bad brakes....defect...low gas mileage
Could we just take a laser thermometer, drive around the block a few times slowing down and speeding up with out hitting the brakes and checking the temps of the rotors? This should be good indicator of uneven brake resistance. Drive around the block using the brakes , I would expect the front calipers to be hotter.?
The ESP applies braking during normal driving? Is this why i decelerate so quickly without braking. 2012 Rubi with 4.10 auto: I thought this was tranny downshifting> I'll have to watch the tach.
The ESP applies braking during normal driving? Is this why i decelerate so quickly without braking. 2012 Rubi with 4.10 auto: I thought this was tranny downshifting> I'll have to watch the tach.
ESP won't apply during normal driving. You'll hear a blender-like noise kick in under the hood when ESP engages. Its the same mechanism as ABS. You'll also notice a distinct drop off in gas-pedal response until you're clear of the situation that engaged ESP.
Did you have to replace the caliper, or did you rebuild it? If so, did you do it yourself? What parts were needed? I have a frozen left rear caliper, and I was wondering if I could just replace the slider pins, or if I need a whole new caliper. I intend to do it myself. Thanks.
In my case, I ended up just replacing the whole caliper.
It was the calipers piston that was hanging up on me. I had tried to free it up myself by removing the rubber seal, lubing it, and working the piston back and forth with the brake pedal and a C-clamp - but it just didn't work. My brake would still drag and heat up.
I don't remember if the new caliper came with pins or not... Since I don't remember, I don't think I had to do anything fancy.
The caliper was surprisingly cheap - It was somewhere under $50 at a local dealer. I want to say it was like $44, and I don't think there was any core charge.
It was the calipers piston that was hanging up on me. I had tried to free it up myself by removing the rubber seal, lubing it, and working the piston back and forth with the brake pedal and a C-clamp - but it just didn't work. My brake would still drag and heat up.
I don't remember if the new caliper came with pins or not... Since I don't remember, I don't think I had to do anything fancy.
The caliper was surprisingly cheap - It was somewhere under $50 at a local dealer. I want to say it was like $44, and I don't think there was any core charge.
100,000 miles. Just changed all 4 brakes and rotors. Only did 1 pad change since new. My front rotors were warped. But the rear rotors probably could have been turned down. I figured that sense i'll be keeping her for another 100k, I'll just give her another set of shoes.
Does your JK have Hill Start Assist (HSA)? If it does, the owner's manual will tell you.
My '11 did the same thing until I turned HSA off (also in the book). Others here on the forum have had the same experience.
My '11 did the same thing until I turned HSA off (also in the book). Others here on the forum have had the same experience.
Thanks for your quick response. I'll probably replace the whole caliper rather than mess with it.
In my case, I ended up just replacing the whole caliper.
It was the calipers piston that was hanging up on me. I had tried to free it up myself by removing the rubber seal, lubing it, and working the piston back and forth with the brake pedal and a C-clamp - but it just didn't work. My brake would still drag and heat up.
I don't remember if the new caliper came with pins or not... Since I don't remember, I don't think I had to do anything fancy.
The caliper was surprisingly cheap - It was somewhere under $50 at a local dealer. I want to say it was like $44, and I don't think there was any core charge.
It was the calipers piston that was hanging up on me. I had tried to free it up myself by removing the rubber seal, lubing it, and working the piston back and forth with the brake pedal and a C-clamp - but it just didn't work. My brake would still drag and heat up.
I don't remember if the new caliper came with pins or not... Since I don't remember, I don't think I had to do anything fancy.
The caliper was surprisingly cheap - It was somewhere under $50 at a local dealer. I want to say it was like $44, and I don't think there was any core charge.
My front driver side caliper had to be replaced after 40k miles. It was rusted and sticking. Nothing would break the rust. At times it felt like my jeep was limping along. I also replaced the front brakes and rotors at this time.
Now my breaking is smooth and I'm gliding in neutral again.
Now my breaking is smooth and I'm gliding in neutral again.



Good luck with things!