lift i got from it so im just going to wait and see.
I do have adjustable arms.
I am going to run the rebel offroad bolt on coilover kit for the front because i can do all the work myself. I all ready have my coilovers which have 300lbs 12" bottom springs and 250lbs 12" top springs. They are 12" king coilovers with remote reservoirs. I also plan to run king hydraulic bump stops. All on a short arm lift. Now i probably will upgrade to long arm in the future but right now my plans are to get my custom 79 kingpin dana 60 working in the front with coilovers then mess with the rear next summer because i am in college and cannot work right now.
I do have adjustable arms.
I am going to run the rebel offroad bolt on coilover kit for the front because i can do all the work myself. I all ready have my coilovers which have 300lbs 12" bottom springs and 250lbs 12" top springs. They are 12" king coilovers with remote reservoirs. I also plan to run king hydraulic bump stops. All on a short arm lift. Now i probably will upgrade to long arm in the future but right now my plans are to get my custom 79 kingpin dana 60 working in the front with coilovers then mess with the rear next summer because i am in college and cannot work right now.
#7
yeh I hear u about the valving and spring rates...these kings seem like a pretty plush option for coilovers. Id love to so the evolever in the rear as well but, $$$. Whatever I do get will be done by myself; I dont trust any of the workshop dudes over here in AU to NOT take me for a ride in installation...but I prefer to do it all myself as its all education Been practicing my welds too.
Is the coilover tower with the ORE fronts in the same place as the stock shock tower? The ORE longarm upgrade is looking pretty good now as well, brackets are nice n high which is a first ive seen on the jks for long arm...
Is the coilover tower with the ORE fronts in the same place as the stock shock tower? The ORE longarm upgrade is looking pretty good now as well, brackets are nice n high which is a first ive seen on the jks for long arm...
Trending Topics
#8
yeh I hear u about the valving and spring rates...these kings seem like a pretty plush option for coilovers. Id love to so the evolever in the rear as well but, $$$. Whatever I do get will be done by myself; I dont trust any of the workshop dudes over here in AU to NOT take me for a ride in installation...but I prefer to do it all myself as its all education Been practicing my welds too.
Is the coilover tower with the ORE fronts in the same place as the stock shock tower? The ORE longarm upgrade is looking pretty good now as well, brackets are nice n high which is a first ive seen on the jks for long arm...
Is the coilover tower with the ORE fronts in the same place as the stock shock tower? The ORE longarm upgrade is looking pretty good now as well, brackets are nice n high which is a first ive seen on the jks for long arm...
Attachment 154676 Attachment 154677 Attachment 154678 Attachment 154679 Attachment 154686
#10
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Lucerne Valley
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Idk if any one posted this . But 14" stroke shock in front will limit your up travel ( longer shock body )so if you are going to run 40s then get 14". And slap some limit straps on it for droop until u get long arm. I am running 12" kings on mine with a short arm kit with adjustable arms. I go back and forth between 37" and 39". I went with 12" to be able to stuff the tire better. And when I go long Arm in next couple weeks I will be changing the lower axel mount ( raising it 3-4 inches ) which will allow for more droop than a 14".