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Auto Trans/TFcase Refill...???

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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by redrunner
Glad to hear the exhaust does not require dropping. There was another thread on this forum indicating someone else found it necessary. Did you have to use a knuckle on a socket to get to the pan bolts?
Well I will say it was definitely a PITA to get the back three bolts but it can be done without dropping the exhaust. I managed to get my 1/4" drive ratchet in between the tranny support and the pan to brake them loose. Then I was able to use a long extension to wind the bolts out. The Socket won't go on straight at this point but you get enough bite to wind them out. I know it can be done since I was able to do it. Just take you time and don't get frustrated.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by derff96963
Well I will say it was definitely a PITA to get the back three bolts but it can be done without dropping the exhaust. I managed to get my 1/4" drive ratchet in between the tranny support and the pan to brake them loose. Then I was able to use a long extension to wind the bolts out. The Socket won't go on straight at this point but you get enough bite to wind them out. I know it can be done since I was able to do it. Just take you time and don't get frustrated.
I also did it twice without dropping the exhaust. i agree, the first time was a PITA as the bolts were way too tight from the factory. The second time required much less struggling with the 1/4 drive knuckle.

I also found it helpful to remove the 3 bolts that secure the tranny to the frame and then lifting the tranny up about 2 in with a jack. This will give you a little more room to work and is easier than dropping the exhaust.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 03:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bostonMA
I also did it twice without dropping the exhaust. i agree, the first time was a PITA as the bolts were way too tight from the factory. The second time required much less struggling with the 1/4 drive knuckle.

I also found it helpful to remove the 3 bolts that secure the tranny to the frame and then lifting the tranny up about 2 in with a jack. This will give you a little more room to work and is easier than dropping the exhaust.

Thanks for both reader's experience with pan removal. Glad to hear it is possible to work it without exhaust removal. Exhaust bolts can definetely have issues on removal as a vehicle ages. Not touching the exhaust coupled with an aftermarket pan drain plug (save on mess) can make it a more tolerable job after the first time.

I ordered my B&M cooler today from Summit Racing. If it arrives in time, I'll install this weekend.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 03:07 PM
  #24  
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i did a tranny fluid change on the side of the road with not very good tools.. (just what I had in my JK) its was a PITA the get the pan down with the exhaust.. for me, only one bolt was very difficult, the rest were fairly easy.. Thankfully, I had a filter and gasket in my JK..

Once I got home, I flushed the system myself by removing the upper tranny cooler line from the cooler, and connecting a rubber hose I had to a drain pan. took 6 gallons to flush the entire tranny system of its old fluid.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 04:30 PM
  #25  
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The transfer case takes 2 quarts of ATF#4 I believe.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #26  
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Just some insight to allow people to not worry about the ATF being hugely important to change at the 30K intervals:

1. In many new GM cars they are going to lifetime ATF. I believe there is still an emergency fill port (in case of transmission problems and the need to refill it after tearing it down) but there are not any normal ATF dipsticks or any service intervals as we know them.

2. I had my last Jeep for 200K miles (actually had the 42RE on the back of the old 4.0 if I remember correctly) and I can only remember ever changing the transmission fluid 2 or 3 times over its lifetime and the transmission ran great til the day I traded it in.

So my advice to people looking at doing the system flush right at 30K miles and not doing things that will get the fluid real hot (wheeling, towing a trailer, or living in a city with real bad traffic) is save yourself $150 for another ~ 20K miles, check your fluid level once in a while to make sure you aren't low, and use the money elsewhere
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by racer83l
Thankfully, I had a filter and gasket in my JK..
What is the filter like.......like somebody else mentioned, is it just a screen that can be cleaned or does it actually need to be replaced...???
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by AK4Dave
What is the filter like.......like somebody else mentioned, is it just a screen that can be cleaned or does it actually need to be replaced...???
It is a fiber filter, similar to the oil. It will run you about $11 at the auto store, a little more at the dealer. I would not bother trying to clean it.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AK4Dave
What is the filter like.......like somebody else mentioned, is it just a screen that can be cleaned or does it actually need to be replaced...???
Here is a pic of the filter. It's replaceable, not cleanable.

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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 04:33 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Gi Joe
The transfer case takes 2 quarts of ATF#4 I believe.
yup, 2qts ATF+4 in the transfer case, spot on.
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