OK, so I was cruising various jeep forums and the JK forum has a great FAQ section. I just had one question I hope some members can help clarify.

(From the FAQ Section)
All I have ordered right now are:

- 3" Coils (BDS)
- Bump Stop Extensions (BDS)
- Longer Shocks (Fox)
- Rear Brake Extensions (BDS)
- Longer Sway Bar Links (BDS)
- Front Adj. Track Bar
- Rear Adj. Track Bar

So really my question is, will I need to replace most of the control arms before I can disconnect it offroad? If so, which ones are most important to get first? If 6/8 above are highly recommended to be changed, should I just opt for something like the Teraflex 8-piece short arm kit?

Finally, just a complete noob question, does the rear or front (or both) drive shafts need to be replaced right away? Should I just wait for one to fail, then replace?


Thanks for any input.

 

No, you don't NEED new control arms. You will be fine disconnecting and whatnot. New or adjustable arms will let you dial in your suspension for better ride and handling. You will want to address the front driveshaft tho with either exhaust spacers or a replacement. I have a 2.5” on my 2012 and after about 4-5 months started seeing a little great coming out of the boot at the CV boot as stated above. Also tore the slip boot. But hasn't gone out on me yet

 

I'm ordering g the 3 inch teraflex lift. With 3-5" ome shocks, jks front and rear track bars. You do either need new driveshafts because the angle of the lift will wear them out sooner even quicker of you wheel often, or I've chosen the teraflex exhaust spacers( teraflex has video so you'll see why you need them). Going to need flat fenders and the control issues is with that size lift your castor and pinion angle will be off, I was gong to with the bare minimum with front lowers and rear uppers the address those angles because people say that your front end feels like it's flying/lifting off the ground at highway speeds. But I've chosen to go the route if the rancho drop brackets, I like the design a lot better than the aev drop brackets and they look solid.

 

Adding lift height lowers the caster. (there is a blurb on this in the faq's). At what point you want to address it is up to you, but most people will agree that at 3" you will likely want to. Your options are Cam Bolts, Drop Brackets, longer/shorter Fixed Control Arms, Adjustable control arms. If you opt for arms, get adjustables. Upper or lower is your choice (they do the exact same thing, just backwards from each other), but front lower and rear upper will give the most adjustability. If you find that you need to move an entire axle forward/backward in the wheel well (not uncommon on 2doors with taller lifts) you will need both upper and lower.

Adding lift height steepens the angles that the driveshaft joints run at. On the shorter wheelbase 2doors, they get steep quick. Add longer shocks that let the axles droop further, and disconnect to let the front droop even more, and you can see why there are recommendations to replace. There is no magic number that says you will or will not have issues at x.xx height, too many variables. So just make a habit of crawling underneath and looking for split boots and spitting grease, and then make your decision on what to do.

When you do decide to swap out driveshafts, adjustable arms will come in handy. The joints on the aftermarket shafts like different angles than the stock ones, so you will want to adjust the pinions accordingly.

 

3.5 running drop brackets and a Adams shaft on my 2 door. Caster is just under 5
Rear stock shaft and stock arms. So far so good.

 

Thanks for all the help BIGNICK, kh202, and nthinuf.

I think I have a list of additions that I may make in the near future:


Looks easy enough to install with the most basic tools. This will most likely be installed when I install the lift.

I think I will see how "flighty" the Jeep feels on the highway after the 3" BDS lift. If it feels horrible I might consider this option next.

I think I will wait a while for this. If no problems develop, might as well keep the stock driveline, but if I do see sings of wear or have driveline vibrations I might consider getting the front driveshaft. Not really sure what will happen to the rear drive shaft, hope it just stays fine.


If you guys have any other brands or recommend something else I am ready to hear you out. I am still just trying to learn as much as I can.

 

Sound like a solid plan to me

 

To adjust the caster, you only need one set of front arms. The second set will allow fine tuning and movement of the axle forward/backward.

There are many driveshaft options available, so don't feel you need to jump on the first option you find. I went with a Woods front, many are happy with Coast and JE Reel. And Adams shafts have been getting a lot of good reviews for the low price.

 

You could also add a limit strap at the diff to keep the driveshaft from contacting the exhaust while still maintaing droop at the wheels. Adding one in the rear at the differential will keep your driveshaft cv joint from pinching as well as keeping the rear of the vehicle lower on steep declines.