I was shopping around for some parts in an effort to figure out all would be needed to start to get some ballpark price figures.

Current setup
2009 JKU Wrangler 3.8L Sahara, Automatic 42RLE Transmission
Current Factory Gears: 3.73
Front Axle: Factory Dana 30 (Non Rubicon)
Rear Axle: Factory Dana 44 (Non Rubicon)
Tires: BFG KO2s 315/70/R17 (Actual size=approx 34in, SC flashcal is set to 33.75in where speedo is correct)

My ideal setup is that I would like to re-gear as well as add Eaton/Detroit Locker Trutrac LSDs in the front and rear. The front I could easily be talked out of, but I'm leaning towards since I'm going to re-gear the Dana 30 I might as well go ahead and get the LSD installed in the front with it at the same time, if the price ends up being ok to do so. I don't want lockers since for my area and for what I do, I don't feel they would be as useful for myself as an LSD. Snow, Sand(Dune hills), forest Fire Trails, and Daily Driver.

After looking at this gear chart, I'm leaning towards 4.88 gears.

Q1: Are the "tire sizes" on this chart actual tire size?

Parts List:
Yukon YGK013 [31013] 4.88 gear kit package
https://www.randysworldwide.com/product/ygk013/

While shopping around, I was able to find this gear kit new for $540 where I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on it.
Q2: Does $540 for this front and rear kit sound like a great price?
Q3: I often hear many suggesting the Yukon gears, are there any known common problems and/or should I consider another brand?

Trutrac LSD Front axle:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XJ9UR4/?coliid=I2RP3Y4NNFLS1G&colid=20TXEAD6EBPRA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Q4: Is this the correct LSD part that I would need to get for the front Dana 30 axle and would it work with the Yukon gears?

Trutrac LSD Rear axle:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XJ6MGG/?coliid=I2TQS5SFC1RVNF&colid=20TXEAD6EBPRA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Q5: Is this the correct LSD part that I would need to get for the rear non Rubi Dana 44 axle and would it work with the Yukon gears?
Q6: or is this the correct LSD part and what the heck is the difference between this one and the other aside from their part numbers?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019XES6ZE/?coliid=I2TPGY4C481AUC&colid=20TXEAD6EBPRA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Install:
I plan to shop around for local shops which allow you to bring your own parts and would just charge me for labor to do the re-gear and LSD installs.
Q7: Are there any other parts that I need to add to my list?
Q8: What is a fair price range for a shop to do this work of re-gear front and rear, with LSD front and rear while taking into consideration I'ld be bringing my own parts?

Q9: My front Dana 30 pinion seal is currently leaking, where I was considering doing that repair myself. However, it looks like the Yukon gear kit contains a pinion seal. Am I correct and that would be taken care of in the other re-gear work?

Q10: Any other things I may want to consider?

 

Q1- yes, those are measured tire sizes.
Q9- pinion seal typically is replaced with the new pinion going in.
Q10- will your installer warranty parts that he didn't buy? That'll be a question for the shops as you visit them. Some will, some won't.


Keeping an eye on this because I want to regear too and lockers are nice but really not necessary for the daily driver so the expense isn't justifiable.

 

Great point. I'm more concerned about if they'll warranty the labor and if they perform a follow up inspection check. However, I am unsure how they would determine the difference between an install problem or a part problem in regards to warranty. If I purchase this gear kit for $540, it seems to be about half the price of other places I've checked thus far on price, so I'm currently leaning towards a view of "F the parts warranty" but thinking there may not be a clear dividing line between parts and labor in regards to warranty when it comes to a re-gear.

Google took me to this discussion thread in regards to shops in my area: DTS and Ring & Pinion seem to be good recommended shops.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...r-swap-316653/

Both are in my area.

 

Q4:
I found this online from Eaton. P/N: 912A585 seems to be the one I want for the front to go with the 4.88 gears.


Both LSDs I have linked from Amazon don't match the rear P/N but both are really close to the P/N 913A589 for the rear.

 

The problem is even leaving that door open. Ideally, installer would be reputable, but, you leave the door open for them to say "nope, that's not my work, that is due to the part failing". At that point, what are you going to do, even if YOU think it is the labor?" Honestly, I'd just get some all-in quotes for the job. Then, continue to do your research and possibly ask if you brought parts, would they warranty and what would the labor be. The price you see for those Yukons is a good price, but it's not half price. IDK why sites are showing $1100 for Yukon gear sets and master install kits, cuz they are definitely NOT that. You should expect a little more than Motive or other brands, but not 2.5X. My buddy installs Yukon kits all day long for $1250 parts and labor. I promise he's making a decent amount on the job. IIRC, when we did mine, I was in it $500 for gears and install kits at his cost. Obviously cost of the job varies greatly based on location. There's a lot of competition in my area. The job can be done as cheap as $900 from some real shady characters, up to $1500. I think my buddy says $1500, but one of those things there is ALMOST always a $250 "coupon". Will be curious to hear what they charge in your neck of the woods.

I think most places around here like to install Motive gears which allow them to price the job a little cheaper......and a lot of people don't know to ask what brand is being used, or even know the differences in brands. It's one of those things.....my personal opinion is Yukon is better, but I don't have scientific evidence to back that up, and I don't think that using a different brand is going to cause your diff to blow up or not. Most people whose gears blow up either 1) had a bad install, or 2) are out doing dumb ace things with their jeep....driving like it's sponsored by someone....trying to treat a D44 like it's a D60.

I think more importantly than the final cost is finding someone you really trust. A shop quoting you an all-in price may not be supplying a master install kit. They may be using shims they have, re-using ring gear bolts, etc.; however, if you supply the master install kit, there’s no way to guarantee the shop isn’t cutting corners, like saving a little time by not pressing on new bearings on the carrier (seen that happen here in town). Anything that can save them time or money is more profit in their pocket. That is why it’s really about feeling comfortable with the person, and the general quality of the work coming out of the shop.

If the install kits don’t come with LubeLockers, spend the few extra bucks to get a couple. It’s really nice to pull diff cover off and not have to jack with RTV. I mention that because most shops will just drain and inspect the gear oil for bits of metal, without actually pulling the cover and setting their eyes on the gears. If you have a LubeLocker, it’s convenient to let them do their inspection, then go home, drain the oil (making sure they have put new in and not reused the oil), pull the cover, and take a good look for yourself. If it is new oil, you can easily just reuse it. Any time I’m changing gear oil, my cover is coming off and I’m taking a good look at things. Unless you just love scraping RTV, the LubeLockers are great and can be used over and over. I’m couple years on my Lube Lockers and they’re still in good shape.

Anyhow, there are a few things to consider.

 

913A589 and 913A589 should be the correct ones. The 44 uses 3.73 and down because of the thick ring gear thing

Way back when, there was some talk about the factory using two different sizes of ring gear bolts, and the possibility of having to get the holes on truetracs drilled out. (which that partial chart you posted alludes to.) TT's use a very hardened metal, so it will likely take a machine shop to do it --> if you find yourself in that position. I don't recall if it was only certain years that were affected, but I haven't seen anyone complaining the last few years so probably only the 3.8 generations.

Definitely talk to your install shop about the cost and warranty differences when buying parts through them. From checking half a dozen local shops, I found a very large discrepancy on price and warranty based on who supplied the parts.

And as far as the truetrac vs a full locker goes, it's really hard to go wrong with these things. Great traction devices for the majority of us, and seems to pair well with the BLD. Get both.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the gear prices Resharp, I'll hold off for now and go to the shops to get an all inclusive quote to see how labor with parts compare and request the Yukon gear kit be used for those quotes. I already have lube lockers installed. Did that when I replaced my diffy covers where it just looked much simpler using those instead of RTV when doing the job myself.

What I think I'll do is provide the shops the list of parts/part numbers that I want installed and have them give me an all inclusive price of parts and labor. I'll go to both shops I mentioned earlier to get some quotes and see what comes back. I have no personal experience with either, just what I found suggested on the forum which are in my area.

 

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/spon...8/#post4327555

Have not looked at that very closely, but you might see if it's worthwhile.