Truck-Lite's New LED Headlamp Series
I have the IPF H4 conversion on my 2008 Wrangler. It came with the harnesses to go from stock wiring to the H4 bulb. Will that harness work for the the new Truck-Lite 7" round, or do I need to get their harness? http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_6100.htm
I have the IPF H4 conversion on my 2008 Wrangler. It came with the harnesses to go from stock wiring to the H4 bulb. Will that harness work for the the new Truck-Lite 7" round, or do I need to get their harness? http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_6100.htm
Its an obnoxious flicker that is constant whether the vehicle is running or not. It sucks and can't be ignored, its that obvious. Think twinkling lights type of flicker. Do the lights work Hell Yes. Is it Trucklites fault I don't think so they make lights for multiple applications and can't be held accountable for Chrysler's doing. I'm happy with my purchase just not thrilled I have to shell out another buck thirty for a harness but I will because the light output is worth it.
I have the IPF H4 conversion on my 2008 Wrangler. It came with the harnesses to go from stock wiring to the H4 bulb. Will that harness work for the the new Truck-Lite 7" round, or do I need to get their harness? http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_6100.htm
Last edited by fadeout; Mar 4, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
You can use your existing Wire Adapter Plugs, but an actual SMS harness will help eliminate flicker. The SMS harness pulls power directly from the battery to maintain ~12 volts to the headlamps. There are threads here w/very good results using the SMS harness w/Hella/Cibie lamps.
plug the one end into the OEM plug which is connected to a black and red w/ relays that run to the battery for direct power which then have a wire that runs to the new headlight. Wire it all up with no splicing or cutting and BAM no more flicker since it's a constant power supply and you still retain control of the lights at the steering wheel. It's not cheap though tack on another $128.00 for the harness.
plug the one end into the OEM plug which is connected to a black and red w/ relays that run to the battery for direct power which then have a wire that runs to the new headlight. Wire it all up with no splicing or cutting and BAM no more flicker since it's a constant power supply and you still retain control of the lights at the steering wheel. It's not cheap though tack on another $128.00 for the harness.
They don't all flicker all the time. I have the previous Trucklites and there's a flicker that's barely noticable when you're idling. It's going to vary from rig to rig, depending on a few different things. Post pics when you have 'em in.


