CherWrang

? Has anyone gaped their spark plugs to 0.65 for the 3.8L and noticed improved performance in the lower rpm range using the stock coil n wires. Stock engine setup n using Flashpaq 87octane setting.

sbdrumr

I agree, why would you use anything else? All these freaking gimmick plugs and wires scamming the shorts off all you would be mechanics. Hahahaha

jeepdogjk

​​​​​​I put E3 plugs in my first jk I got great fuel mileage. I'll be putting them in my current jk soon​​​​​

Rednroll

I read all that stuff prior to changing mine. The only challenging one was the rear passenger plug, but with a ratchet, short extension, and universal swivel I didn't find it all that difficult.

Definitely not worth pulling the fender liner out over.

If you want all kinds of room to work, pull your battery tray out.

I had my battery tray and fender liner out while I was replacing my EGR valve, and I had daylight for days to access all the passenger side plugs with no universal swivel needed. Too bad I didn't have any new plugs on me, I would have changed them if I had.

karls10jk

Was there a link somewhere of the actual resistance of new plug wires? I checked a couple of mine and I'm not certain they're within where they should be.....and they're certainly due for replacement- Manual calls for 102k mile changes....it's been 180k miles now.

Rednroll

I measured the resistance of old vs new when I changed mine at 100K miles. Problem is I don't remember what I did with that data. I had a notebook which I usually write stuff like this down in which I believe got destroyed over the winter when it fell on the floor and water came into the garage. Typically, I transfer those notes into an excel file....but can't remember if I did that or not, but I will check and post if I find. I may have posted it in a discussion thread as well, but it's been 50K miles since then, so it's been a couple years.

RoubsX2

Quick Tip On a 3.8: Maybe reposted, but I found an easier way to access the passenger side plugs by removing the air intake assembly canister and rubber hose up to the throttle body. You will basically have a straight shot for your arm (from the front) with lots of room to use a ratchet and an extension without the need of a universal joint. Use a magnetic plug socket to make plugs 1, 3 and the dreaded 5 in the back even easier...piece of cake yesterday. Put some silicone grease (aka dielectric grease) on the 3 plastic peg fasteners on the bottom of the air box before reattaching to make removal easier next time.

Tracy Wager

[QUOTE=Fonly;2622612]I've had horrible luck with my jeep, both fixing and mpg,

After replacing:

Spark plugs
Alternator
Starter
oil change
fluid flush
diff oils
Clutch assembly
bearing
Rotor
all break pads
Caliper
power steering pump
an alignment
and finally 10 wheel studs (this all a few months from the dealership, was second hand)


I still sit at 15.5 mpg in the city and 17 mpg on highway

6k$ into this thing and its sat for 4 months in total, but everything replaced now and I can finally get to have some fun out of it.

Plugs were just done at 152K...[/QUOTE

I pray for 15.5 in the city. JKU I know, but my 2014 stocker is getting 11mpg. A Tank over all is usually under 14mpg. About to get a different one. Can’t possibly lift or get bigger tires at that mpg. Won’t be able to get to the next gas station.

karls10jk

If you're getting 11-14mpg then there's something wrong with the machine. Have you checked that the air filter isn't completely blocked and that your cats aren't plugged and simply pouring fuel into the cylinders? I don't get that kind of mileage on the older motor with large tires and excess weight.