Sway Bar Light
A week or so ago, I ran Rock House Canyon, the the Anza Borrego Desert. It's a moderate trail with a few "rock gardens" that required 4L and the sway bar to be disconnected for best traction. When I reconnected the sway bar and shifted out of 4 low, the dash indicator light went out. BUT, when I shifted into 2 high, the dash sway bar light began to blink and has done so ever since. I have run through all of the routines mentioned in the Owner's Manual including rocking the front bumper to reconnect the sway bar and shifted from 4 low to 4 high to 2 high, all on level ground, and the light is still blinking. I visited Jack Powell Jeep, in Escondido, this morning and they asked me to bring it back tomorrow morning when they could put a trained "Tech" on the problem. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? BTW, the sway bar seems to be reconnected, but the sensor system may be the problem. I hate to pay for some Tech's "On the Job Training." Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks,
Fred
Fred
Mine was flashing for a while last weekend after getting off the trail. I let it flash for a while when in 2wd, driving down the highway, then I hit the sway bar button again and it went out. Almost as if it was flashing saying it couldn't disconnect because I was in 2wd, then when I hit the button it quit trying. I'd poke the button once while driving, if it doesn't stop after a couple mins, hit it again, see what happens. maybe go all the way into 4L and disconnect, then reconnect and shift through 4H then 2H. I know, pointless information, and shit you probably already tried, just thought I'd throw it out there. Hope it gets straightened out for ya.


i believe that none of the dealer ships can do anything other than change oil and dont stock parts unless its regular maintenance.. i was left a quart low by a dealer oil change...and a horn button that fell in my lap on the freeway !!!!
i think mopar has a tech phone line that may help...might have to fix your self...
i think mopar has a tech phone line that may help...might have to fix your self...
Took my 2008 JK "Xicon" to my local dealership this morning. It is out of base warranty period. They performed all of the required tests, many of which I ran myself as mentioned above. The results are summarized below:
- Electrically, it seems to be fine with no trouble codes generated.
- Mechanically, we got problems. The "actuator" is not reconnecting one, or maybe both of the sway bar arms when prompted to do so. This takes place in an aluminum
"motor" box which sits behind the front bumper just a little right of center. It is easy to see and both ends of the sway bar are reconnected, or disconnected, in this box.
- The Tech who worked on my JK is what I call a "hammer mechanic." When sealed parts stop working, for no apparent reason, he reaches into his tool box and selects a small "calibrating hammer" and gently taps around the suspected trouble area. If he obtains no results he may replace the small hammer with a mid sized "diagnostic hammer" used to tap the suspect part with more gusto and listen for internal echos, somewhat like sonar. What he is listening for is a tell tail "click" or "thunk" which would indicate the movement of an internal part. This high tech approach actually worked and he reconnected the sway bar and the dash light when out. All is well. He did it a second time to show me the exact place on the motor box to hit. It worked again.
This low tech approach to reconnect the sway bar won't work forever and at some point I will have to replace the dreaded motor box - at a cost of $1,700 + labor. A cool $2,000 should just about cover the replacement. My other option is to never disconnect the sway bar. I remember cursing the pin discos on my TJ when they wouldn't reconnect instantly. I miss those days. BTW, the dealership do not charge me a cent for this diagnostic work.
- Electrically, it seems to be fine with no trouble codes generated.
- Mechanically, we got problems. The "actuator" is not reconnecting one, or maybe both of the sway bar arms when prompted to do so. This takes place in an aluminum
"motor" box which sits behind the front bumper just a little right of center. It is easy to see and both ends of the sway bar are reconnected, or disconnected, in this box.
- The Tech who worked on my JK is what I call a "hammer mechanic." When sealed parts stop working, for no apparent reason, he reaches into his tool box and selects a small "calibrating hammer" and gently taps around the suspected trouble area. If he obtains no results he may replace the small hammer with a mid sized "diagnostic hammer" used to tap the suspect part with more gusto and listen for internal echos, somewhat like sonar. What he is listening for is a tell tail "click" or "thunk" which would indicate the movement of an internal part. This high tech approach actually worked and he reconnected the sway bar and the dash light when out. All is well. He did it a second time to show me the exact place on the motor box to hit. It worked again.
This low tech approach to reconnect the sway bar won't work forever and at some point I will have to replace the dreaded motor box - at a cost of $1,700 + labor. A cool $2,000 should just about cover the replacement. My other option is to never disconnect the sway bar. I remember cursing the pin discos on my TJ when they wouldn't reconnect instantly. I miss those days. BTW, the dealership do not charge me a cent for this diagnostic work.
Last edited by Desert Fox; Dec 2, 2011 at 02:32 PM.
there is an after market gismo to manually do the same thing...just attach to swaybar mechanism...low cost too..
or intstall quick disconnects...too bad the button invention didnt solve all our problems
or intstall quick disconnects...too bad the button invention didnt solve all our problems
Took my 2008 JK "Xicon" to my local dealership this morning. It is out of base warranty period. They performed all of the required tests, many of which I ran myself as mentioned above. The results are summarized below:
- Electrically, it seems to be fine with no trouble codes generated.
- Mechanically, we got problems. The "actuator" is not reconnecting one, or maybe both of the sway bar arms when prompted to do so. This takes place in an aluminum
"motor" box which sits behind the front bumper just a little right of center. It is easy to see and both ends of the sway bar are reconnected, or disconnected, in this box.
- The Tech who worked on my JK is what I call a "hammer mechanic." When sealed parts stop working, for no apparent reason, he reaches into his tool box and selects a small "calibrating hammer" and gently taps around the suspected trouble area. If he obtains no results he may replace the small hammer with a mid sized "diagnostic hammer" used to tap the suspect part with more gusto and listen for internal echos, somewhat like sonar. What he is listening for is a tell tail "click" or "thunk" which would indicate the movement of an internal part. This high tech approach actually worked and he reconnected the sway bar and the dash light when out. All is well. He did it a second time to show me the exact place on the motor box to hit. It worked again.
This low tech approach to reconnect the sway bar won't work forever and at some point I will have to replace the dreaded motor box - at a cost of $1,700 + labor. A cool $2,000 should just about cover the replacement. My other option is to never disconnect the sway bar. I remember cursing the pin discos on my TJ when they wouldn't reconnect instantly. I miss those days. BTW, the dealership do not charge me a cent for this diagnostic work.
- Electrically, it seems to be fine with no trouble codes generated.
- Mechanically, we got problems. The "actuator" is not reconnecting one, or maybe both of the sway bar arms when prompted to do so. This takes place in an aluminum
"motor" box which sits behind the front bumper just a little right of center. It is easy to see and both ends of the sway bar are reconnected, or disconnected, in this box.
- The Tech who worked on my JK is what I call a "hammer mechanic." When sealed parts stop working, for no apparent reason, he reaches into his tool box and selects a small "calibrating hammer" and gently taps around the suspected trouble area. If he obtains no results he may replace the small hammer with a mid sized "diagnostic hammer" used to tap the suspect part with more gusto and listen for internal echos, somewhat like sonar. What he is listening for is a tell tail "click" or "thunk" which would indicate the movement of an internal part. This high tech approach actually worked and he reconnected the sway bar and the dash light when out. All is well. He did it a second time to show me the exact place on the motor box to hit. It worked again.
This low tech approach to reconnect the sway bar won't work forever and at some point I will have to replace the dreaded motor box - at a cost of $1,700 + labor. A cool $2,000 should just about cover the replacement. My other option is to never disconnect the sway bar. I remember cursing the pin discos on my TJ when they wouldn't reconnect instantly. I miss those days. BTW, the dealership do not charge me a cent for this diagnostic work.



