So I am no genius when it comes to protection. I know on my Rubicon I have a transfer case skid and trans skid (auto). Looking at the Rock hard skids, would it be better to get the entire set or are there ones I do not need?

 

I have the rock hard oil/trans skid. I would like the whole set (minus the evap, I relocated), but I could only afford the oil/trans right now. It covers everything from the oil pan to the tranny crossmember. Yes, the jk has a stock transfer case and gas tank skid. But they are both very light duty skids. They bend and deform pretty easily. The rockhard one is built like a tank!

 

Since there are no docs... Do you have any pointers for the engine skid? It's the one with the most parts, and I'm not sure where they all go. :-)

Thanks,
js.

 

Check out this thread: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ht=engine+skid
There's a couple of picts that may help. I bought one of the first sets that came out and the engine skid has been a real SOB. So help me I love Rock Hard products but those wouldn't provide instructions to save their lives.

After much discussion we (Rock Hard and I) have determined they neglected to grind off the corners of the brackets going from the engine skid to the front hole of the motor mounts. I haven't gone in to reinstall yet so I don't have any picts. But I'll try to talk you through it. The brackets bolt up to the outside (underneath) the front (empty) holes of the motor mounts. Once you have the four bolts very loosely started in the back (floor jack really helps lend some support) you'll see the brackets will only work for the side they're designed for. The bottom end of the brackets go inside the lip of the skid and of course the bolts go through the holes with the nuts on the inside.

For the one hole in the back that's not threaded (the far right hole), you'll need to tape one of the nuts onto a box end with a washer siliconed onto its bottom and slip it into the slot on the cross member. Line it up with the hole on the skid.

Make sure you have 1/4-1/2" clearance between the front of the oil pan and the skid before you tighten everything. There's a side bracket that bolts into the frame on the driver's side and it'll line up with the part of the skid that's slanting down. I'm thinking that's where that little bracket with the 2 elongated holes goes. You'll use those two pan head allen bolts there. You should be able to tell whether that plate goes above or underneath the skid fairly easily. It'll bolt into the larger threaded hole on the bottom of the frame closest to the left front wheel. It's only a challenge if you're running Shrockworks sliders. That took me some time to figure out as it goes between the frame and slider bracket.

I'll say this first: and sorry, but right now it's 13 dgrees outside at 1:30 in the afternoon and I'm not even thinking of reinstalling this until it warms way up.
Let me know about that little side plate if you get to this before I do.
Cheers and good luck.
P.S. Drove this (tank, transfer and engine skid) setup through Moab. They really took a pounding and just have a few scratches to show for it.

 

seer1,

Phew... Thanks for all that.

I grabbed all of Eddie's shots of the crayola demo, but this is the only one that shows an engine mount (look carefully). :-) So you're saying those 2 brackets mount to the _bottom_ of the engine mounts, and _inside_ the skid plate, correct?



I have the Shrockworks sliders (this'll be fun...) so I guess this side-bracket, and the t-case skid, will go between the frame and rock sliders, right?

So the bolt closest here needs a nut, but the others are pre-threaded, right?



I guess that cut-out is for the engine oil change, but what about the transmission? You have to remove the skid plate to change the transmission oil?

BTW, you'll be happy to know Rock Hard shipped me some METAL discs to protect the bolts. I think earlier shipments had plastic discs...

Thanks!
js.

 

I cannot believe there's no instructions. Yeah, it's not too complicated, but you spend that much they better provide some freaking instructions. Does anyone know if the clearance issues with a stock suspension and automatic have been resolved?

 

Here's pics of the engine brackets:

Passenger side:



Driver's:

 

Thanks Bly, those pictures finally solved the mystery as to why my skid wasn't going on right. It only took Sam and I looking at it 20-30 times to notice the ends.

Jsmoriss, yes to every one of your questions.

On those beveled disks, I'm thinking of seeing if they'll sell me some extras and maybe changing them out at the beginning of each season. Those things really do take a beating.

Hey TGRT, I didn't hear anything about issues with auto and stock suspension. What were they? Oh and yeah, Rock Hard is famous for their stuff being of amazing quality and their instructions being poor to none.

 

Im glad to hear you might have gotten yours straightened out

And I agree the quality of the skid is really great, but directions would have been nice!

 

I almost loved installing the SkidRow engine/trans skid except for the engine mount brackets.