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Any tips/pointers to look out for installing a RK 3.5" X-Factor lift?

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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:24 PM
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Default Any tips/pointers to look out for installing a RK 3.5" X-Factor lift?

Just got a SCREAMING deal on a brand new 3.5" X-Factor lift and Fox 2.0 shocks off of a guy on a local FB Jeep page. This isnt my first lift install (far from it) and have read through the directions, but just wanted anyones input before we rip off the RC lift on there now. Looks like as long as you start with the correct control arm measurements and weld the track bar brackets on everything else seems pretty straight forward.

Going out of town for the next 2 weeks and then plan on installing it the weekend i get back. I dont know if i can wait that long!!
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:46 PM
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The control arm measurements are suggestions - not gospel. You need to wait to get it on the ground (or at least on all of the weight on the axles) before you can truly set the length. Check your pinion angle.

I have an X-Factor on my 2-door. Took me and a couple friends 20 hours to do the whole thing using jack stands. I would imagine a hydraulic lift would make it easier.

I can't say there were any gotchas I ran into. When it came to the control arms, I only did one side at a time to eliminate any problems with the axle shifting and making it even harder to line things up again. Use RED Loctite on the jam nuts. DO NOT USE BLUE. Red will come off with some heat - I had to adjust them once. If you trust your starting measurements, torque them down on the bench with a vise. When RK says "put your big boy pants on" they mean it. You'll want to torque these down REALLY hard. Check these jam nuts a few times a year. If they come loose, the flex join will wear away all of the threads in the control arm and ruin it - RK will not warranty that.

You are going to LOVE this lift.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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Awesome!! Thanks for the input!
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 05:26 PM
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As for the control arms, if you want to adjust them later and you live in a rust area, use anti seize on the threads of the joints to help from totally seizing up on you later. Unless you like wrestling and swearing at parts
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 06:49 PM
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I made up a simple jig to tighten the nuts. 3.5" 2 door I set the front lowers to 24 1/4, set pinion to 2° using a jack and adjusted out both uppers out so the bolts slide through. The uppers don't have to be the same lengths. I ended up about 19 1/4 Rear, well my arms are shorter but I did the same. Set lowers to 20 1/4, pinion to -2° and adjusted uppers out to fit. Ended up around 18 1/2. Leave all bolts loose, recheck pinion/caster angles with jeep on the ground. Only when happy start torquing. The rear uppers were the only arms I was able to tighten on the jeep. I wedged metal blocks in between the joint and mounts to hold orientation.



Good luck
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 06:55 PM
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Like said remove the joints and load inside the tubes with anti-sieze. I also coated all joints with fluid film to prevent corrosion.

Also the x-factor kit comes with 4 self threading bolts for the rear swaybar. That will need to be moved back to clear things.
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