I picked up a new to me '13 JKUR with TF 3" short arm and 35" tires. I know with 37s you need gussets, sleeves and RCV axles, but do I need to upgrade the front 44?

 

It all depends on what you plan on doing with your Jeep. If you plan on wheeling it pretty hard, it couldn't hurt to beef up your axle; but if your Jeep is on the road most of the time with some light wheeling, you should be just fine on 35's. A lot of forum members (including myself) run 35's on D30 axles with no issues.

 

None of us can tell you whether you will or will not bend or shatter the housing. You can find plenty of posts stating no problems with stock housings on 35's or 37's while offroad. And you can find plenty of posts noting problems onroad with stock 29's or 32's and just hitting a pothole or curb. Flip a coin. If you don't want to re-enforce, it's your choice, no one is going to make you.

And for the front 44 vs 30 'housings' - the 44 gains you nothing in terms of strength. They have the same length, tube diameter, wall thickness, same C's, hubs, brakes. The 44 is upgraded internally.

 

Thanks to both of you. Interesting info on the 44 vs 30 housings.

 

Sidebar- if your C's are bent already then don't bother burning in gussets because you might as well put that money towards a new axle. They're cheap but you won't crack the C in half in this lifetime.

 

The 44 has a bigger R&P and 30 spline axles as apposed to the 30s smaller R&P and 27 spline.

 

No bends yet. This rig's been built well, but never wheeled.

 

I say you do the c gussets because even on the street you can bend them if you don't plan on upgrading the axle anytime soon.

 

I run 35's have been to moab 2x, Colo, the Rubicon trail, wheel a lot in Montana and my c's have not moved. I put it on the alignment rack when new and 36000 miles later still get the same specs.

 

That's what I do. Good to hear about your experience with stock axles