Hi everyone, new at the forum here.

I've been trying to figure out what is the best set up for me as the following: I'm lifting my 2018 JK to just a 2.5 inch lift.

1) I don't go hardcore off roading, neither plan on to. Probably green to moderate trails and probably only like 4 times a year.
2) It's my daily driver. Needs to be safe and comfortable for long distance travels in the highway, speeds not exceeding 75 mph (honestly).
3) On a somewhat budget. But I plan on keeping the rig for a long time, if not forever.

I've lifted my old 2002 Grand Cherokee (150K miles) and I am familiar with a number of things that go underneath the jeeps so, speak jeep to me.
This is what I purchased so far. Have not installed it yet as I know I'm missing a few components, I'm taking my time.

I got the TeraFlex 2.5 inch lift with the front and rear coils and shocks, rear relocation trackbar bracket, front and rear bump stops, and break line relocation brackets.
I also got the skyjacker dual steering stabilizer.

MY QUESTION IS:
- I noticed it drags a bit with the 35's already, but other than that, am I messing up my gears/transmission if I don't change it ?
- Should I go with Geo brackets, or control arms?
- Also, I haven't found geo brackets for the rear, why is that? Well, MetaClock has one, for like $350 just the brackets. If I can avoid that, I will. But will I be messing up my caster in the back?
- I also want to throw in some wheel spacers to get a better stance, and more clearance on my 35''s with the stock wheels. But spacers freak me out, is it safe? Remember I'm a daily jeep driver, long distance etc but not much off roading.
- Do I need exhaust spacer for the 2.5 inch lift?
- Front trackbar, I probably need that too for the lift, right?

those are my main questions for now as far as I remember.

I'm half way ready to lift, any advice helps!
Cheers

 

It's hard when people show up with a few questions and have already bought some things cuz a lot of times we would have steered you this way or that way so I'll keep my response to your questions except for saying I'd return that steering stabilizer if you can. You do not need a dual SS, nor would I want one. The cheapest SS or the factory unit is perfectly fine in that application. It doesn't do a heck of a lot, but when you do have a gremilin show up in the steering system, do you want to know about it or do you want to cover it up till it gets worse and worse and you experience a bigger failure an at inopportune time?

- No you are not messing up your gears or tranny with your 35s, though a programmer is useful and doesn't have to be expensive. Jscan app + BT dongle will run you $50 maybe and is a very dynamic diagnostics tool in addition to programmer. It won't make a huge performance difference, but it would be better if the computer knew your real tire size.

- For the use you stated I'd go with control arm brackets. A little loss of ground clearance at the frame rail is not going to affect you and the brackets will position the arms in a much flatter orientation which will be better for on pavement manners. In the rear you're only worried about pinion angle (no caster), and the rear DS is pretty forgiving with 2 CV joints. You should be perfectly fine, but if you did need to adjust the pinion angle in the rear you could do it with 2 upper arms.

- There is no reason to be freaked out by wheel "adapters". There are reputable manufacturers out there like Spidertrax that have been used forever. I just wouldn't pick some cheap eBay special ya know. The only real drag to them is if you have to remove things for a repair it's a whole nother set of bolts.

- Some would say you don't need an adjustable front TB with a 2.5" lift. Your front axle will be bit off-center to the driver's side....but not by a whole lot. My opinion would be to get one, and a good one at that as it's one of the most important components in the front end. Stick with a bushing style joint in that component.

- With a 2.5" lift and not really off-roading, you're probably fine without exhaust spacers. Doesn't sound like DS clearance at the exhaust is going to be a major concern. You could always add em later if you deemed it necessary.

Welcome to JKF btw. I'm just on the west side of Fort Worth myself.

 

That actually answered all my doubts to the point.

I’ve heard bad and good things about the dual SS and just wasn’t sure ‘for me’ what would be best. It’s in the box still as I’m still gathering components. You made up my mind in switching to just a single SS, I’m the type who hears a rattle and goes gun hold on fixing it up. I don’t need no dampener on problems. 🤟🏼

thanks for the suggestion on the programmer, gonna get that too when the bank account settles. 😂

I got the brackets as soon as I read your response, I was already 90% decided on them, you also helped me confirm.

I actually have the spidertrax adapters in the cart. You say 1.5’’ should clear the 35 rub when turning yes? Or should I go for 2’’. These are temporary long term, until I get a new set of wheels with the appropriate backspacing (4.5’’ correct me if I’m mistaken)

howdy from south Austin !!!!
If you ever come down here for some off roading (I don’t know) hit me up!

 

1.5" adapters will work. Your factory wheel is 6.25" BS so the adapter will put you at 4.75" BS which is fine for 35x12.5's

 

Didn't see if mentioned, but Rear swaybar links came with the kit? And you will then move the stock rear links up front.

 

You are right I didn’t mention.

yes it does come with the rear sway bar links!
and the rear ones will go to the front until I get the quick release ones from JKS. I think they are pretty sweet. Thoughts?

 

I've been running the JKS disco's since 2008, no issues, they have worked just fine for me. (though I do not know if they are still the same design or if there have been changes/updates.) Some folks like the Teraflex type that swing up and reconnect, rather than removing links, just personal preference I guess.

Oh, also been running SpiderTrax for about 7 years now with no issues. 37's, 4.5" backspace rims with 1.5" spacers for an effective 3.0" backspace.