Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Lifting soon, need to know if there is anything else I need?

Thread Tools
 
Old Mar 17, 2017 | 06:32 PM
  #1  
marinefreak200's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: United States
Default Lifting soon, need to know if there is anything else I need?

Well the big moment is here for me and as excited as I am, I need everyones input if I am on the right track. I have an 09 JKU Rubicon that has flat fenders, front bumper and winch, EVO sliders, and full underbody skid plates and now moving forward with the best part. I have an RK 3.5 X-Factor long arm kit that I am picking up on Monday but am bypassing the coils and moving to the EVO coilover kit front and rear which I already have. I feel that this will be a good fit especially with the flat fenders. I also have an Adams 1350 front shaft coming and the rear wont be too far behind it. What I am asking for is everyones opinion on how well everything will function together and what is anything am I missing? I want to buy the RK tie rod and drag link also, do I need these to get going or can it wait a bit? Im afraid the lift kit will not be enough and while I have another vehicle, i would like to have everything up front to put on.

Any words of advice are welcome!
Reply
Old Mar 17, 2017 | 07:13 PM
  #2  
cjnomo's Avatar
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Default

A hi-steer kit is recommended for taller lifts, but not always necessary. Do ur thing and figure it out from there. I have a MC 3.5" lift and hi-steer kits are actually NOT recommended. Gotta check ur clearances and drive it a bit before u will know.
Reply
Old Mar 18, 2017 | 10:11 AM
  #3  
drexelsteve's Avatar
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Default

I ran a 1350 front shaft for about a year. Had awful driveline vibration past 40mph due to the weight of the cv section and the long length of the 1350 tcase yoke. It sticks out a good 4 inches past the tcase vs a 1310 yoke and even with a balanced shaft it's just too much rotating mass. Swapped to a 1310 and it's smooth sailing now.
Reply
Old Mar 18, 2017 | 11:19 AM
  #4  
TheDirtman's Avatar
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
Default

1350 is overkill and a waste of money unless you have big HP and tons. This is not a case of bigger is better. Why an RK long arm with the EVO coil overs?
Its also kinda strange someone doing a long arm with coil overs would have to ask about components.

Tire size and what you are planning to do should be in your description for what you are doing. Lifts and shocks should be built around that not just thrown on out of a whim.
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2017 | 07:18 AM
  #5  
marinefreak200's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: United States
Default

Yes I did forget to mention tire size, 37's is max as of right now. Sure I can see 40's down the road but I already have a set of 37's to burn up. If I go bigger I'm looking at new axles anyways and as you all know there is a lot of money involved in that.
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2017 | 07:25 AM
  #6  
marinefreak200's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
 
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: United States
Default

Originally Posted by TheDirtman
1350 is overkill and a waste of money unless you have big HP and tons. This is not a case of bigger is better. Why an RK long arm with the EVO coil overs?
Its also kinda strange someone doing a long arm with coil overs would have to ask about components.

Tire size and what you are planning to do should be in your description for what you are doing. Lifts and shocks should be built around that not just thrown on out of a whim.
I can see your point with the 1350 and it's also not a DD and I don't go fast so I should be fine. If I need to go to the 1310 I will. Then I'll have the bigger shaft for when I really upgrade I also like RK and have wanted one for a while. I had a bad experience with rubicon express and QC so I won't go to them and teraflex/ others like it seem to be the 'norm' but I don't go for it. I'm different as everyone is and thought I'd switch it up a little.

And yes it's been years since I've done more car work than a fluid change so if there are little things I can buy before hand to ready myself then I'd like to. I'm doing this myself anyways and I will take my time. You can't rush perfection.
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2017 | 07:43 AM
  #7  
TheDirtman's Avatar
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
Default

I run 1310's on 40's and tons without issues. Been running them for over 5 years. I just went to a 1410 on the rear because of the limited yolk sizes on a dana 80. If I throw a V8 in there then yes I will likely go with a bigger driveshaft but only if I have issues. Moving to tons later your current drive shaft will be too long as the differential is way bigger then the dana 44. If you are planning on tons I would wait on the long arm kit and do a custom long arm set up that is going to give you better clearance and performance. The EVO coil over kit does not give you the amount of travel that you would max out the short arms on the JK and to be honest, you will be better off to do it all at once with the tons then to pay twice. Tons will also give you more room for mount options as things get pretty tight on the front driver side for mounts. Tons may give you the option to run the coil overs outboard on the rear with a Frenched frame that is a much better set up then hanging them off the back of the jeep in the factory locations.
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2017 | 05:35 PM
  #8  
Ryan0260's Avatar
Super Moderator
10 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11,054
Likes: 85
From: Hendersonville, Tennessee
Default

Originally Posted by drexelsteve
I ran a 1350 front shaft for about a year. Had awful driveline vibration past 40mph due to the weight of the cv section and the long length of the 1350 tcase yoke. It sticks out a good 4 inches past the tcase vs a 1310 yoke and even with a balanced shaft it's just too much rotating mass. Swapped to a 1310 and it's smooth sailing now.
A 1350 that is balanced and the proper length should be smooth just like a 1310.
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2017 | 06:34 PM
  #9  
drexelsteve's Avatar
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Ryan0260
A 1350 that is balanced and the proper length should be smooth just like a 1310.
should be but it's not.
Reply




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:50 PM.