Stooge

Anyone ever remove the clutch slave cylinder on the transmission? DYI?

smokeman

Looks pretty simple per the manual. The slave cylinder is black/L-shaped and on the drivers side of the transmission near the front of the transmission. Imagine the L laying on its back to understand how its positioned. The instructions for removal and installation are below. Also, added some of my comments in braces below.

Removal
1. With transmission in neutral, position vehicle on hoist. (I just bled my clutch and its a tight fit, so I would recommend this step.)
2. Remove mounting nuts from slave cylinder. (One nut on top, and one nut on bottom.)
3. Pull hydraulic line clip and the line with bracket from slave cylinder.
4. Remove slave cylinder.

Installation
1. Install slave cylinder in transmission.
2. Install hydraulic line and with bracket to slave cylinder.
NOTE: Verify O-ring is on hydraulic line. (In other words, make sure it didn't fall out or its gonna leak.)

3. Install slave cylinder nuts and tighten to 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs.).
4. Bleed hydraulic system. (There is a valve on the slave cylinder that can be turned by hand to bleed the clutch. Once installed, just have someone hold the clutch pedal to the floor, open the valve to release the air, close the valve, and then pump the clutch around 25 times. You may need to repeat this a few times over the next few days to get all the air out. Also note, the clutch and brakes use the same fluid reservoir if you need to add brake fluid.)

Good Luck

Stooge

Smokeman

Could you add some more details re: bleeding the clutch.

I'd like to bleed the clutch slave with it on the vehicle. The fluid in there has to be about done at 50K. After a long ride, the clutch pedal seems spongy. Reaching down and holding the slave, it is fire hot (exhaust right there). I was hoping that some new fluid would help the problem.

I do see (and feel the bleeder). Its hard to get to and see, and points upward. I have a vacuum pump bleed (great for bleed brakes and stuff), and I'd like to use it the flush all the old brake fluid out of the slave circuit. But, it's real hard to see up there, hence, some more details on how to open the bleed valve would be great, another reason I was just going to take off the slave cylinder, just to let it hang to get better access to the bleeder valve.

Thanks for the help.

smokeman

I just had my clutch master cylinder replaced at the dealer under warranty. When I picked it up, I noticed that the clutch was to the floor so I went and told the tech. He came out and showed me how to bleed the clutch and told me that I might have to bleed all the air out over the next few days since any trapped air migrates after sitting awhile. I ended up bleeding it myself twice before the clutch was back to normal. To start, you can bleed the clutch with the engine not running so you don't get burned by the exhaust. As you said, the valve is at the tip of the slave. I simply turned it with my finger like you would a valve stem on a tire. Once you are ready to bleed the clutch, just have someone in the jeep push and hold the clutch pedal down to the floor after maybe a couple of pedal pumps. You can then reach under the jeep and open the valve to release any air. It takes a full turn of the valve to open it so keep turning until you hear air and feel fluid. You are gonna get a little fluid on your arm so be prepared. Once the air is done releasing, which only takes a second or two, close the valve and have whoever is sitting in the jeep pump the clutch pedal around 25 times to build pressure back up. Repeat until you feel comfortable all the air is out. As mentioned, you may have to do this again the next day after the jeep is sitting overnight. Although unlikely, keep an eye on your brake fluid level to make sure it has enough fluid in it since bleeding the clutch will cause some minor fluid spill. As for bleeding the clutch with a pump or letting the slave hang down, I did not need to do either. I just bled the clutch by hand as recommended and done by the tech.

smokeman

By the way in case you are wondering, they replaced my clutch master cylinder because whenever I pushed the clutch pedal down, it would make a creaking/rubbing noise. They said it was a diaphragm inside the clutch master cylinder that was making the noise. They also greased the pedal/spring as well. I never had any issue with clutch pedal pressure.

Stooge

Mine does the same - only sometimes when hot. So, I'll try to flush the fluid and see how that goes. Thanks for the help.

MightyJoe

I'm also getting a creaking when pushing my clutch pedal after driving a while. It sounds from under my jeep, not from the pedal itself. Should I try to bleed the clutch or you think it's the clutch slave cylinder itself?

Stooge

Bled mine this evening. The bleed nipple points upward on the back of the slave cylinder. The nipple is covered by a removable rubble cap like a breed bleeder screw cover. Remove the nipple. The valve is a half-turn valve. You must open it a full half turn to get the fluid to come out. At first, the valve is hard to turn a full half turn. Once wet with fluid, it's easy.

Remove the nipple, open and close the valve a half turn a couple of times to loosen it up. No brake fluid will come out until the peddle is depressed. Remove the brake reservoir cap. Make sure the reservoir is full. I added fluid until it almost overflowed. Have a partner depress the peddle and hold to floor. Open the bleeder. It is tight here, cable to transfer case gets in the way. Fluid squirts straight up onto floor pan, all over tranny and drips down your arm and exhaust. Be ready for this. Don't release the clutch peddle from the floor until you reclose the valve fully. If you do, you'll suck in a bunch of air right into the cylinder - requiring alot more bleeding. I bled it about 5 times. Flushed about a quarter of the brake reservoir through. Figured now enough fresh fluid is in the cylinder to have cleaned out the old stuff. Still creaks alittle. Clutch engages smoother now. We'll see what it does when real hot. I'm not sure if the creak is from the cylinder, but feels like it. Creak is less noticable now. I'll do this yearly now. Can't hurt to get new fluid flushed through the cylinder. Thanks for the help.

smokeman

Keep in mind that there is both a clutch master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder. The bleeder valve is on the clutch slave cylinder. As per my previous post, my creaking noise was solved by replacing the clutch master cylinder. If you look under your steering column, you will see that the clutch pedal is attached to an actuator rod, which I believe is part of the clutch master cylinder. Below is the instructions on removing the clutch master cylinder.

1. Pry actuator rod off clutch pedal pin. (Inside cab under steering column.)
2. Remove hose from clutch master cylinder and plug hose to prevent fluid loss.
3. Pull hydraulic line clip and remove line from bottom of clutch master cylinder.
4. Disconnect wiring harness from pedal position switch. (I believe this switch is what forces you to push in the clutch to start the jeep unless in 4-lo.)
5. Turn clutch master cylinder assembly clockwise a quarter turn and remove from brake booster mounting plate.

JerseyMark

smokeman, mine does the creaking sound after driving for a while, about 30 minutes or so. Is that when yours creaked or was it all the time? I am wondering if this is my problem, or if it is the clutch plate or something else.