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Advice on ovaled out bolt causing DEATH WOBBLE?

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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 04:53 PM
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Default Advice on ovaled out hole causing DEATH WOBBLE?

HI guys! I purchased my first jeep (07 jku sahara) almost a year ago and even though I swore to my girlfriend I'd keep it stock, I am now in the market for some upgrades. Well me and a buddy set aside a weekend to install my first upgrade which was a 3.5" series 2 RC lift. The instalation went pretty smoothly, I thought. But on my first drive above 60 MPH I got a violent shake requiring me to completely stop the jeep to get it to end. I have read this is death wobble. I then limped the jeep home, got under it and realized we had left a few bolts not so tight (drinking and working in the dark). One of the things not tight enough was my track bar. I pulled it off and it looked to me like the frame side hole was a little ovaled. I took a video which I will attach. I tightened everything down to proper spec after this and still have the wobble. Please watch the video and let me know if this could cause my issue. If not what should I look for? If so, how do I fix?

Note: Have not gotten an alignment since install as I know this won't cause DW.


Link to video: https://youtu.be/ORX-AImvta4

Last edited by Bakemeacake; Mar 7, 2017 at 07:42 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 05:50 PM
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Yes, a loose track bar bolt will cause death wobble - and being left loose would have caused it to oval out like that. Track bar bolts need to be minimum 125ft lbs.

For now, you can probably get by with just torquing that bolt down to as much as you can possibly can get it (I'd aim for something like 175lbs). For the proper long term fix (which I would do much sooner rather than later), you could either have a shop weld on some washers, or synergy makes a bracket that bolts on over it that would do the trick as well.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 05:52 PM
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You can always try a 9/16" bolt from your local hardware store. If you're not happy get some weld washers for both sides and tac them on. ARTEC or Ruff Stuff's got em
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kbp810
Yes, a loose track bar bolt will cause death wobble - and being left loose would have caused it to oval out like that. Track bar bolts need to be minimum 125ft lbs.

For now, you can probably get by with just torquing that bolt down to as much as you can possibly can get it (I'd aim for something like 175lbs). For the proper long term fix (which I would do much sooner rather than later), you could either have a shop weld on some washers, or synergy makes a bracket that bolts on over it that would do the trick as well.
Oh lord. It was all I could do to get it torqued to 125 lb! I guess I could try. And I want to buy that bracket you just mentioned. Is there anything else I should check aside from this, or after seeing the video does it seem to be a culprit? Thanks!
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ChuckMRN
You can always try a 9/16" bolt from your local hardware store. If you're not happy get some weld washers for both sides and tac them on. ARTEC or Ruff Stuff's got em
Is there an option to just drill out a larger hole?
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bakemeacake
Is there an option to just drill out a larger hole?
9/16 is just a tiny fraction larger. As this bolt goes through the frame (mount), and the track bar bushing, drilling out to the next size is a no go. Having the washers welded on at a local welding shop shouldn't be more then a few bucks, the longest part of the job is removing the track bar bolt.

Call the shop ahead of time to explain what you are trying to do, and find out if they have 9/16 weld washers on hand, or if you would need to provide them. If you have a buddy who welds, buy a set of the washers, and get him/her a six or 12 pack of beer, and job done.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by tjkamp
9/16 is just a tiny fraction larger. As this bolt goes through the frame (mount), and the track bar bushing, drilling out to the next size is a no go. Having the washers welded on at a local welding shop shouldn't be more then a few bucks, the longest part of the job is removing the track bar bolt.

Call the shop ahead of time to explain what you are trying to do, and find out if they have 9/16 weld washers on hand, or if you would need to provide them. If you have a buddy who welds, buy a set of the washers, and get him/her a six or 12 pack of beer, and job done.
Yeah I know a guy who could do this, but is it a permanent fix or will I end up with the sane problem again?
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 07:39 PM
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Also, can anyone watch the video I posted and tell me if this is for sure a problem? I can't remember if the bolt was that loose in the hole before I had DW or not.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bakemeacake
Also, can anyone watch the video I posted and tell me if this is for sure a problem? I can't remember if the bolt was that loose in the hole before I had DW or not.
Watching the video I couldn't tell (due to the resolution available on my internet connection). mine had a little play in it when I changed out track bars, but the hole was round, and had no signs of ovaling in any direction.

Hope this helps.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 08:15 PM
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You can drill out holes and install these Fix it Weld Washers, Set of 6 - RuffStuff Specialties or simply cut the bracket off and install a new one like this Frame Outside Panhard Bracket - RuffStuff Specialties
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