In January I did a lift on my Jeep. I did a 3.5" lift then I put 37's on it to match. Loved it, but it was time to regear. I have a 2014 Rubicon, so when I did the gear calulations I found 4.56 gears would put me about 2750 on the highway at 75mph, so I did them. I got the Yukon master install kit, and over the course of a week or two I did the gears, got a great pattern, and put it all back together. The gears, turned out fantastic. Probably would have been better with 4.88s but I digress. During the gear install, I had to hammer out the front hubs because they were rusted shut. I also cracked off the driver's wheel speed sensor because it had almost rusted into the hub. When I put everything back together, I had picked up a brand new Mopar wheels speed sensor, and installed it in the driver's front. The initial test of the install was perfect. Everything was working, no gear noise, driving slowly in forward in reverse for a few minutes just making sure I had connected everything, and testing the sway disconnect/diff locks, etc. As soon as we started going over 5mph, the dash lights came on, front right wheel started slowing us down, and the crawl mode thing started flashing. I used Jscan to pull the codes, and found the front left sensor was throwing an implausible U1409 code. It would also throw C1014 code for left front wheel speed comparative performance. I figured maybe the wheel speed sensor was bad, but I took everything apart again on the driver's side to check. I had to drill out the old plastic plug from the wheel speed sensor, so I thought maybe some of the plastic was still in the tone ring area, and potentially could be making it harder for the system to read the ring gear inside. Sure enough, I found some plastic, and I got it all out, put some more white lithium on everything and put it all back together. Same issue. Sometimes it wouldn't shift out of 1st and keep the torque converter locked, as if you put the trans in 1st. After a few minutes, it would start shifting again, the two lights would remain on, but it was completely drivable with no other issues, other than the cruise control not working due to the displayed warnings. Obviously, I have been trying to fix it, and I noticed when I removed the black plastic pieces that the ring gear seemed to be kind of wavy, like it was a different distance from the center of the hole as it was going around, sort of like a wobbly wheel on the balancer. I thought about it, and came up with the idea that when I was bashing the hubs out with a sledge hammer to pull the axle shafts out so I could clean them and do the gear job, that it shifted the tone gear in that hub.

Yesterday, I took both brake calipers in the front off, and removed the wheel speed sensors. I could see that the driver's side was much more wavy than the passenger side, and it was maybe 1/8" off from smooth as it would go around. The passenger side was maybe 1/32". Figuring I had found the issue, I took a small screwdriver and inserted it into the wheel speed sensor hole and pushed the ring to the outer area of the assembly. It went probably a 1/4". After doing it a few times and rotating the hub as I was doing this to make it even all the way around, I got it so it was consistent, and the ring gear was basically right under the outer edge of the hole as I would rotate the hub assembly. Feeling that I had 100% figured it out, I stupidly did the same thing to the passenger, pushing that ring gear out the other outer area, where it probably moved a total of 1/32nd or so to the outside of the hub assembly. Proud of myself like an idiot, I put everything back together. Now it was even worse. BOTH wheel speed sensors were throwing codes, no matter how many times I turned it on and off it wouldn't shift out of first, the torque converter stayed locked, and I couldn't clear the codes unless I was going under 5mph. Obviously I made it worse.

What to do? I'm thinking I clearly messed up the driver's side hub when I removed it from the rusted housing when I did the gears. The passenger one was probably shifted a bit, but not enough to cause an issue, until I forced the ring further away from where it needed to be and subsequently causing an issue.

Before I buy two new hub assemblies for the front, is there anyway I can take these apart and time the rings correctly? If not, is there a way I can bypass this entire system because I want to wheel this Jeep a lot, and we are going to be in the mountains with nothing around us. I would be positively furious if I was stuck two hours from home and had to drive at 10 mph home because some stupid wheel speed sensor went bad lol.

Thanks in advance for reading, I will post back up even if no one replies, once I figure it out. That way if anyone has any issues they can learn from my mistakes!

 

The units are non-serviceable but they're cheap to replace (considering what you've already bought). For the most part, the nicer ones will all be Iljin in various boxes (Spicer, Timken, etc). Swap the whole assembled unit in with their sensors. Keep your new Mopar ones as spares.

As far as bypassing the system, I don't think the later years had a simple fuse you could pull, but you can always just unplug the sensor (behind the shock tower) and with zero input coming in, it'll throw a code but let you on your way....without cruise control or ABS since it doesn't have info to make those decisions. Usually it'll realize something isn't right and just ignore that input (while giving you a code) and allow you to continue. Have you read the data with Jscan to see the sensor jumping all over the place as you drive?

 

Thanks Karl! I have not done that with Jscan, but I would like to do that. Where in Jscan is reading the wheel speed sensor at? In the live data I presume? Do you know anything about the tone rings, you think I did mess up the alignment and they are pressed on at a certain distance from where the sensor will read at? I wonder if I could dig in there and pull them back to where they need to be lol!

 

TIme to pick up a new hub. Kinda sounds like bearings in it are bad, hence the tone ring is a bit wonky as it rotates and the ABS sensor is picking that up. The unit bearings aren't expensive and it's not too long to swap one out as you know given the work you've done.

**got tied up on response and Karl came in for the win.

I went through a stretch fighting this same code over and over. I have a free spin hub kit, but same thing in that bad bearings led to tone ring misalingment picked up by sensor over and over. As Karl noted, that unit bearing is not servicable.

 

Just looking, and it appears like there is just one part number for the front bearing assembly. I thought that the allen screw was on the back side on both left and right, but I'm guessing it must be just rotated and it's on the forward side on one of the corners. I can't find a separate listing for left and right.

 

Anti lock brake module, live data, wheel speed (I go with speed and put it on a chart so you can see if a wheel is different than the rest).

Regarding part numbers- yes, it's a singular part number that fits both sides. The speed sensor will be rotated towards the front of the vehicle....though it's clear when you start lining back up your brake dust shields.

 

Cześć
Mam problem z tym samym błędem - założone nowe piasty mopar oraz czujniki przód i tył również mopar. Auto postało w wodzie około 2 godziny i pojawił się błąd skrzyni P1731 oraz P0730 - olej był czysty jak sprawdzałem, na magnesie nie było opiłków. Wlałem nowy olej. Przez chwilę jest dobrze i problem powraca. Auto gubi biegi. JScan zrobiłem reset skrzyni oraz ustawiłem wysokość kół na 33,5" (opony BF KM03 35". Pomożecie?

***Edit for translation -
Hi
I have a problem with the same error - new mopar hubs and sensors front and back also mopars. The car stood in the water for about 2 hours and the P1731 and P0730 gearbox error appeared - the oil was clean as I checked, there were no filings on the magnet. I poured new oil. It is fine for a while and the problem returns. The car loses gears. JScan I reset the box and set the wheel height to 33.5 "(BF KM03 35" tires. Will you help?

 

If you replaced the front hubs and also the rear speed sensors then those are likely good and this is pointing more to the transmission. I believe the oil you are referring to was the differentials, but the mechanical gearing shouldn't have anything to do with these codes. You might double-check your transmission fluid looks clean given you were in water for so long. Other than that I think you're looking at the transmission solenoid, or internal tranny issue, though this is definitely not an area of expertise for me. If one of the ABS sensors was causing an issue bad enough to keep you in limp mode you'd see a code in the tranny module on Jscan, though I presume there is nothing there since you are only noting the 2 codes above.

 

Dziękuję

 

Brokat, I didn't have either of those codes when I was servicing my wheel speed sensors. I think resharp is right, and you are unfortunately looking at some type of transmission error. Try searching the forum for those codes and see if you can find anything. Maybe check the JK Facebook group for previous posts on it. Good luck!