Notices
Stock JK Tech Bulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.

2010 JK: No start (& no turnover)

Thread Tools
 
Old Nov 12, 2021 | 08:51 AM
  #1  
Boomer1969's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Default 2010 JK: No start (& no turnover)

(See Post #5 for the resolution to the problem)
I bought this Jeep last Spring and it has been running great until now. Problem started when the aftermarket heated seat stopped working. After several days of the heated seat issue I decided to check for blown fuses. Then, suddenly, I went to start and it would not turn over. All I heard was a click once I release the key from "start".
The "click" was coming from the TIPM, right under Run and Run Accessory relays. My instrument panel is lit up with "ESPOFF", traction control, ESPBAS, airbag, check eng, etc. (see picture). I cannot read any OBD codes either, I get a “Link Error”.
Below are things I've checked and tried to no avail:
-All fuses checked ok
-Battery tests fine (and is fairly new)
-Replaced Ignition Switch: I found a bogus red wire spliced into the "run/start" pink/white wire right off the ignition switch that I traced to the heated seat (see picture). So I removed the heated seat wire and re-soldered the pink/white wire back together
-Disconnected the fuse for "ignition-off draw" for a minute to reset
-Swapped relays for starter and run/start with other relays (same relay, swap w/ radiator fan)
-Jumper-wired the starter relay to confirm the starter works and cranks fine
-Bypassed clutch interlock switch by trying to start it in 4Low
-Did a "hard reset" of the TIPM by connecting disconnected battery terminals +/- for 10+hrs to drain capaciters, then did the 12s programming step w/ ignition switch
Does anyone have any suggestions on what other things I should try? I am thinking it could be a bad TIPM or something with the computer data lines for the CAN BUS (see starting wire diagram). Thoughts?



Last edited by Boomer1969; Nov 15, 2021 at 06:42 AM. Reason: Reduced wording
Reply
Old Nov 12, 2021 | 05:05 PM
  #2  
RoubsX2's Avatar
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 89
Likes: 8
From: Honolulu, HI
Default

With the wiring diagram and the the symptoms you described, it seems to point to the WCM / SKREEM module and maybe the ECU as well since there is no communication when scanning for codes. You could start some youtube searches along these lines.
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2021 | 06:58 AM
  #3  
Sixty4x4's Avatar
Super Moderator
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 509
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default

Make that wiring back to original and turf the heated seat connection first. IE go back to factory. Then start at the starter relay with someone holding the key and check for power. If none then go up towards the TIPM checking. I used to work as an eletrical maintenance guy in an automated production line and that method finds the problem every time.
Note: My 2008 has spots in the TIPM reserved for heated seats. I suggest if you want to keep them you look into yours for the same setup.
Reply
Old Nov 14, 2021 | 07:55 AM
  #4  
Boomer1969's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Default

Update:
Heated seat removed. I checked V at the starter solenoid at start and =0V. I ran a wire to starter solenoid and touched it to +battery with key turned on “run” and it cranks but no start. I don’t hear the fuel pump run when I turn the switch to run either and the fuel pump fuse is good with power to it with key turned to “run”. There is a high pitched “beep” when I reconnected that fuse btw.
I think my problem is coming down to the WCM or the TIPM. What do you think? I did try resetting the IOD fuse to no success (supposedly that confirms if it were a WCM if it starts, which it did not). So that would point then more to the TIPM. I did try the hard reset already a couple times. Thoughts on anything else I could try?

Last edited by Boomer1969; Nov 14, 2021 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Typo
Reply
Old Nov 14, 2021 | 08:25 AM
  #5  
Boomer1969's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Default

STOP THE PRESSES, I FIGURED IT OUT. I am a dumb ass. So I read another thread that had very similar symptoms and He found a blown fuse, M28 (NGS/Trans feed), which I checked before but never double checked. In double checking this, my problem was solved… So I must have put the 10A fuse back into the adjacent M26 vacant slot by mistake while I was checking fuses for the heated seat issue. Put it back and bingo, it started right up. If you have my symptoms, check fuse M28.

Last edited by Boomer1969; Nov 14, 2021 at 02:36 PM.
Reply
Old Jun 1, 2025 | 04:26 PM
  #6  
Tigger79's Avatar
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Granite City
Default

So thanx to you I was able to fix my problem. Apparently I too am a dumbass and did the same freaking thing. I had installed an aftermarket stereo & had the ACC line tied into the Compass. It blew the fuse. Well using only the light of my phone I pulled and replaced the M34 fuse that blew. I pulled other fuses to find anymore blown fuses, and apparently did the same thing. I don't even have power windows or mirrors. So sure enough put the fuse back into the freaking M28 slot and my car started right up.
Reply




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:01 PM.