RIPP "SDS" Supercharger Drive System GEN2 Install.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: FW, WA
RIPP "SDS" Supercharger Drive System GEN2 Install.
Thoughts/Scenarios of my Supercharger Install. Hopefully this will aid the next person that installs this kit…
Instructions GEN-2 Stage 2 JEEP Wrangler 3.8 Rev 5
“Step 6A Push red locking clip out to unplug injectors.” Not right… Actually a small screw driver was used to initially help slide red clip up the connector then lightly pull with fingers until clip travel maxes out, about an additional 1/8”
On the passenger side injectors, lightly squeeze inside the front window that was covered by the red clip with your thumb and injector connector assy will come off.
On the Drivers side injectors lightly squeeze the aft/back window that was covered by the red clip with your finger tip and the injector connector assy will come off.
Before removing the injectors I used a can of brake clean and an air nozzle to spay out all contaminates/dirt in the injector area with shop air nozzle. I also used WD40 prior to removing the injectors from the rail. By doing this every oring stayed on the original injector. I used WD40 to lube the new orings and seat the new injectors as well.
On step “6B press each injector till it hits bottom” Actually the injector has a register slot on it where the clip locks it into place. This is actually how far in the rail the injector needs to be installed.
Step “8B To save a step you can pre-install the Cast Aluminum air filter housing (Step 11).” I didn’t and had to remove the Supercharger later on to do this correctly. Also for what ever the reason there is no chamfer/lead in on the housing. I ended up polishing up the housing and supercharger mating area with scotch bite and WD40 to allow the housing to go over the Supercharger without a scratching/toolmarking interference. I also used a rotary file to remove material from the radiator shroud so this piece can now be removed with out having to remove the entire supercharger. It has a tighter fit than the install in the instruction picture, I have a feeling the jeep used in the pic was an Unlimited.
I installed locking washers that are not included with two brackets to prevent kit nuts from coming off and used nylocks on the top brackets on the cooler as it didn’t include any locking devices with its hardware either.
Step “9A says to use the template on the last page of the instructions.” The template takes material from the gill shroud for pipe clearance. The template takes more material on the bottom side than the top according to the pictures in the instructions. That was just the opposite in my jeeps case, on both sides of the jeep the trimmed area required more to be taken from the top. The template worked well just had to reverse how it was used in the instruction pictures.
Step “9C Piping diagram” I tried using the diagram and making the pipes fit for about an hour. It just wasn’t happening. After looking it over, I swapped pipe #2 with pipe #3 this worked nice if it where not for the coolant reservoir being in the way. I pulled the coolant reservoir and using a cutting wheel cut the web area between the tank and the fill tube about 6” down. I put a 12 guage wire in the fill hole and using a heat gun heated up the fill tube and bent it towards the center of the engine from the factory 90* to about a 45 degree angle. After it cooled I pulled the wire out. Then heated the area of the tank where the new tubing runs by. I then used a piece of 3” pipe to act as a concaving mold making another ˝” of extra clearance. Then reinstalled the overflow tank. As it turned out the extra ˝” of clearance was probably not needed but the gap from the pipe looks nice anyway. There is a slight misalignment between the Pipe 2 and Bypass valve pipe 4. In order to make it perfect would require to trim 3/16” from the 45* boot on the throttle body side. However, this would effect the muffler hose that goes from the Bypass and the Air filter housing. So it is what it is…
“Diablo Instructions Setup” What a bunch of bunk. The instructions show doing the download last. It should be attempted first as it is not going to go as easy as the instructions show. You will need an internet connection, there is going to be an update required when you initially try to download the new program. My biggest problem was getting the supplied cable to communicate with the downloader and the computer. The supplied CD was missing a file called “ser2pl.sys” I verified this by trying it on both of my windows XP computers. I went to a neighbors house went to the Diablo site and downloaded Vista driver software for his Vista computer. Actually tried both drivers (old and new) they listed on the Diablo site and neither worked. Before giving up I tried the included disk and its Vista drivers worked with his computer this then allowed me to update the tuner.
Initially there was a porpusing/rubber band power at 2000-2200 rpm, after tightening the blow off valve a ˝ turn this went away.
Starting is no longer smooth as it was before installing the kit. It starts every time but it is rougher kind of reminds me how a mower starts when its low on gas, followed by idling properly.
Unfortunately, there still is low torque below 2000 rpms, Almost same as the hypertec program alone had. V6 still is what it is down there.
Problems with my kit,
1. One of the included spark plugs had to be replaced as the porcelain area had a crack in it.
2. Pipe 4 the Bypass pipe had a damaged/oblong opening in the area where it goes into the 45* boot. That I straightened as best as I could without damaging the aluminum pipe and its plating.
3. The fitting that goes into the air filter is plastic/threaded. This is a cheese dic design for this application. I removed the fitting tapped the hole to close it some and ran a tap through the hole. Then put some rtv on the threads of the plastic fitting and threaded it in. It seems to be a pretty good fit but later on I will get a brass fitting with a nut on it to replace the plastic one.
4. According to the instructions I was supposed to of received 3 bottles of spare oil for the Supercharger. I only received two.
Total time required to do this project correctly 16 hrs.
Blower requires first $11 oil change within 1000 miles and every 8000 miles there after.
After installing I found “RIPP Superchargers GEN2 Supercharger kit Install for Wrangler 07-2011” on youtube. After watching that video I wrote to the RIPP email address to see if they required my original tune for updating . This part was not in my instructions that came with the kit. It has only been 4 days but perhaps we will get that answer here quicker…
Instructions GEN-2 Stage 2 JEEP Wrangler 3.8 Rev 5
“Step 6A Push red locking clip out to unplug injectors.” Not right… Actually a small screw driver was used to initially help slide red clip up the connector then lightly pull with fingers until clip travel maxes out, about an additional 1/8”
On the passenger side injectors, lightly squeeze inside the front window that was covered by the red clip with your thumb and injector connector assy will come off.
On the Drivers side injectors lightly squeeze the aft/back window that was covered by the red clip with your finger tip and the injector connector assy will come off.
Before removing the injectors I used a can of brake clean and an air nozzle to spay out all contaminates/dirt in the injector area with shop air nozzle. I also used WD40 prior to removing the injectors from the rail. By doing this every oring stayed on the original injector. I used WD40 to lube the new orings and seat the new injectors as well.
On step “6B press each injector till it hits bottom” Actually the injector has a register slot on it where the clip locks it into place. This is actually how far in the rail the injector needs to be installed.
Step “8B To save a step you can pre-install the Cast Aluminum air filter housing (Step 11).” I didn’t and had to remove the Supercharger later on to do this correctly. Also for what ever the reason there is no chamfer/lead in on the housing. I ended up polishing up the housing and supercharger mating area with scotch bite and WD40 to allow the housing to go over the Supercharger without a scratching/toolmarking interference. I also used a rotary file to remove material from the radiator shroud so this piece can now be removed with out having to remove the entire supercharger. It has a tighter fit than the install in the instruction picture, I have a feeling the jeep used in the pic was an Unlimited.
I installed locking washers that are not included with two brackets to prevent kit nuts from coming off and used nylocks on the top brackets on the cooler as it didn’t include any locking devices with its hardware either.
Step “9A says to use the template on the last page of the instructions.” The template takes material from the gill shroud for pipe clearance. The template takes more material on the bottom side than the top according to the pictures in the instructions. That was just the opposite in my jeeps case, on both sides of the jeep the trimmed area required more to be taken from the top. The template worked well just had to reverse how it was used in the instruction pictures.
Step “9C Piping diagram” I tried using the diagram and making the pipes fit for about an hour. It just wasn’t happening. After looking it over, I swapped pipe #2 with pipe #3 this worked nice if it where not for the coolant reservoir being in the way. I pulled the coolant reservoir and using a cutting wheel cut the web area between the tank and the fill tube about 6” down. I put a 12 guage wire in the fill hole and using a heat gun heated up the fill tube and bent it towards the center of the engine from the factory 90* to about a 45 degree angle. After it cooled I pulled the wire out. Then heated the area of the tank where the new tubing runs by. I then used a piece of 3” pipe to act as a concaving mold making another ˝” of extra clearance. Then reinstalled the overflow tank. As it turned out the extra ˝” of clearance was probably not needed but the gap from the pipe looks nice anyway. There is a slight misalignment between the Pipe 2 and Bypass valve pipe 4. In order to make it perfect would require to trim 3/16” from the 45* boot on the throttle body side. However, this would effect the muffler hose that goes from the Bypass and the Air filter housing. So it is what it is…
“Diablo Instructions Setup” What a bunch of bunk. The instructions show doing the download last. It should be attempted first as it is not going to go as easy as the instructions show. You will need an internet connection, there is going to be an update required when you initially try to download the new program. My biggest problem was getting the supplied cable to communicate with the downloader and the computer. The supplied CD was missing a file called “ser2pl.sys” I verified this by trying it on both of my windows XP computers. I went to a neighbors house went to the Diablo site and downloaded Vista driver software for his Vista computer. Actually tried both drivers (old and new) they listed on the Diablo site and neither worked. Before giving up I tried the included disk and its Vista drivers worked with his computer this then allowed me to update the tuner.
Initially there was a porpusing/rubber band power at 2000-2200 rpm, after tightening the blow off valve a ˝ turn this went away.
Starting is no longer smooth as it was before installing the kit. It starts every time but it is rougher kind of reminds me how a mower starts when its low on gas, followed by idling properly.
Unfortunately, there still is low torque below 2000 rpms, Almost same as the hypertec program alone had. V6 still is what it is down there.
Problems with my kit,
1. One of the included spark plugs had to be replaced as the porcelain area had a crack in it.
2. Pipe 4 the Bypass pipe had a damaged/oblong opening in the area where it goes into the 45* boot. That I straightened as best as I could without damaging the aluminum pipe and its plating.
3. The fitting that goes into the air filter is plastic/threaded. This is a cheese dic design for this application. I removed the fitting tapped the hole to close it some and ran a tap through the hole. Then put some rtv on the threads of the plastic fitting and threaded it in. It seems to be a pretty good fit but later on I will get a brass fitting with a nut on it to replace the plastic one.
4. According to the instructions I was supposed to of received 3 bottles of spare oil for the Supercharger. I only received two.
Total time required to do this project correctly 16 hrs.
Blower requires first $11 oil change within 1000 miles and every 8000 miles there after.
After installing I found “RIPP Superchargers GEN2 Supercharger kit Install for Wrangler 07-2011” on youtube. After watching that video I wrote to the RIPP email address to see if they required my original tune for updating . This part was not in my instructions that came with the kit. It has only been 4 days but perhaps we will get that answer here quicker…
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 676
Likes: 0
From: Cabot, AR
I just installed my Ripp SC Saturday.
I needed to use a screwdriver to lift the red locking tabs on the injectors myself but I don't have fingernails. Really was not an issue. I only had to depress the black tab that was under the red locking tab to release all six injectors.
The fuel rail was much more difficult to remove than I had expected. I had never removed one before so it was more my being unfamilair than anything. After speaking to a couple friends I was told that is common for anything that has several thousand miles on it.
Pre-installing the Cast Aluminum air filter housing is a must. I did not either and played hell not to take everything back apart but I was able to do it. Took me an additional 20 minutes of fighting but saved the hassle of taking the SC loose.
I agree with you on the piping template. I needed to cut more at the top on what would be the right side.
I had all my lock washers but several other SC owners recommended using blue loctite so she got that too.
The piping gave me more trouble than anything else. I too am hitting the radiator overflow tank. I have a little more than 1/4 clearance from the idler pulley. Maybe that is normal. I have driven 15 hours now and checked many times. Nothing is moving and I still have the same amount of space. I did not swap tubes #2 & #3.
Sorry to hear you had problems with the CD. Mine installed no problem and I have Windows 7. As far as the tune goes I did not even look at the instructions because I already had Ripp Headers so I was familiar with installing a custom tune. I have not tested the MAP sensor yet and gotten my BARO reading.
I had no problems with my kit. Everything was there and in good condition. I only recieved two bottles of oil too. I assumed the third was the pre-filled oil in the unit.
Took me 8 hours
I needed to use a screwdriver to lift the red locking tabs on the injectors myself but I don't have fingernails. Really was not an issue. I only had to depress the black tab that was under the red locking tab to release all six injectors.
The fuel rail was much more difficult to remove than I had expected. I had never removed one before so it was more my being unfamilair than anything. After speaking to a couple friends I was told that is common for anything that has several thousand miles on it.
Pre-installing the Cast Aluminum air filter housing is a must. I did not either and played hell not to take everything back apart but I was able to do it. Took me an additional 20 minutes of fighting but saved the hassle of taking the SC loose.
I agree with you on the piping template. I needed to cut more at the top on what would be the right side.
I had all my lock washers but several other SC owners recommended using blue loctite so she got that too.
The piping gave me more trouble than anything else. I too am hitting the radiator overflow tank. I have a little more than 1/4 clearance from the idler pulley. Maybe that is normal. I have driven 15 hours now and checked many times. Nothing is moving and I still have the same amount of space. I did not swap tubes #2 & #3.
Sorry to hear you had problems with the CD. Mine installed no problem and I have Windows 7. As far as the tune goes I did not even look at the instructions because I already had Ripp Headers so I was familiar with installing a custom tune. I have not tested the MAP sensor yet and gotten my BARO reading.
I had no problems with my kit. Everything was there and in good condition. I only recieved two bottles of oil too. I assumed the third was the pre-filled oil in the unit.
Took me 8 hours
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 2
From: New York
All tune issues go to ripptuning@gmail.com
When we approach piping we leave it all lose until it gets to where it needs to be. There is enough play in all the pipes to get you around the OEM hardware, we can revisit our jigs to be sure. We do installs in house from time to time and its a product of patience.
Injectors are very straight forward and we try to make it as clear as possible to the end user of any skill set.
Tunes do not need to be emailed first - the video was done 3rd party before we offered Diablos tuners with pre-installed calibrations. The tunes are now included on the tool and can be installed in one step. If a tune update is required simply contact ripptuning@gmail.com and they will walk you through the process.
RIPPTECH
When we approach piping we leave it all lose until it gets to where it needs to be. There is enough play in all the pipes to get you around the OEM hardware, we can revisit our jigs to be sure. We do installs in house from time to time and its a product of patience.
Injectors are very straight forward and we try to make it as clear as possible to the end user of any skill set.
Tunes do not need to be emailed first - the video was done 3rd party before we offered Diablos tuners with pre-installed calibrations. The tunes are now included on the tool and can be installed in one step. If a tune update is required simply contact ripptuning@gmail.com and they will walk you through the process.
RIPPTECH