It's about time I start beefing things up and get some confidence/control back in my steering components. So for starters, I have been looking at aftermarket tie rods. Just surfing the web makes my wallet run and hide lol.
I have talked to some local guys about making my own, and I think this is something I am capable of. I know many have done this before me, so I am looking for advice. If this works out well, I will most likely make my own drag link of the same method. Here is what I am thinking:

Let's start with the rod size. I want a 1.5" OD rod, preferably 7075 Aluminum for lightweight strength. I believe I can find aluminum rod stock on ebay/amazon for somewhat cheap and just stick it in a lathe at one of the machine shops where I work, but would appreciate if anyone has a better source. If I get the solid stock, how far in should I go? Any advice on this is welcome. Another alternative would be to get 1.0" ID - 1.50" OD .250" wall DOM from Ballistic Fabrication. The only pitfall is that it is steel and I was hoping to find aluminum, although the price point is attractive.

What I figure I will do for the rod ends (Bungs?) is grab a left hand thread and right hand thread 7/8" 18 tpi tube adapter and have them welded inside the rod. Once these are welded, I can get a left and right 7/8 18 tpi chevy tie rod end. These, along with the corresponding jam nuts I found to be a fair price on Ballistic Fabrication's site as well, but once again I'm open to suggestions. Maybe another brand is better quality? These do come with cotter pins.

Here are the links to the parts I am looking at if it helps.

es2233l Chevy Tie Rod End 7/8 18 tpi
es2234r Chevy Tie Rod End 7/8 18 tpi
7/8" -18 tpi Jam Nut (Chevy TRE)
7/8" -18 tpi Jam Nut (Chevy TRE)
7/8" -18 tpi Tube Adapter (Chevy Tie Rod End)
7/8" -18 tpi Tube Adapter (Chevy Tie Rod End)

And here is the DOM tubing from the same site, but like I said, I'd prefer aluminum stock.
1.0" ID - 1.50" OD .250" wall DOM

For install, I know I will need to ream out the knuckles, and I am hoping to borrow a 7/8" reamer rather than purchase one as they can be quite pricey for something I won't use often. Could someone fill me in on the benefits of reaming the knuckles and mounting the tie rod from the top rather than the bottom? Is this simply for clearance issues?

So, aside from bolting everything back together and adjusting for toe-in, what have I missed?

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

I know what I missed. The steering stabilizer bracket:

1-5/8" Steering Stabilizer/ Ram Assist Tie Rod Clamp with 5/8 Boss for Currie/Rock Krawler Tie Rods
1.5 tie rod clamp with 5/8-18 Boss | PSCMotorsports.com performance steering components, power steering

Now, anything else?

 

Wide Open Designs sells the 7075 already machined and includes wrench flats. I'd guess around $120 for a tie rod length worth. You will not be able to do it cheaper unless someone will machine it for free.

If it is going on a stock JK axle, you will need offset ends at the very least or it won't clear the diff.

You will need 17" or greater wheels with no more than 4.5" of back space.

1.5" is a little less than ideal. I would run 1.75", but you may have trouble making that fit.