So I got my 2017 Jeep JKU about 5 months ago and I've been driving around since I bought it with the smallest wheel/tire option possible, the 225/75/16 little crappers. I hate driving it with these little baby wheels on, so I decided to piece together a middle of the line lift-kit for now, that would only be used for wheeling maybe one weekend a month if that for now, until I put a more comprehensive kit together..


For my lift so far I have:


Zone Offroad 3” Lift kit containing; -Front Sway bar Disconnects
-4 Nitro Shocks
-4 Coil Springs
-Rear Extended Sway bar links
-2” Bump Stop Extensions

*Rear track bar relocation bracket (This will be replaced by an adjustable Rear Trackbar)
*Brake line relocation brackets(These will be replaced by front & rear extended steel braided brake lines)




-Front Adjustable Track Bar
-Rear Adjustable Track Bar
-Exhaust spacer kit
-Dual Steering Stabilizer
-Front & Rear Extended Steel-Braided Brake Lines


-Five 315/75/16 Yokohama Geolander M/T tires that will be mounted and balanced on 16x8 Pro Comp wheels with 4.5” backspacing


I have an install date 2-weeks from now from a reputable shop that works on Jeeps often. They will provide the correct adjustment to the track bars as well as a full alignment.
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So i've heard mixed results from shops regarding my lift build. Some say its good enough to get me started and up on those 35"s and should work for 90% daily driving and 10% wheeling. I chose the 3" lift for now to stay away from the need to replace the front and rear driveshafts for now, and I think 35"s look better on 3" or less lift. Anymore lift and I personally think you need to run 37"s to make it look right.


So I was told by one shop that I should have decent highway behavior with both the front and rear track bars. Then another shop told me that it would feel like crap and that I absolutely need to add at least front upper adjustable control arms to correct caster or it will feel crappy and flighty at highway speeds.


My question for you more experienced guys is to offer me your opinion of my set-up for what I want to use it for. And let me know honestly if there is something I NEED to add before I regret it. And let me know things I could/should add down the road that will help that may not be necessary right off the bat.


Thanks fam!


-Matt

 

Just my initial 2c reactions:

Bumpstop – are you certain that 2” is what you need? This is one of those things that every jeep sits different, and you really need to cycle your suspension and determine proper bump stops. Just because something might come with the lift, doesn’t mean it’s the correct size. Bumpstops that are modular/adjustable are a nice option.

Raised rear TB bracket – you mention replacing this later with an adjustable rear TB. I’d leave it on….you want that rear TB raised higher to help with your roll center. You may or may not still want to add adjustable rear TB to get the axle perfectly centered under the jeep.

Brake line brackets – they work and are cheap. Definitely plan on just replacing brake lines in the future if possible.

Dual steering stabilizer – just flat out redonk silly. Not necessary at all. I’d save your money unless you just like looking dorky. The factory stabilizer or the cheapest alternative is perfectly fine.

Exhaust spacers – mom and pop muffler shops with typically help relocate your exhaust for $50-$80, and it always seems to be a better solution than running spacers IMO. Y-Pipes are another solution, but the cost is kinda dumb on them.

Caster correction. You NEED to address this. Control arm geo brackets or adjustable lower CAs up front. No cam bolts. When you raise the jeep 3”, you’re going to be lowering your caster a decent bit. Factory is 4.2*, and with a 3” lift you’re going to drop down in the 3’s….possibly even high 2’s depending on the actual netted lift. You'll notice this in your on-road handling. Geo brackets work fine.....you'll lose some clearance and have limited adjustabilty, but they are a budget friendly solution. In regards to adjustable arms, usually you use lowers to position the axle and uppers to adjust caster, but in a pinch you can use lowers only (by increasing length of lower arms you push the axle forward and lower the pinion, which by nature is raising caster). Addressing caster will be the most important issue to address in order to be happy as a daily driver.

Things you might need to budget for in the future:
- Ball joints (depending on how you wheel, style and larger tires will add stress)
- Front drive shaft….you’re not NECESSARILY safe at 3”. Seen these go on 2.5” budget boosts even….same place, the TC side CV joint boot.


If you haven't purchased wheels/tires yet, I'd prefer a 17x9 wheel myself. Not going to go in to the obvious side effects of moving ot a larger tire (decreased fuel economy, makes jeep bit more sluggish and get to regear territory, speedo/odometer will be off unless you recalibrate).

 

I've know a few people with Zone lifts. They sag significantly under weight, so if you're planning on getting steel bumpers, plan to get spacers as well. My 2.5" lift has 2" bumpstops and I do rub with swaybars disconnected at extreme flex with 35" tires but only in those one-tire-in-the-air situations. Otherwise resharp001 is on the nose with Castor correction, you'll want to address it right away.

 

@resharp001

Thats perfect information, thank you. Unfortunately all that I have listed is currently sitting next to me in my office, so its not a matter of canceling orders or not buying stuff. I understand it may have been stupid to get the dual steering stabilizer, i guess i was just thinking overkill in fear of death-wobble. Since I have it already, would it hurt to still install it, or am I absolutely better without it?

I'll definitely order at least the lower adjustable front control arms today since it seems like a must for highway drivability.

 

In regards to caster.....there is nothing wrong with geo brackets for ~$100 if budget is tighter. If you went that route, get brackets that have multiple mounting positions so you have some options. Arms are nice because you can really dial in the caster to where you want it, not just to where the mounting holes dictate what your options are.

If it were me, I'd either 1) see if I could return the dual stabilizer, or 2) sell it as new/never installed, and recapture some of the cost. It's really not going to save you from any wobble issue, and if anything, it will mask the earlier symptoms of a worn joint until larger issues like a full on DW might occur. Really, that SS is there as the last little piece of the puzzle to keep everything in harmony (if you ask me), but if there's a BJ or a DL/TR end going bad, I want to feel those symptoms as early as possible so it can be addressed before it's a larger issue. That's just food for thought at least.

 

Read this thread.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/

 

Thats a really good point regarding the SS. I'd rather get the teraflex front lower adjustable control arms now instead of the geo-bracket, but would the front lower CA's do enough for my caster angles for now to help highway drivabliity? Or is it pointless unless I get both upper and lowers for the front?

 

Drop brackets give the best ride quality as they restore wheel base, increase caster, and flatten the links. You do loose some ground clearance though. Adjustable control arms will only do two things, restore wheel base (both upper and lower required) and increase caster. I would look at synergy or metal cloak for adjustable arms if you are going that route. Better damping for ride quality and less maintenance.

 

+1. If you're going to go the route of arms, definitely don't make a hasty decision. Do a little research. If you do front arms, odds are you might follow up with rear arms in the future, and a full set of arms could cost as much or more than all your other components.....so make sure you choose something you'd be happy with. What Dirtman is referring here to in regards to dampening is that MC an Synergy use a bushing style joint rather than metal on metal joints like some others. The difference in cost between different branded arms is marginal when you're looking at a long term commitment.

 

Aside from all the other great points, this is a big one that will bite you down the road. 17's offer way more options for tires, upgraded brakes, etc. From the sounds of it, you've got more tricks planned down the road, here's a chance to buy one time.

If you haven't mounted the wheels and tires, I'd see about what they might offer as a swap if you paid the difference and shipping.