So I've been searching all over the place for a spicer u joint to replace the front axle OEM u joint.

I keep finding the the 5-760x...but when I check fitment ir says it doesn't fit!

Can anyone help out. Thanks

 

5-7166x is what you're looking for. Pulling from jdinny's recent post, they made the change in late '12. I pulled down a screenshot of the info but the forum won't allow me to upload it from mobile.

 

Awesome! Thanks.

I got quoted 390.00 from the dealer to the right front after an inspection. I'm researching on how to do it myself.

Question....should I change out both driver and passenger at the same time?

 

It's up to you. I concur on part. It's the 1350 in the rubis. Same size stub shaft in some of the 13s. My passenger went out at 57k. At 103 the driver side is still good. So... your call. As far as doing it. I did mine myself the first time and took the axle to a local shop to press in the new joint for $40. I did not own a press at the time. Now I do. It took me 3 hours start to finish the first time. Now I can tear it down and put it back together in 45. You'll need a short 12 point 13mm socket time remove the hub and a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. (Some recommend replacing the axle nut once it's removed, since it is not side load bearing like the rear, I have no problem putting it back on if it looks good) Those would be the only specific tools. And because I'm like that, I always pull the diff cover and clean the diff with brake cleaner and change the fluid after I push the axle back in. I am not in favor of pushing any shit from my axle tube into the diff.

 

I choose to replace both of them when I do one. I'm more in the camp that while it may not be bad now, it will likely be soon behind the other.

That being said, if you're at lower mileage then I'd probably only replace one. Certainly do it yourself if you can pull it off. You can rent a ball joint tool/ front end tool (see harbor freight for examples) for cheap and it's an easy tool to use. Alternatively, you can hammer away or try to use a vice, but the front end tool makes it easy. Buy it on sale for $45 and keep it in your tool box for these types of fixes.

 

Here you go:
The axle u-joint change started in late '12.
Sports and Sahara's got the Rubicon size axle yokes.
U-joints switched from 760X to 7166X
New style yokes, DANA SPICER 5-7166X
Utilizes inside "C" Clips to lock u-joint in place.
Dimension A = 2.405 inches
Dimension B = 2.405 inches
Dimension C = 1.188 inches ( 1 3/16 inches )
Dimension D = 1.188 inches ( 1 3/16 inches )


Early style SPICER 5-760X, note the difference in ring retainer groove.
Dimension A = 2.188 inches ( 2 3/16 inches )
Dimension B = 2.188 inches ( 2 3/16 inches )
Dimension C = 1.188 inches ( 1 3/16 inches )
Dimension D = 1.188 inches ( 1 3/16 inches )

The difference between the '08 and the '18, is the '08 would take a 760X front axle u-joint, and the '18 would use a 7166X. Externally, all is the same, internally, the older axle shaft had smaller yokes, using the 760X

 

Great info...thanks.

 

You're welcome