Here's a guy that's got some driveshafts for sale. Threads about a month old though and shipping from AZ would be a killer.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-suspension-112/08-rubicon-take-offs-tires-wheels-fenders-suspension-fenders-58443/

By the way, don't look at the dog in the picture. Because the dog, like the girls that worked at Chess King and Merry-Go-Round, is only there to distract you and make the sale.

 

my idea to do a 4" lift just went out the window b/c they suggest a new front drive shaft... so that lift kit got more expensive...

some say running the stock fron shaft on lifts of 3" or more will do the damage over time (possibly the cause of your boot too???) the rear is okay in unlimiteds but the angle of the front is to extreme.

SO how do you think the damage occured... especially with the axle shaft??? do you think it was the tires?? If so, I will be sticking with 33" until I have more funds to play with.

 

How did you manage to bang up your rear drive shaft and your rear axle???

 

The rear drive shaft was damaged on trail # 6 where I was high centered, resting the rear of the vehicle on the shaft which was resting on a big rock. As for the axle shaft, not sure. The tech guys at Jeep said that I may have bounced on it try to get over an obstacle or when the wheel was spinning and then caught traction. Not sure how it happened!

I tried to play dumb at first about the offroading thing but when they asked how the gas tank skid got a huge dent in it and if the smog canister had come off, I just sayed yeah, I went Tellico. From there the tech guy was asking how the trails were, he use to go up there.

 

Mike (rotorhead) wheels his red JK on 37's moderately hard with care, and I believe he's on stock axle shafts. I'll don't think he's had any problems, but will ask.

I wonder if your rear tire got wedged between a few rocks at some point.

 

I have gone over curbs in the city somewhat harder than some of the rocks. It may have got bound up on a rock at a crazy angle! Do you think that being that a lower air pressure had something to do with it? I had the tires at 17-18 pounds of pressure!

Which drive shaft do you prefer- Tom Woods or JE Reel? Downside on woods is that they are very pricey?

 

I don't think tire pressure was an issue. Speed had to be a factor, so any place you punched it is probably where it came from.

I like JE Reel and Tom Woods are priced similarly. That's from what I heard. I went with JE Reel, because they already knew the dimensions I needed. Tom Woods requires you to provide measurements.

 

I think they are all expensive, but I like doing business locally. You can get the larger joints (1350) and longer spline upgrades locally as well, and all for less money, with a warranty. The local guys also want a flange t flange measurement at rest. If it were to be bent, or break, or even lose a weight in the future, I just pull it, and run it by the shop, where they do a repair and it's back under the Jeep in just hours.. Just my 2 cents.

 

I guess maybe I'm just lucky that I haven't bent an axle shaft yet. I have heard of several people doing it. Tire pressure wasn't the cause. I ran 7.5 lbs last weekend. The only thing I can think of is that you got it bound up, or had a hard impact. I try to keep tire spin to a minimum, but sometimes it's needed. Just don't hammer down and burn out. I also stop when I start to get wheel hop.

As far as the drive shafts go, there isn't a whole lot of difference in JE Reel and Tom Woods in my opinion. I went with JE Reel based on price and don't have any complaints. I went with 1350's all around. If I had it to do over again, I would go with 1350 rear and 1310 front, only because the 1350 is overkill in the front and if something breaks, it ain't gonna be the u-joint. That only leaves the expensive stuff.

I don't know about Tom Woods customer service, but JE Reel has be very good to me. The first front shaft I had was contacting my transmission pan on flex and they sent me a new narrower one, not questions asked.

 

So I have talked with Dewayne of Drivelines of Atlanta, thanks Doug, and look to get the dirveshaft and axle fixed for about $400! Without the shop looking at it they may be able to retube the drive shaft and repalce the axel with a stock rubicon shaft!

I'll know more on Monday!