Hey guys, so i have a situation with my front Rubi D44. Specs - 2dr 2014 Rubicon, Manual, tube/flat fenderers, 1 - 1.5" lift on front - (JKUR Unlimited Takeoff Springs). I'm am running 37s, well putting them on tomorrow. I want to make sure my front axle is trail worthy, light to medium difficulty... and of course difficult at times when it comes up. Going to be running Ten Factory 4340 Chromoly Shafts in the front, but i also want to Truss the font with the Artec Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT. That would be the ideal situation.. i think anyway. I am not sure that i will have the clearance for the Truss though. If i were to just Gusset the inner Cs and Sleeve the front would that but sufficiet for running the 37s? Jeep is going to be offroad at least a couple times a month, and i want it to hold up the best i can with my front 44. Any help with this situion would be great. Thanks

 

I'm going to say what most will say.....sleeving it will just move the weak spot closer to the pumpkin.

Your best bet is to gusset the C's and add some better ball joints.

Or buy a caster corrected aftermarket axle and be done.

 

You won't have the clearance you need without crazy bumpstops that would kill your uptravel. The sleeves don't make it weaker at the pumpkin, you're just shifting the breakage point to that spot that isn't reinforced. Gussets are dependent upon who you speak with and ball joints wouldn't be bad to switch out to something like the Rare Parts that is supposed to shift the load between the two.

Drive with sense and the axle will be fine. I've got a friend who did it and didn't have issues. When the funding allowed, we did a sufficient lift and truss to buy him a little more piece of mind.....but nothing is going to be bulletproof sadly.

 

Ok, so i think i found a solution to my dilemma. Found some Low Profile Trusses.. and i may run a 1" coil spacer up front. Here are the trusses that i found that i had not seen before, and comparing to the Artec Truss they look to allow more clearance. So the first one is the JCR Offroad, the second is the G2 and the third is the Artec. As you can see there is a good amount of clearance from the first two to the third. Not sure which to get though, the JCR or the G2.

 

I went through the usual upgrades on my bought new '09 JKUR, sleeves & gussets, ball joints, etc. I eventually swapped in an angle-corrected aftermarket housing and have been very satisfied with the results. Were I to start over I wouldn;t waste a penny on the stock housing. The money is much better spent on an aftermarket unit, even the Dana upgrade housing.

 

I would not waste the money on any so called trusses on the market. They really don't do anything but make your wallet lighter. I recommend not running 37's on the factory axles since they were designed for a max of 35" tire. i also don't recommend running bigger then a 35" tire with proper gearing on a daily driver. I assume you are going to run 4.10 gears with the 37's? If so you are looking at nothing but problems off road with shitty fuel economy on road. You will look cool though.

 

also unless you are wheeling hard and fast you can probably get by running 37's on stock axles unless you are not using your head while wheeling. There a literally 1000's of guys running 37's on stock axles and they are not folding like some would have you believe. Sure if you are running KOH or BFE you might want to upgrade but if you are doing light to medium stuff depending on what you consider light to medium you should be fine. For me I would consider something like the rubicon or dusy ershim light to medium.

 

I run 37's on a rubi axle with artec gussets and synergy weld in sleeves, also synergy ball joints. I run medium to hard trails in my area, but don't hit the skinny pedal to get over obstacles very often.

Sleeves will not keep the axle from breaking, but for 100$ it is an easy piece of mind. I got my axles(front and rear) complete for 2k with lockers, then stripped them down for a complete rebuild. I put Artec front LCA brackets and front and rear track bar mounts. I have put a few rides on these axles at Stoney Lonesome and AOP with no issues so far. I ride with others running the same setup that drive a lot crazier than me, and have been doing so for a lot longer with no issues.

My plan is to run it until it breaks or bends, if that happens I will get a G2 housing and swap the internals over for 1500$.

 

Yeah.. not in the budget at the moment. Probably gonna build some Super Duty axles eventually. Just gotta get by for a couple of years on these. Thanks man

 

I mean i get what your are saying, "Don't run 37s on Rubi axles". But im gonna run 37s.. already am actually, people do it all the time. But im going to invest a bit of money to make them stronger, and a truss cant hurt. So Chromoly shafts and Gears going in on the middle of next month. Either 4.88s or 5.13, still haven't made my mind up. Its actually not that bad right now with the 4.10 on a manual transmission. So im gonna run them for a couple years, save some money. Then when the time comes sell my rubi axles and swap in some 60s. Thank for the advice.