Check engine code
I think you likely need to replace the EGR valve. You need to remove a total of 4 bolts to replace it, but the 2 that fasten the EGR to the back of the engine block are not that simple.
Here's a video.....chances are, it looks simpler than it is, especially if you have an automatic trans.
Here's a video.....chances are, it looks simpler than it is, especially if you have an automatic trans.
Last edited by Rednroll; Nov 25, 2019 at 04:03 PM.
I think you likely need to replace the EGR valve. You need to remove a total of 4 bolts to replace it, but the 2 that fasten the EGR to the back of the engine block are not that simple.
Here's a video.....chances are, it looks simpler than it is, especially if you have an automatic trans.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dONg5uMocA
Here's a video.....chances are, it looks simpler than it is, especially if you have an automatic trans.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dONg5uMocA
I recommend going with a good brand replacement. Most recommend either Mopar, Napa, or Wells brands. Dorman's seem to fail within a year, so avoid that one. Also when you get it replaced, most recommend using some anti-seize on the bolts. That's one of the reasons it tends to be so difficult getting those rear bolts out. Not only are they in a tight location, which is difficult to get a wrench on, but since they're an exhaust part, the bolts tend to seize up. I tried to get mine off, couldn't get the furthest bolt loose. I then took it to 2 different shops and they couldn't get it either. I ended up taking a dremel and cutting the EGR off of that bolt which then gave me some room to get a pair of vise grips on the bolt to finally remove it.
Yep, part of those emissions/better gas mileage systems. Not an immediate replacement need, you may notice some hesitation, rough idle situations and lower gas mileage until you get it replaced.
I recommend going with a good brand replacement. Most recommend either Mopar, Napa, or Wells brands. Dorman's seem to fail within a year, so avoid that one. Also when you get it replaced, most recommend using some anti-seize on the bolts. That's one of the reasons it tends to be so difficult getting those rear bolts out. Not only are they in a tight location, which is difficult to get a wrench on, but since they're an exhaust part, the bolts tend to seize up. I tried to get mine off, couldn't get the furthest bolt loose. I then took it to 2 different shops and they couldn't get it either. I ended up taking a dremel and cutting the EGR off of that bolt which then gave me some room to get a pair of vise grips on the bolt to finally remove it.
I recommend going with a good brand replacement. Most recommend either Mopar, Napa, or Wells brands. Dorman's seem to fail within a year, so avoid that one. Also when you get it replaced, most recommend using some anti-seize on the bolts. That's one of the reasons it tends to be so difficult getting those rear bolts out. Not only are they in a tight location, which is difficult to get a wrench on, but since they're an exhaust part, the bolts tend to seize up. I tried to get mine off, couldn't get the furthest bolt loose. I then took it to 2 different shops and they couldn't get it either. I ended up taking a dremel and cutting the EGR off of that bolt which then gave me some room to get a pair of vise grips on the bolt to finally remove it.
Some of the kits come with new bolts. I think it was my Napa one that did. I also bought a carquest brand (Napa didn't fail but I needed gaskets and it was the cheapest/ fastest way to get gaskets on a Sunday) and I don't believe it came with the bolts.
If you have extra bolts, I'd recommend making one into a makeshift tap and cleaning the holes up before putting in the new bolts.
If you have extra bolts, I'd recommend making one into a makeshift tap and cleaning the holes up before putting in the new bolts.
I got the Wells on Amazon but it looks like it is not currently in stock.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081SRZVU...v_ov_lig_dp_it
Check Ebay.
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It will come back. My understanding of how these things work is that they start to become sticky/carboned up. When the engine sends the electrical signal to the EGR to open, it will stick (not open) and set the code, then some time down the road it will start to function again (reset the code), but as carbon continues to build up the sticking will get more frequent.



