King 2.5 Bypass Shocks Fitment Issue w/ possible solution
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Temecula, CA
King 2.5 Bypass Shocks Fitment Issue w/ possible solution
To start off, here is what I currently have on the front of my Jeep's suspension:
Teraflex 2.5 coils w/ a 1 inch spacer
JKS Adjustable Track bar
Teraflex Adjustable control arms
I am switching from Bilstein 5100's for a 3 - 5 inch lift.
A couple days ago I installed a set of 2.5 Bypass shocks that are for a 3 - 5 inch lift. They were so hard to compress that I had to fully droop my suspension. This is when I noticed a slight problem. When my axle is fully drooped, it pulls hard over to the driver side. This is normal, so why is it a problem? Well, because the way the Kings mount, with the large shock body on top of the shock, it was contacting my frame. It was enough to where I could not even come close to bolting in the lower shock mount. so I disconnected my track bar and shifted my axle over about a half inch to the passenger side. This gave me maybe an 1/8th inch of clearance between the passenger side shock body and the frame. So, I tightened everything back up and put it back on the ground. Now at ride height, I looked over at the driver side shock, and now it was about an eighth inch away from contacting the frame. That kind of makes sense as well because the axle shifted back over as it cycled up. So I was a little lost on what to do because if I leave it the way it is, when I bottom out the driver side wheel the driver side shock will contact the frame. So I made some calls to ask professionals if they have ever encountered this problem before. Everyone seemed a little stumped and said they had never heard of this. The basic answer was: well, do you plan on jumping your jeep to where you fully extend both sides? No, but, I was thinking that the axle would have the same shift left and right if both wheels fully droop than it does when it fully articulates. So I started thinking. Maybe not. So I re-centered the axle at ride height and went and articulated it. No matter how I adjusted the track bar, it would hit on one of the sides. I even thought outside the box and lifted the front end about an inch or so, to simulate that I had a four inch lift, and centered it there. Thinking that maybe if the shocks are centered at the middle of their travel, I could avoid the contact.
Possible Solution
So I started to think. Off road evolution probably installs more Kings on JK's than most others. So what do their kits have that I don't. The answer is: A drag link flip kit. This seems like it could help and here is why: it raises the track bar 3 inches; which, in return would put the track bar more parallel to the ground. The more parallel to the ground the track bar is, the less lateral movement the axle will have when it cycles up and down. Right?
The way I compensated for the lift I have is by using an adjustable track bar to re-center the axle. This would put the track bar at more of angle and cause it to shift more laterally as the suspension cycles. So why wasn't this a problem before? I think it has always been happening but I never noticed because the Bilstein's mount inverted compared to the kings. So as the suspension fully droops, the rod of the shock is left closest to the frame; giving it plenty of clearance.
I have already ordered the Evo 4inch plush rides to deal with the stiffness of the Non Evo Spec'd Kings and Teraflex 2.5 springs that I currently have. I hope that this will yield a better ride on the street. So, if anyone was worried that I couldn't do the drag link flip kit because it's for kits that have 4 inches or more, that problem is soon to be rectified.
Has anyone ever had to deal with this problem before? Or, what do you think about my possible solution. I hope I was able to convey this in a way that is easily understandable. Any input would definitely be appreciated.Thank you.
Nate
Teraflex 2.5 coils w/ a 1 inch spacer
JKS Adjustable Track bar
Teraflex Adjustable control arms
I am switching from Bilstein 5100's for a 3 - 5 inch lift.
A couple days ago I installed a set of 2.5 Bypass shocks that are for a 3 - 5 inch lift. They were so hard to compress that I had to fully droop my suspension. This is when I noticed a slight problem. When my axle is fully drooped, it pulls hard over to the driver side. This is normal, so why is it a problem? Well, because the way the Kings mount, with the large shock body on top of the shock, it was contacting my frame. It was enough to where I could not even come close to bolting in the lower shock mount. so I disconnected my track bar and shifted my axle over about a half inch to the passenger side. This gave me maybe an 1/8th inch of clearance between the passenger side shock body and the frame. So, I tightened everything back up and put it back on the ground. Now at ride height, I looked over at the driver side shock, and now it was about an eighth inch away from contacting the frame. That kind of makes sense as well because the axle shifted back over as it cycled up. So I was a little lost on what to do because if I leave it the way it is, when I bottom out the driver side wheel the driver side shock will contact the frame. So I made some calls to ask professionals if they have ever encountered this problem before. Everyone seemed a little stumped and said they had never heard of this. The basic answer was: well, do you plan on jumping your jeep to where you fully extend both sides? No, but, I was thinking that the axle would have the same shift left and right if both wheels fully droop than it does when it fully articulates. So I started thinking. Maybe not. So I re-centered the axle at ride height and went and articulated it. No matter how I adjusted the track bar, it would hit on one of the sides. I even thought outside the box and lifted the front end about an inch or so, to simulate that I had a four inch lift, and centered it there. Thinking that maybe if the shocks are centered at the middle of their travel, I could avoid the contact.
Possible Solution
So I started to think. Off road evolution probably installs more Kings on JK's than most others. So what do their kits have that I don't. The answer is: A drag link flip kit. This seems like it could help and here is why: it raises the track bar 3 inches; which, in return would put the track bar more parallel to the ground. The more parallel to the ground the track bar is, the less lateral movement the axle will have when it cycles up and down. Right?
The way I compensated for the lift I have is by using an adjustable track bar to re-center the axle. This would put the track bar at more of angle and cause it to shift more laterally as the suspension cycles. So why wasn't this a problem before? I think it has always been happening but I never noticed because the Bilstein's mount inverted compared to the kings. So as the suspension fully droops, the rod of the shock is left closest to the frame; giving it plenty of clearance.
I have already ordered the Evo 4inch plush rides to deal with the stiffness of the Non Evo Spec'd Kings and Teraflex 2.5 springs that I currently have. I hope that this will yield a better ride on the street. So, if anyone was worried that I couldn't do the drag link flip kit because it's for kits that have 4 inches or more, that problem is soon to be rectified.
Has anyone ever had to deal with this problem before? Or, what do you think about my possible solution. I hope I was able to convey this in a way that is easily understandable. Any input would definitely be appreciated.Thank you.
Nate
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 350
Likes: 2
From: Kemah, TX
If your adding the front drag link flip kit, which raises the axle side mount for your track bar. What are you doing for the rear? You should also raise the rear track bar mount 3" to keep the geo the same as the front. But YES good plan with the 4" plush rides from EVO!! Bought time... Also another easy fix would be to cut off all your mounting tabs and mount coil overs on the fromt and the EVO lever on the rear lol. Just go for it man, your wife won't be tooo mad that you maxed out 4 cards to get it. But seriouly, id start with the drag link, coils and rear track bar mount. Then see where your at as far as clearance.... What about the guys JKU that you got the Kings from? Was he not having this issue? Or being a CMC he didn't have to worry about it unless he hit a speed bump. Also did the 90psi help out any or are they still super hard?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Temecula, CA
Originally Posted by YETI-09
If your adding the front drag link flip kit, which raises the axle side mount for your track bar. What are you doing for the rear? You should also raise the rear track bar mount 3" to keep the geo the same as the front. But YES good plan with the 4" plush rides from EVO!! Bought time... Also another easy fix would be to cut off all your mounting tabs and mount coil overs on the fromt and the EVO lever on the rear lol. Just go for it man, your wife won't be tooo mad that you maxed out 4 cards to get it. But seriouly, id start with the drag link, coils and rear track bar mount. Then see where your at as far as clearance.... What about the guys JKU that you got the Kings from? Was he not having this issue? Or being a CMC he didn't have to worry about it unless he hit a speed bump. Also did the 90psi help out any or are they still super hard?
Oh and I love the idea for your easy fix. I would love the coilovers and Evo lever.