2010 JKU - ABS / traction control / ESP problems
 

I'm having issues with my 2010 JKU for the last 4 or 5 months. It's something with the ABS / traction control / ESP system(s) and I can't figure it out. At first I would occasionally get the three lights on the dash, usually after I would hit a bump it seems. Kicking me out of cruise was the most annoying issue at first, but just as soon as they lite up, they would go away. When it first started happening I read the codes which pointed towards the right rear ABS sensor. No problem, got a new one and changed it. It was 100% for about a day and then it came right back. So I've lived with it for a bit and now it's started to get worse. Occasionally (every day, but not every time) when I hit the brakes I can feel the ABS pushing back, and now the last week or so it will basically kill the jeep for a couple of seconds, usually on acceleration, I just have to let out and coast a bit and it's back to normal. The lights are on now way more than they are off.

Here are the codes, they have never changed: C102B - right rear wheel speed sensor circuit; C1032 - right rear wheel speed sensor signal erratic performance; U1418 - implausible right wheel distance signal received.

Here is what I've done:

1) replace right rear wheel speed sensor - this didn't fix it, so then I lived with it for bit.
2) pulled both rear tires off, checked for play in the axle bearings. I don't know what good looks like but there is very very little play. A little in and out, but hardly anything up and down.
3) pulled the rear discs off and cleaned everything.
4) replaced the left rear wheel speed sensor - I found some places online that said this fixed their issue, so I thought why not.
5) I found the left rear caliper was sticking, I had noticed brake smell and this wheel was hot a couple of weeks earlier during a longer (~1 hour) drive. So I replaced the caliper. While I was at it I replaced all the rear pads, and rear brake hoses since I had a new set purchased with my lift.
6) I checked both plugs and the wiring up to the point where it attaches to the frame, about 1' of wire or so. No issues found.

So, at this point I'm at a loss unless there is an issue with an ABS module, or the wiring some where between here and there.

Any thoughts or idea on what to look at??

Thanks!!
Clay

Presume that each time you fiddle with things you're clearing the codes and they just come right back, and it's always the right. I know you've replaced that sensor. Have you tried swapping sensors from side to side just to confirm that the issue stays on the passenger side? If it does, I think you have to trace the wiring all the way up to the front to confirm nothing looks suspect. Have you looked at the tone ring on that passenger rear axle shaft closely to confirm there's not some dried dirt or something in there creating a bad signal as it rotates by the sensor? When you pull the sensor out, it doesn't appear as those there's been any contact with it right?

Correct, I clear the codes each time I jack with it, and yes, always the right side. I left it out, but I did originally replace the right wheel speed sensor and then last weekend I put the old right wheel speed sensor in the left rear position with no improvement. Yesterday I replaced the left wheel speed sensor with a new part, and still no improvement. In fact as soon as I cleared the codes and then started driving, the lights were back on and codes were back within the first 100 feet.

I'm not looking forward to it but I think you're probably right and I need to trace the wires all the way to the front. I also wonder about the U1418 code as that just points to the right side with no differentiation between front and rear. I hope the front isn't a contributor.

thanks,
Clay

The C codes are from the ABS module, and the U code is from the transmission module I believe. According to this list (https://bit.ly/2Difixk) that module only distinguishes left and right, and not front to back as you note. I really think if the front was coming into play at all you'd see a "C" code for the front as well. That is just my logic at least. Since it's free and only takes a couple minutes, definitely look at that tone ring as well. It's a really long shot that there is debris lodged between a couple teeth, but you just never know.

Yes Russ, C101C is front right, guess how I found out....yesterday on the way home with similar symptoms? It shows with erratic performance and circuit details just like his rears.

What brand sensor are you using? I don't recall there being any issues with house brand vs Mopar but I tend to go Mopar for sensors, even though it's nothing more than a magnet. For cleaning out those tone rings, I use a wire brush and get the gunk out. You'll also want to ensure the sensor itself doesn't have grease, oil, dirt, metal shavings, etc on it.


Keep us posted, we're here to help. Below is the freeze frame of my sensor readings and how one isn't quite like the others.
​​​​​​
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...35bbf09b96.jpg

I figured the same thing, that's why I haven't messed with it. I forgot to answer a couple of your questions above. I did get down to the tone ring on both sides and cleaned them out. They were dirty, but not packed solid. Both rear sides are clean now, and none of the sensors had any signs of rubbing the tone ring.

awesome graph! I need to see if I can do that with my code reader. I think I can, so I'll have to see what it shows me.

as for sensors, I've actually bought 3. 1 mopar, 1 autozone, 1 oreillys. Like you said, it's just a magnet. I've had the mopar in both spots, and the autozone on the right, oriellys on the left. No improvements shown with any.

thanks,
Clay

If the tone ring is clean, and there is no contact between the sensor and tone ring (ie, bearings are fine), it sure is starting to seem like more of an electrical issue.

Karl, is that screenshot live data from Jscan? I've not messed much with the live data in that app.

Yes, the graph data. I usually like the boxes better but I wanted to see if the sensor was moving at all. As you can see, it's reporting on its own frequency and certainly different speeds from the rest. Add it to the list to be done this weekend, luckily I've got another sensor in the box.


Your wires- they go up and cross over the top of the axle then start clipping into the frame- no grounds where it's resting on the frame, right? The loom gets brittle over time, or at least mine has.

Did you guys ever solve this? I’m having the same issue. Started off replacing the sensor. Then cleaned the tone rings. Then swapped the left and right sensor. Today I pulled the wires out of the loom to the breakout point and everything looked good to me. Any ideas?

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5d3c72d8b3.png
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...942aa1b8d5.png