I have not seen this really adressed too much. I see that it is recommend to use antisieze on the factory hardware when putting on the track bars. This got me thinking, it would seem that if you were to add this stuff to a fairly new bolt, or one that has some rust/damage, 125ft lb would be different for both of them. For instance, it may take 150ftlb on a 2007, but to obtain the same tightness on a 2009 it may take only 120ftlb to get the desired tightness because the quality of the bolt. My theory came from fixing a galvanized fence of mine, It seemed like it took 300ftlb just to thread a damn bolt. Maybe this is why there is some death wobble with some folks and some dont. It would seem prudent to just replace all factory bolts. Thoughts?

 

That's exactly RIGHT. When you see a torque spec, it is always with the fastener DRY. However, there are many instances where the fastener cannot be installed dry. Many head bolts are a good example. It the head bolt hole is not "blind" and runs completely through the cylinder head deck into the water jacket, then certainly the bolt must have some sealant, which will affect the torque value.

However, it is more important that head bolts all torque the SAME rather than to a specific spec. Sealant on head bolts will not have an effect so adverse that the head gasket will be compromised over. This is why I always torque head gaskets on the high side. There are not many engines in the automotive world that I can think of that do not have head bolt holes that do NOT run into the water jacket. Torque values are very important, but what is more important is the consistancy of the head bolt torque from bolt to bolt.

 

I use never sieze on anything i would like to remove and or adjust in the future without having to use torches,air hammers and other form of mechanical violence

 

I used it on my adjustable components like track bars & control arms.

 

everything on the suspension, I have to in Ohio or it'll be rusted tight in days..

 

It would make sense to use on the control arms and track bars, portion that is inserterd into the shaft(adjustable part), but since the bolts are galvanized ( at least I think they are) would you really need antisieze, at least not initially. Also, could this be a reason as to why track bars are ripping off, people are putting antisieze on a good bolt , thinking they are torquing to 125, but in actuality, potentially torquing to >150-200ftlb and putting waaay to much stress on the bracket. Just thinking aloud, really trying to dig deep into all of this and understand.

 

I use it sparingly on the track bars, But I still use it.

On my TJ, I decided not to use it on the track bar bolts, I ended up having to cut them off with a grinder.

 

If you're looking for something to seal fastners from rust and corosion, some sort of silicone sealant actually works better than anti sieze. Anti sieze can deteriorate and wash off over long periods, whereas silicone sealants are much more permanent. I like the Ultra Red, because it is impervious to temperature, too.

 

I use anti seize on all my aftermarket parts but only on the threads that are exposed to the elements and only after all bolts are torqued down to spec.

 

thanks for the tip