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2015 Jeep JK 6 speed oil change

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 01:09 PM
  #1  
Rticul8's Avatar
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From: Pharr, Texas
Default 2015 Jeep JK 6 speed oil change

This may be a dumb question...

But I was dropped as a baby.

Anyways I have 2 quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh in my garage.
I have read that switching over to this oil on the NSG-370 really smoothens out the shifting.

My jeep has 1200 miles should I do it asap? Should I wait till my 3000k mile motor oil change? Or should I not do it at all due to warranty reasons? I know its an approved oil for sure.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 01:34 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Rticul8
This may be a dumb question...

But I was dropped as a baby.

Anyways I have 2 quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh in my garage.
I have read that switching over to this oil on the NSG-370 really smoothens out the shifting.

My jeep has 1200 miles should I do it asap? Should I wait till my 3000k mile motor oil change? Or should I not do it at all due to warranty reasons? I know its an approved oil for sure.
I've got a 2012 with the NSG-370 and just completed a fluid change at 20k. The factory fill was to the correct level, and replacing the oil that was in the with Pennzoil Syncromesh didn't seem to change much. It might be a *little* smoother, but almost imperceptible, and probably mostly imagined. The old fluid also came out very clean looking, if that matters.

If you feel it's worth it, do it. Shouldn't affect the warranty or anything else so long as Syncromesh still covers the spec and part number for the manual trans oil listed in your 2015 owner's manual. It's probably at least worth checking the fill level. I've heard some folks didn't get a full fill from the factory on their NSG's.

Edit: If you haven't already discovered, the drain plug is right over the exhaust, and using a 17mm hex socket probably won't fit.

Get an M10 bolt and 2 nuts to create your own drain plug tool. Thread them together using the end nut as a jam nut, chop off the bolt to a height that will fit between the exhaust and the drain plug, and undo the plug using your new "tool" and a wrench.

Be careful of the torque when reinstalling both the drain and fill plug. Torque it to spec...do NOT overtighten. You can crack the aluminum casing.

Last edited by jk_sea; Dec 3, 2014 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 01:51 PM
  #3  
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From: Sweet Home, TX
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At least check the level, when I swapped mine out at 30k miles it was about a half quart low, with no leaks (so from the factory), even though the stealership "checked" it on two different occasions.

Also, the fill plug was massively over torqued, thought I was going to crack the housing getting it out of there. Couldn't hurt to add a little anti-seize to the fill and drain plugs for good measure.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 04:12 PM
  #4  
mwtrent's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Chester, Virginia
Default

Originally Posted by jk_sea
I've got a 2012 with the NSG-370 and just completed a fluid change at 20k. The factory fill was to the correct level, and replacing the oil that was in the with Pennzoil Syncromesh didn't seem to change much. It might be a *little* smoother, but almost imperceptible, and probably mostly imagined. The old fluid also came out very clean looking, if that matters.

If you feel it's worth it, do it. Shouldn't affect the warranty or anything else so long as Syncromesh still covers the spec and part number for the manual trans oil listed in your 2015 owner's manual. It's probably at least worth checking the fill level. I've heard some folks didn't get a full fill from the factory on their NSG's.

Edit: If you haven't already discovered, the drain plug is right over the exhaust, and using a 17mm hex socket probably won't fit.

Get an M10 bolt and 2 nuts to create your own drain plug tool. Thread them together using the end nut as a jam nut, chop off the bolt to a height that will fit between the exhaust and the drain plug, and undo the plug using your new "tool" and a wrench.

Be careful of the torque when reinstalling both the drain and fill plug. Torque it to spec...do NOT overtighten. You can crack the aluminum casing.

You can also get a 17mm hex socket in the oil change tool section at Pep Boys. Pick up a 14mm as well as it'll come in handy too. I took the 17mm and placed it in another socket and used a large punch and a hammer and popped the hex part out of the socket. It was super easy, now i just use that and a 17mm wrench.

Parchment paper works like a charm on the exhaust crossover. Cut it a bit long and let it curl around the pipe. I like it better than using aluminum foil because the fluid doesn't stick to it.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #5  
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From: Sweet Home, TX
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Originally Posted by mwtrent
You can also get a 17mm hex socket in the oil change tool section at Pep Boys. Pick up a 14mm as well as it'll come in handy too. I took the 17mm and placed it in another socket and used a large punch and a hammer and popped the hex part out of the socket. It was super easy, now i just use that and a 17mm wrench.

Parchment paper works like a charm on the exhaust crossover. Cut it a bit long and let it curl around the pipe. I like it better than using aluminum foil because the fluid doesn't stick to it.
There appears to be some variation in the placement of the exhaust cross over, mine was way too close, had to cut down a hex tool with a hack-saw. Anything over 3/4in hit the crossover. very tight spot. good idea with the parchment paper!

Happy Jeeping!
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 03:08 AM
  #6  
12mile's Avatar
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From: Carmel, IN
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That is a good idea using the parchment paper.
Thanks
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 04:16 AM
  #7  
rob_engineer's Avatar
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From: brick, nj
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I bought a hex socket set at harbor freight. Maybe I just got lucky. The 17mm fit to the drain plug with no problem. The extension on the socket was nearly up against the exhaust pipe but I didn't have to modify anything. I did that at 28,000 miles on my 2012. I'm now at 52,000 and plan to do it again soon.
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