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Adding DRL to LED headlights?

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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 07:51 AM
  #1  
str8edg's Avatar
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From: Estero Fl
Default Adding DRL to LED headlights?

Rookie here and I have installed my Seward, Nightvision, URB, LED headlights and no issue with the plug and play. I do have a pigtail that could be connected for DRLS to illuminate the top and bottom "ribbon" of the headlight on my 2014 JKU. I bought a Add a Fuse and some 18 gauge wire to complete the project and have some questions:

What spot do I use the Add A Fuse so that the DRLS are operational with the ignition?

How did you create the hole in the TIPM box, burning nail or drill? Then what was used to seal the hole once the wire is through the hole in the TIPM box?

Wiring I use the 18 gauge wire or do I need something thicker? I figure run the wire from drivers side light pigtail with the 18 gauge wire, connect with the passenger side pigtail, then connect to the Add a Fuse wire coming out of the TIPM, sound right? TIA much appreciated!
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 08:55 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by str8edg
Rookie here and I have installed my Seward, Nightvision, URB, LED headlights and no issue with the plug and play. I do have a pigtail that could be connected for DRLS to illuminate the top and bottom "ribbon" of the headlight on my 2014 JKU. I bought a Add a Fuse and some 18 gauge wire to complete the project and have some questions:

What spot do I use the Add A Fuse so that the DRLS are operational with the ignition?

How did you create the hole in the TIPM box, burning nail or drill? Then what was used to seal the hole once the wire is through the hole in the TIPM box?

Wiring I use the 18 gauge wire or do I need something thicker? I figure run the wire from drivers side light pigtail with the 18 gauge wire, connect with the passenger side pigtail, then connect to the Add a Fuse wire coming out of the TIPM, sound right? TIA much appreciated!
This should answer your first two questions...

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...source-191552/

As far as what gauge wire, that is a factor of both draw and length. Without knowing those, I can't recommend anything beyond my standard practices. I use a relay on anything drawing 5 amps or more. I don't on less than 5 amps. If you run the wire as described, the first leg will have the draw of both lights combined so make sure you consider that. Also, if you only know the wattage of the DRLs you can calculate the amps using watts/voltage=amps. Once you know the draw and an estimate of wire length you can use an online calculator for wire gauge. I use this one...

http://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html

Last edited by 14Sport; Feb 24, 2016 at 09:00 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 12:30 PM
  #3  
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From: Atlanta, GA
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Originally Posted by str8edg
Rookie here and I have installed my Seward, Nightvision, URB, LED headlights and no issue with the plug and play. I do have a pigtail that could be connected for DRLS to illuminate the top and bottom "ribbon" of the headlight on my 2014 JKU. I bought a Add a Fuse and some 18 gauge wire to complete the project and have some questions:

What spot do I use the Add A Fuse so that the DRLS are operational with the ignition?

How did you create the hole in the TIPM box, burning nail or drill? Then what was used to seal the hole once the wire is through the hole in the TIPM box?

Wiring I use the 18 gauge wire or do I need something thicker? I figure run the wire from drivers side light pigtail with the 18 gauge wire, connect with the passenger side pigtail, then connect to the Add a Fuse wire coming out of the TIPM, sound right? TIA much appreciated!
not being sarcastic at all but wouldn't it be easier to simply turn the lights on when you start the car instead of re-wiring?
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 01:05 PM
  #4  
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Just tap into your side marker lights. They'll then come on by rolling the headlight switch 1 turn, and they'll stay on when you turn the headlights on all the way. That's what I did.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 02:01 PM
  #5  
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If you pick up an AEV programmer you can turn the DRL feature on without rewiring anything.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 02:34 PM
  #6  
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From: Jacksonville NC
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Originally Posted by phljeeper
If you pick up an AEV programmer you can turn the DRL feature on without rewiring anything.
^^^^^^This

You can also activate the U.K. quick turn directional feature with AEV as well
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 02:56 AM
  #7  
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LED lights do not like the DRL function. they flicker etc. I turned mine off. I now have my front markers as my DRL on bright. Much better. It was just annoying seeing the headlights flicker, and spazz out all the time on DRL.
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Kojack
LED lights do not like the DRL function. they flicker etc. I turned mine off. I now have my front markers as my DRL on bright. Much better. It was just annoying seeing the headlights flicker, and spazz out all the time on DRL.
Agreed they will flicker and witch can be fix with a relay kit .the reason they flicker is because there are running off the high beam circuit at a lower voltage and use pulse signal. best to use relay kit so power is taken from battery and trigard or use as stated aev procal to switch to markers and tie into that or fogs
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:57 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by JeeP_MarK
Agreed they will flicker and witch can be fix with a relay kit .the reason they flicker is because there are running off the high beam circuit at a lower voltage and use pulse signal. best to use relay kit so power is taken from battery and trigard or use as stated aev procal to switch to markers and tie into that or fogs
Even with a relay system mine flickered in DRL. The relay would chatter from the PWM. I just bought the superchips and turned the signal markers into DRL. MUCH BETTER. Plus even if your running Halogen lights, you save on bulbs.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 07:11 AM
  #10  
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You should be using an anti-flicker harness with LED headlights. ( One for each headlight ) If yours did not come with one you could buy them separately. Truck-Lite - Catalog Product : Anti-Flicker (PWM) Adaptor For 2007-2013 Jeep® JK I used the M7 fuse slot which I believe is for a rear power outlet ( which I don't have ) for my DRL. This fuse slot has 2 positions, 1 for ignition switched and 1 for constant on. I drilled a small hole in the plastic fuse box for the #18 wire and sealed it up with silicone.
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