Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Going from 37s to 39s

Thread Tools
 
Old May 4, 2021 | 10:30 AM
  #1  
BLK HOLE's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 100
Likes: 19
From: San Antonio
Default Going from 37s to 39s

So I'm upgrading from 37s (MTRs) to 39s (KM3s, so really 38.5s). I already rub some on hard over, fully weighted flex...so I'll def replace the stock old bump stops with poly (old ones are dry rotting)...but need recommendations on bump stop extensions...I currently have a 4" lift and would consider a combo of spring spacers and bump stop extensions as well. I'm a little concerned with going over 4" and my center of gravity. But honestly don't know much about that.

Anyone with a similar setup or knowledge that can chime in? Pic is current config.

Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 10:55 AM
  #2  
Sv_dude's Avatar
Super Moderator
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 857
Likes: 123
From: Prescott, AZ
Default

I’m using dv8 hydro bump stops and hockey pucks. I drilled a 1/2” hole in the center of my spring perch, then another 1/2” hole through the center of hockey pucks. Use a 1/2” x 2 3/4” countersink bolt and you’re done. my bolt length is 2 3/4” since I’m using two hockey pucks. If you need more or less just add or subtract an inch for each puck.

No need to spend a lot for fancy extensions.

Edit: I think metalcloak actually does the exact same thing and they charge $90 for it. I spent about $15-$20 for mine.

Heres metalcloaks setup:




Last edited by Sv_dude; May 4, 2021 at 10:59 AM.
Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 11:14 AM
  #3  
BLK HOLE's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 100
Likes: 19
From: San Antonio
Default

Originally Posted by Sv_dude
I’m using dv8 hydro bump stops and hockey pucks. I drilled a 1/2” hole in the center of my spring perch, then another 1/2” hole through the center of hockey pucks. Use a 1/2” x 2 3/4” countersink bolt and you’re done. my bolt length is 2 3/4” since I’m using two hockey pucks. If you need more or less just add or subtract an inch for each puck.

No need to spend a lot for fancy extensions.

Edit: I think metalcloak actually does the exact same thing and they charge $90 for it. I spent about $15-$20 for mine.

Heres metalcloaks setup:

haha, wait...you actually used ACTUAL hockey pucks? Thats....awesome. I'm OK with that too. Do you think that would work on the back too?
Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 11:27 AM
  #4  
Sv_dude's Avatar
Super Moderator
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 857
Likes: 123
From: Prescott, AZ
Default

Originally Posted by BLK HOLE
haha, wait...you actually used ACTUAL hockey pucks? Thats....awesome. I'm OK with that too. Do you think that would work on the back too?
Ive used hockey pucks in all my rigs over the years. And yes, actual hockey pucks... ice hockey pucks. I’ll send a pic soon if my front setup. I don’t use a large area washer and button bolt like metalcloak does, I think it’s best if the pad on the bump stop has a flat smooth surface to strike rather than a button head bolt or the edge of a large washer.



The rear uses a square pad between the axle and frame bump stop but I don’t see why a puck won’t work back there too if you drill for it. Don’t quote me on that because I haven’t touched my rear bumps so I don’t know if there’s real estate for a nut/bolt setup like the front has.
Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 11:30 AM
  #5  
BLK HOLE's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 100
Likes: 19
From: San Antonio
Default

Originally Posted by Sv_dude
Ive used hockey pucks in all my rigs over the years. And yes, actual hockey pucks... ice hockey pucks. I’ll send a pic soon if my front setup. I don’t use a large area washer and button bolt like metalcloak does, I think it’s best if the pad on the bump stop has a flat smooth surface to strike rather than a button head bolt or the edge of a large washer.



The rear uses a square pad between the axle and frame bump stop but I don’t see why a puck won’t work back there too if you drill for it. Don’t quote me on that because I haven’t touched my rear bumps so I don’t know if there’s real estate for a nut/bolt setup like the front has.
Yeah forgot the rear was a rectangular box with a 2 bolt setup. Washers or some spacer would work fine there I think. Thats an easy fix.

Thank you for the suggestion. I'm going to take it.

Any words of wisdom on taking the 4" to 5" with coil spacers? I don't want to throw off the center of gravity but also don't want to limit up-travel if I don't have to.

Thanks again.
Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 11:35 AM
  #6  
Sv_dude's Avatar
Super Moderator
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 857
Likes: 123
From: Prescott, AZ
Default

Here’s my current setup (hydro bump stops are being installed tomorrow).





As for your lift, you have plenty of lift for the tire size. Just add bump stops or cut the Jeep out of the way of the tires. You’re going to lose up travel but you can gain down travel by relocating your shock brackets on the axle. There’s really no way to not lose up travel without cutting some of the body and fender out of the way. I don’t like the idea of a tall lift due to center of gravity. My setup uses a 3” lift, 2” bump stops, and 37” tires. I need to relocate my axle side shock mounts too but that’s another project for another day.
Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 11:48 AM
  #7  
BLK HOLE's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 100
Likes: 19
From: San Antonio
Default

Originally Posted by Sv_dude
Here’s my current setup (hydro bump stops are being installed tomorrow).





As for your lift, you have plenty of lift for the tire size. Just add bump stops or cut the Jeep out of the way of the tires. You’re going to lose up travel but you can gain down travel by relocating your shock brackets on the axle. There’s really no way to not lose up travel without cutting some of the body and fender out of the way. I don’t like the idea of a tall lift due to center of gravity. My setup uses a 3” lift, 2” bump stops, and 37” tires. I need to relocate my axle side shock mounts too but that’s another project for another day.
Very nice and you've been helpful. Thank you.

What relocation brackets did you use?
Reply

Trending Topics

Old May 4, 2021 | 11:53 AM
  #8  
Sv_dude's Avatar
Super Moderator
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 857
Likes: 123
From: Prescott, AZ
Default

Originally Posted by BLK HOLE
Very nice and you've been helpful. Thank you.

What relocation brackets did you use?
No problem, glad I could help.

I didn’t relocate my shocks yet but I’ll likely use tmr brackets. There’s a few others that will rotate the bottom end of the shock but tmr is what comes to mind.
Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 12:18 PM
  #9  
BLK HOLE's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 100
Likes: 19
From: San Antonio
Default

Originally Posted by Sv_dude
No problem, glad I could help.

I didn’t relocate my shocks yet but I’ll likely use tmr brackets. There’s a few others that will rotate the bottom end of the shock but tmr is what comes to mind.
Thank you....learned something new today.
Reply
Old May 4, 2021 | 02:20 PM
  #10  
chiapeteater's Avatar
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 278
Likes: 51
From: Mentor, Oh
Default

Metalcloak makes a front shock relocation bracket also that rotates the bottom 90 degrees. Easy to install, no welding.
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:05 AM.