This is the new (December 2016) version 3 of a device that plugs in between the throttle pedal and the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), and modifies both of the pedal position signals to the PCM in an effort to improve and customize throttle control for the driver.

There are 37 possible settings, 18 each for automatic and manual transmissions, plus stock unmodified. There's a one-button toggle between Stock, Green, and Red settings -- Green and Red each having 9 possible saved settings. The user interface is a small remote unit that plugs into the main unit, and can be removed after setup if desired.

The selected program number ("2" in the above pic) can be turned off by holding down the center button for a few seconds. In this case there are just the two previously saved Red and Green available, plus stock.

It looks like there are two basic throttle control concepts in this device...

Reading the US patent app US20140207353A1 (July 2014) there are several references to rate of change such as this: The above is essentially a rate of change algorithm for making the output (to the PCM) lead the input (from the pedal) during pedal movement.

Next, the input signal (from the pedal) is also mapped with selectable curves to the output (PCM). Unlike rate of change, this can easily be observed by holding a constant pedal position, changing among the 18/36 programs, and observing the pedal inputs to the PCM with an OBD scan tool. For example, here's my current green and red settings, plus stock with a manual transmission selected:

Stock__Green-2__Red-2
08_____08_______08 (pedal not pressed)
25_____27_______29
50_____58_______58
75_____75_______75
91_____91_______91 (full pedal)

Even though there is little difference in the throttle mapping from stock with these particular selections, the throttle felt better, more responsive to change -- even at relatively low throttle letting out the clutch from a stop.

All 18 program settings appeared to leave the throttle map below ~20 unchanged, and all were usable. Red-9 would probably not be the best choice for icy roads though. It was easy to burn a few gallons of gasoline playing with the choices, and ended up preferring Red-2.

Beyond throttle conditioning, there's also a valet mode that restricts the throttle opening, and a lock mode that uses a PIN number to unlock the throttle.

Installation notes (2008 JK):
I removed the two lower trim panels below the steering column to access the plug connector for the pedal. Next was taking off a metal plate (2 bolts) behind the upper trim panel. On mine there is a stereo amp behind the metal plate blocking my view. The amp comes out with one bolt below it, gently lifting up and pulling it toward the rear, then disconnecting the wire connectors on its back. On re-assembly, note the plastic part with a hole attached to the loom of wires from the stereo amp. The plastic with the hole goes over threads of a nearby bolt in the firewall and positions the wiring so it doesn't rub on stuff -- This wiring support is very easy to miss when taking the stereo amp out.


References:
google.com/patents/US20140207353
sprintboostersales.com
sprintboosterusa.com
sprintbooster.com



See the epilogue, post #7 below.

 

Very nice research and data.

I have to ask, though, can't the same result be had by pressing the pedal a little more aggressively?

I do like the valet setting.

 

The rate of change algorithm would probably be hard to imitate. Regarding the throttle mapping -- I think that for someone (not me) trying for the JK drag race title, the throttle map with the least effective pedal travel should be fastest because there's a finite limit to how fast the pedal can be moved. Here's a video where this hypothesis was tested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dmBq1O07-M Personally, the drivabilty was just nicer. Since the throttle map I'm using is little different than stock, I suspect the rate of change function is a major factor.

 

Any idea if it helps with the Transmission downshifting like up an incline. I know gears is the True answer but just wondering if anyone had noticed a difference with the Sprint Booster

 

Do you want it to downshift sooner?

 

I think it will. It makes the computer think you are hitting the gas pedal harder.

When my transmission seems to be taking too long to downshift at the beginning of a hill on the highway, I hit the O/D off button, then hit it again near the top.
When it delays the downshift on hills at lower speeds, as on country roads, I pull the lever back into 2nd, then return to D near the top.

Both techniques work well with no cost.

 

Unfortunately there was an intermittent (about every 300 to 800 miles) code P2138, indicating that the two throttle pedal signals did not correlate. I don't know what the tolerance is in terms of time or percentage in the PCM to set the code. Connectors were re-plugged, pedal assembly changed, and a new Sprint Booster tried without a change in symptoms. It's been well over 1000 miles now without the Sprint Booster so I'm convinced the code P2138 and Sprint Booster are related somehow.

Apparently no one else has had this happen, so maybe it's a peculiarity with the PCM revision or something. The refund process went fine even though it was beyond the normal time frame. Sometimes things just don't work out, but it was still a learning experience...

 

Great write up sir.

 

i run SB v3 for 3 weeks. the fact is the pedal response have big difference than stock!
but today i checked for trouble codes from superchips and i found P2138!
I deleted the code and tomorrow i ll check again.
i hope my code p2138 there was because the new SB v3 have a ''pedal lock mode'' and i tried to learn how it work.i tried to activate and deactivate the pedal lock with running engine and sometimes i pressed the pedal for check if worked...and then ETC light on.
when i turn engine off and deactivate the pedal lock then the light gone. i hope is this and the code just stay in memory of superchips.
never have on my dash the light check engine,just the ETC light when i tried the pedal lock mode.

 

You know what would be even better?... is a cable, running from the throttle pedal directly to the throttle body.