Well y'all I feel I killed my 2015... I went to 4 wheel parts (big mistake) and got a Rubicon express 2 1/2 inch left I noticed that the ride was very uncomfortable and very bumpy I complained they said everything was normal. Today at Work a grunt came out and was looking at my jeep and told me to look underneath the rear end and to my surprise I found out that the coils are actually curved at an angle the traction bar is not level you can look down the line of the jeep and the front axle is not in line with the rear axle. This is not to say that I don't know what I'm talking about because I really don't but you can tell that something is definitely messed up. If anybody lives in Houston Texas that knows a place that I could bring this is actually knowledgeable and does quality work will you please message me
Thanks y'all

 

You didn't kill it....yet haha . You just have to get the axle aligned is all. That can be done by adjusting the track bar if you have an adjustable one. If not you will need a track bar bracket to put it all back to normal.

 

I had a bad experience with 4wparts. Horrible customer service. But that was a couple years ago, its in the past.
Get an track bar bracket, either that mounts on the frame or in that mounts on the axle. The jack up the rear end. Then install the bracket then use a ratchet strap to pull the axle into place while you bolt it up.
should be all good.

 

You are long way from "killing it". Just slightly roused due to lack of knowledge...

So regarding your questions:
1) spring bow: can occur with longer springs, but its nothing too serious. if needed it can be remedied by inserting coil wedges under rear springs,
2) trackbar not level: dont get your point here? - TB simply isnt leveled (horizontaly) when you car is lifted - its ok like this. the only thing you have to take care of to have front TB leveled with your drag link, what at 2.5" of lift should not be a problem,
3) F vs R axle alignment: this is achieved usually through front adjustable TB (strongly suggest going with adjustable TB instead of TB bracket in front) and rear TB bracket. depending what your lift came with, you may have to buy one/both of these.
at this point it is relevant to mention, that if your lift was so incomplete, that you have your axles shifted, if will probably also lack geometry adjustment to achieve proper caster (thus your ride wont be as good as it could be). to mend this, you can either get AEV/Rancho geo correction brackets or buy front lower control arms (cam bolts would not be ideal, but plausible, should you lack funds),
4) harshness of RE lift: yes, if you rig is "stock" (no metal bumpers, winch, etc.) RE spring rate would be too high (RE is know for this), causing your ride to be too firm. what you can do is either revert to spacer lift (that way you will keep your stock ride, but keep the added height) or search for springs with lower spring rate (good luck with that). i think at the moment Eibach would be the way to go (other than that Full-traction or Evo plush coils come to my mind, as regards lower rate springs).

 

Haha... you definitely haven't killed it yet. Not sure what you mean when you say the traction bar isn't level. Can you post a pic to show exactly what you're talking about? Do you mean the sway bar maybe? The arms of the sway bar don't have to be perfectly perpendicular to the ground, but they shouldn't be too far off either (15* either way if I recall correctly, but need to double check). Regardless, if you're talking about sway bar, then you just need adjustable links. Most kits take the longer kits from the front and move them to the rear, and then replace the front links with longer ones (may or may not be adjustable). That usually gets most people where they need to be. Again a pic would help clarify exactly what you're talking about.

As for the coils, your spring perch gets rotated on the axle as the distance between the axle and the body of the Jeep increases. If you lift the Jeep without adding adjustable control arms, then the spring perch is going to be rotated to the rear at your new normal ride height causing the spring to bow. It's not always as simple as adding adjustable control arms either depending on your application (tire size and clearance, clearance of rear track bar, kind of drive shaft and pinion angle required, etc.). A quick and easy solution is to just add some $30 coil spring wedges. I have the RK 2.5" lift and used the RK wedges. It took enough of the bow out of my coils to resolve the issue I was having. Some other possible solutions include cutting the stock perches and rewelding into new/correct location on the axle, or cutting and adding new bolt on perches (I think either Synergy or JKS sells some bolt on). Again though, you should have upper or lower control arms at a minimum to adjust your pinion angle as required. Address your spring issue by either dropping in some wedges, or relocate the perches if really necessary, but shouldn't be required for a 2.5" lift.

As for the axles not lining up front to back, just adjust your trackbar as another member mentioned above. Take measurements on either side of each axle using a fixed point somewhere on the Jeep like the frame or something to determine which axle needs adjusted. Don't just compare the two axles. You first need to figure out which one is off. Most half-complete kits come with an adjustable front track bar, and a rear track bar bracket at a minimum that should get your axles close. Not sure how complete your kit is. Again, easy solution is adjustable track bars. Most rear brackets are bolt on, but recommend welding before going off road.

 

Sway bar links shouldn't point down 15*. Between Level to the ground and 15* up is good

 

And usually you move the rear links to the front and buy new rears. And both axles will be off, in opposite directions, after the lift unless it came with the necessary parts to correct.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I'll correct my post in case someone doesn't read all the way through the thread. Don't want to pass misinformation. Good point about both axles possibly being off. More reason to measure each axle independently from a fixed point on the Jeep (e.g. frame).

 

Sway bar links shouldn't point down 15*. Between Level to the ground and 15* up is good

 

I agree 100% to use the frame to measure. I thought in advance when installing my lift to use a laser to make center from the factory and then adjust back to that point. I also took many, many measurements from the frame.