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2012 48000 miles losing oil

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Old 05-12-2019, 11:10 AM
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Default 2012 48000 miles losing oil

Got an issue....2012 sport on 3rd set of heads is burning (I guess cause its disappearing and there are no leaks) oil. A month ago, maybe 500 miles I added a quart to go from none to full??? And now its empty again. No noticable signs ie loss of power, knocking etc. This is pissing me off and I am wondering who else had this issue, what you did and whats the outcome?

Any help is greatly appreciated....I'm about to trade this sob in for a mustang gt500
Old 05-13-2019, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jmpett31
got an issue....2012 sport on 3rd set of heads is burning (i guess cause its disappearing and there are no leaks) oil. A month ago, maybe 500 miles i added a quart to go from none to full??? And now its empty again. No noticable signs ie loss of power, knocking etc. This is pissing me off and i am wondering who else had this issue, what you did and whats the outcome?

Any help is greatly appreciated....i'm about to trade this sob in for a mustang gt500
first - normal oil consumption is 1 quart every 2k miles. Second its a 2012 with 48k so it sits alot - not good. Second check the oil cooler and oil pan for leaking (common). Third, go to dealer, get 2 bottles of engine oil dye, add dye to oil, drive 500 miles, pull plugs and black light spark plugs, oil cooler, oil pan, etc: If plugs glow you have piston ring damage and burning oil (not likely). You should be able to find source of leak this way. If all else fails, take it to a dealer and have them figure it out... 4TH, FORD sucks..
Old 05-13-2019, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jmpett31
Got an issue....2012 sport on 3rd set of heads is burning (I guess cause its disappearing and there are no leaks) oil. A month ago, maybe 500 miles I added a quart to go from none to full??? And now its empty again. No noticable signs ie loss of power, knocking etc. This is pissing me off and I am wondering who else had this issue, what you did and whats the outcome?

Any help is greatly appreciated....I'm about to trade this sob in for a mustang gt500
Here's the method I've evolved with various engines over the years:
  1. With relatively clean oil already in the engine, use an engine flush product (such as the amsoil engine flush) at fast idle (4lo).
  2. Change the oil (try 5w-40 diesel/gasoline rated) and filter.
  3. Replace the PCV valve.
The concept is that the compression rings can get sticky, resulting in excess blowby that creates more oil mist through the PCV (to the intake manifold), and sticky oil control rings let excess oil into the combustion chamber. The flush is for these possibilities. A slightly higher viscosity oil often reduces oil passed through the valve guides and piston rings, and a diesel/gasoline rated oil may reduce ring sticking with more detergency. Replacing the PCV is in case it's gummed-up (restricted), thus leaving more condensible contaminants in the oil that tend to gum-up the piston rings.

It's a shotgun approach, but the cost is minimal. A built in assumption is that one would notice a significant leak and the oil must be going out the exhaust.

Hate to mention this, but with the heads replaced 3 times there's the possibility of a screw-up during repair. What's the oil consumption history relative to the repair history?

Stay in touch,

Last edited by Mr.T; 05-13-2019 at 01:39 PM. Reason: Added more + question



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