I dropped the auto tranny pan (09 JK) today and used RTV high strength gasket maker. The thing is some of it got onto the tranny inside the pan when I was putting the pan back on. I figured if anyone else used RTV, they'd end up doing the same thing, since there is just no way to fit the pan back on without the rear side touching the inside of the tranny. I'm thinking it will just permanently glue itself there and I'll be fine. Or am I wrong? Anyone with same experience?

 

Not quite sure what I can offer, other than sympathy...

Changed out the valve cover gasket on my wifes car - it called for some RTV around some of the gasket surface.

Within milliseconds of dropping the valve cover and gasket in place, fear set in. "Did I put too much?" "Did it get inside?" "What if I get some floating around up in the valvetrain".

It's been fine for the last 2,000 miles,..

I'd say you're ok. The tranny filter should pick up any loose particles.

 

I think I'll take my chances. I already had to redo the gasket twice yesterday, because the rubber one I used first didn't stay in place when I put the pan back on, and it leaked like mad from the 2 rear corners. Not sure how much the filter can take before it clogs up and doesn't let oil through though...

 

Hey good thread this weekend i am changing my 08 after you put oil in did you start it up right away the reason why I'm asking is because the rtv that I got says I should wait 24 hours.And all the rest of the rtv said about the same thing.

 

its perfectly fine to use rtv on the tranny pan. as a matter of fact the rebuild kits do not contain a gasket. its supposed to be rtv

 

I am actually not sure and was wondering about this myself. If you have patience, I'd let it cure for 24 hours just to be sure. Mine is going to be sitting for much longer than 24 hours because I'm replacing my ball joints and currently have no upper ball joint I actually didn't even put any oil in yet. The pan is dry.

 

Just changed my trans filter and fluid 3k ago.

This is what I use for resealing the pan. Not Cheap, about $20 for a 7oz pressurized can. IMO the best made.



Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker

Return equipment to service immediately when you make leak-proof gaskets in just one minute with the Right Stuff.® This latest elastomeric rubber gasket technology is blowout resistant and outperforms pre-cut gaskets. Specified on production lines by GM, Ford, Chrysler and Mercedes-Benz. Temperature range -75°F to 450°F (-59°C to 232°C) continuous, 500°F (260°C) intermittent.; resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids. Protects against leaks caused by vibration and thermal expansion. Sensor-safe.

Suggested Applications: Automotive and marine gaskets, valve covers, gearbox covers, pumps, compressors, oil pans, thermostat housings, water pumps

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RTV is used for the gasket material for OEM assembly out of the factory. Check out the Project JK web site under Jeep JK Write-ups located in the Operation and Maintenance tab - Jeep JK 42RLE Automatic Transmission Service. Credit to Eddie September 21st, 2009. This is an excellent write up with step by step instructions and photos.

The trick is have a 1/4" drive universal joint identified in steps 3 and 4. This is the most difficult and time consuming task of removing a really difficult bolt. Without this tool you cannot remove the pan.

Also, once you clean the pan, place the RTV as shown in the write up and let is sit and cure according to the RTV directions on product. I recall letting this sit for an hour before reconnecting the pan. During that time I cleaned up the bottom of the autotransmission and replaced the filter. The idea is that you want the RTV to form a gasket and not just squish into and out of the pan. Then when you put the pan back on hand tighten all of the bolts and you can let it sit for even more time, i.e. time, and clean up your mess. If you don't have an epoxy finished floor I would put something down on the concrete. I haven't been able to do this without making a big mess and that is with 2 oil change pans. ATF goes everywhere!

Finally tighten the bolds to 14.5 lbs of torque. Again the idea is to not squish out the RTV. Follow the Write up step by step and you should have fun doing this.

You should be able to drive upon replacing the ATF, but the longer the RTV sits the better the seal.

 

The RTV instructions said to immediately put the pan back on after applying RTV. After an hour you're supposed to tighten down the bolts with a wrench. But anyway, my question was about the affects of RTV when it gets inside the pan.

 

I would agree with your original thought of the RTV gluing itself to the pan. RTV is oil resistant and is designed to not break down or it would not be used as a gasket. I looked at different RTV manufacturer's web sites and most state fully cured to design strengths within 24 to 72 hours. The initial tack free cure time is anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours again dependant on manufacturer. If you had any of it not stick to a metal surface, it would cure and eventually end up in the filter and stick there.

When I pulled the transmission pan on my Jeep, the RTV that was installed at the factory wasn't done perfectly either and had squished into the pan forming a hardened bead edge.

When you do your next ATF change you can see how much of the material actually pushed into the pan area. It is almost impossible to get the pan on straight without it sliding a little bit if you are doing this by yourself.

I wasn't too concerned when I replaced my pan because of the extra RTV that I had to clean off the pan and the bottom of the transmission that was installed at the factory. If the RTV that pushes into the pan area cured okay as installed in the factory, it shouldn't be any different from your experience.